5.0 Rebuild

Hello,

First time poster and excited to be here.

Picked up my first Mustang - 1990 5.0 with a 5 speed a few months ago. It appears to be a 7up edition but have not verified this. So I've only drove it about 45 minutes home after the initial purchase and then around the block a couple times. After parking it I found a decent amount of oil leaking onto the ground, and most of the engine, trans, underbody seems to be saturated. With winter now set in here in Michigan I figured this is the time to tear into it.

So upon pulling the motor I've found the valve cover bolts to be finger tight lol. Assuming this was the source it since oil was caked all over the engine bay. I've picked up some Explorer parts including upper/lower intake and GT40P heads. I mocked up a set of BBK shorty equal length headers and they may work with 90 degree boots. I also have a B303 cam, 24lb injectors w/ calibrated MAF on the shelf. I have read the A9L ECU can handle these sort of changes, I hope this is true. Just going for a close to stock or mild build.

So today I disassembled the GT40P heads. Need to extract the broken intake bolt I found. But other than that, the disassembly went well. I tried cutting a deep well socket and using my drill press to remove the valve springs. Definitely paid off. I do have the hand crank spring compressor tool and after doing 1 spring by hand I'll go witht eh socket/drill press method from here on out!

I'll attach some photos of the car/engine/heads. I did a dry and wet compression test and then a leak down at 100psi. I'll attach those notes as well. Figure the results weren't horrible and the car was running fine, but any opinions on the results or anything else is this build are welcomed! Would hate to miss some simple stuff while I'm this far in.

TIA
Jake
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Looks like a really clean car. Are you going to change all the gaskets on the engine while it's out. I'd do a rear main seal, a nice one piece oil pan gasket, front seal, etc.

Kurt
 
Timing chain, new oil pump with pickup and hardened ARP oil pump drive shaft. What are your plans on the GT40 heads? At a minimum you will need some decent springs for the cam. If you have not already thought of this then these are probably the most common setup for a stock iron head:

 
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Man what a nice car,the interior is in great shape,body is straight and the paint looks good too, for what i assume (by your location) is a northern car it must have been garaged most of its life cause it still has its body,lol, what a fantastic winter project.

I used to have one of those hoods on my 91 but mine didn't have the grilled inserts, not sure why i got rid of it but its been a couple of decades,
i wish you lots of fun with the car and the guys here are top notch when it comes to knowledge, they got you covered.
 
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This is just for reference and includes my current list of off-the-shelf cams for GT40P upgrades.

I included the B-303 in the last line just as a reference to the others.

Oh, and I assumed a 3:55 rear end gear (N/A setups respond very well to this).

302 / GT40P Street Cam Reference Table

CamshaftDuration @ .050"Valve Lift (Int/Exh)Recommended Springs (GT40P-friendly)
Trick Flow Stage 1 (TFS-51402000)221° / 225°.499" / .510"Comp GT40/P spring kit or Alex’s Parts Max Output II
Comp XE264HR (35-349-8)212° / 218°.512" / .512"Alex’s Parts Max Output II kit
Lunati Voodoo 20350711221° / 229°.549" / .565"Lunati LT73100K2 or LT74820K1 spring kits
AFM N-41~222° / ~232°~.512" / ~.512"Alex’s Parts Max Output II (for lift margin)
Ford E-303 (M-6250-E303)220° / 220°.498" / .498"Comp GT40/P spring kit or Alex’s Parts Max Output II
Ford B-303 (M-6250-B303)224° / 224°.480" / .480"Comp GT40/P spring kit (easy clearance)

Notes (Important for a GT40P + 3.55 build)


1 “Best match” for your combo?
With 3.55 gears, long-tubes, and GT40P heads:
Trick Flow Stage 1 or Comp XE264HR will feel perfect on the street — fat torque, EFI friendly, no drama.


2 Lift limits on P-heads:
Above ~.510" lift, check retainer/guide clearance.
The Lunati cam is a monster, but you’re into “measure everything” territory.


3 B-303 vs modern grinds:
The B-303 is useful as a comparison point — but the newer profiles absolutely walk it in torque and drivability.


4 Idle personality ranking (mild → rowdy):
XE264HR → E-303 → TFS1 → B-303 → N-41 → Lunati
- The last two generally require a tune.
- None of these setups require 24 lb injectors so, save yourself some money. Even if you have them, it will run better on 19s without a tune.
- If you add boost later, you'll likely need some #42+ injectors.