i found 2 problems...

MI95Cobra

New Member
Aug 20, 2006
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Oklahoma City
i've been trying to get my car started for the past few weeks with no success...well i took the valve covers off to soo if i tightened the valves to tight...i noticed something...no oil....anywhere...it was dry....so then the first problem...i have a problem with the oil pump and probably the shaft and also the pickup...then the 2nd problem.....my distributor is messed up...i figure i might as well rebuild my motor all at 1 time....so should i go ahead and get aluminum heads and new carnk...or should i just fix it and go on down the road???
 
Wes im gonna have to disagree on ya about the high flow oil pump... for 20 dollars more u can get 2 the amout of flow... the dist. i would just leave the stock in some people feal it does a better job then the MSD unit... also dont forget with the high flow oil pump they recommend a hardned shaft like an ARP

-colby
 
Wes im gonna have to disagree on ya about the high flow oil pump... for 20 dollars more u can get 2 the amout of flow... the dist. i would just leave the stock in some people feal it does a better job then the MSD unit... also dont forget with the high flow oil pump they recommend a hardned shaft like an ARP

-colby

I don't want to disagree :nono:
but
Share a thought or two :)

We sometimes try and use principles of Race Car applications on
Street Car applications and that does not always work like it
would seem to at first thought.

When building a race only motor you don't consider the ability to
go for 100k miles, provide quiet operation, yada yada yada.

That allows you to build the motor loose for less friction and more hp.

The mains, rods, and the like will not only flow more oil, but flow more
of it at a quicker rate. The high volume or pressure pump is needed
for a sufficient supply.

Now ... Lets shift our focus to Street Cars :)

A big pump on the more tightly built oem motor has been known to
wash out the bearings from time to time

and

The fact it has to work so hard to force the supply against the tighter
clearances has been known to actually sap a bit of hp.

Just wanted to point out that some of the time .........
More of something is not always a benefit

Grady
 
It sounds like the oil pump locked up. One way to know for sure is to pull the distributer cap and have some one turn the engine over. If the rotor button doesn't turn what happened is the oil pump locked up shearing the roll pin in the distributor gear and probably twisting the oil pump drive shaft. Any kind of trash could possibly cause this to happen. If the rotor button does turn but there is no oil pressure it could have twisted the driveshaft and broke it but the engine would still crank and run without oil pressure if that was the case.

I agree completly with grady on the high volume oil pump. He gave very good reasons as to why you wouldn't need one. There is also the possibility that the stock oil pan would not hold as much oil as the pump is capable of pumping. Pumping the pan dry causing you to lose oil pressure. I've helped a friend that this happened to with a chevy engine. I would just have the crank and cylinder walls checked to see if there is evan enough wear to justify turning the crank and and doing any more than honing the cylinder walls and installing new rings, bearings and gaskets. Unless you just want to bore the engine and install forged pistons.
 
I guess I could share a deal we did when we were high schoolers :shrug:

We would put a washer or two next to the spring :D

We could get a little more pressure :nice:
but
Not near as much as a purpose built pump ;)

Yes ... I've heard about Chevys pumping the pan dry like that
but
Don't think I've heard about that with SBF's :scratch: :shrug:

But .. that don't mean it could not happen :D

Grady
 
what happens if you put a drill on the oil pump drive shaft and turn the drill on? does the oil pump? it might be that the dizzy wasn't properly attached to the drive shafft. i assume you didn't drive the car with no oil? if not, y
 
if my oil pump was out...it had just done it before i decided to tear down my motor...it was probably a good thing i did...otherwise iit would of caused alot of problems....alot.....also whats the best and easiest way to replace the oip pump...take out the motor or the cross member???