I gotta job!!!What are these mods gonna do?

[Mustangless]

Theres something wrong with your car. A Stock AODE basically gets those times ~ 89mph. With a converter and gears you should be low 14's already....
Does your car run well? Try cleaning the MAFs.

lol, that was the same thing I was thinking. I wouldn't think it being hot would be that big of a problem. If you have a 3k stall and 4.10s and did not spin or get a good 60' then something sounds wrong.

 

[CManT1914]

I wouldn't spend the money on an MAF unless you are going full HCI or a power adder. You're stock MAF is good until 270ish RWHP which you won't be very close to. And by the time you are making enough power for another MAF, you'll be making enough power for bigger injectors, so I would get the MAF and injectors together, calibrated correctly.

Hold on Adam, the stock maf is capable of making more power than that actually. Look at Grady, he made 293rwhp with the stock maf, throttle body and catback.

You should be trapping lower then that. I would do a complete tune up before I started any more mods. Especially O2s... why does everyone forget these? Any part heat cycled thousands of times over 10 years is gonna take a dump and is not working as good as it used to be, i'll put money on it. And at WOT when dragging its the most important sensor!

The last time I checked, the O2's are ignored under WOT, and the maf is what the computer primarily reads. The O2's are for just cruising around.

In terms of how the poster writes... no its not easy to read but blasting the guy for it solves nothing and contributes nothing to the post. Ask him to articulate better and we will be able to answer his questions better. Calling his question incoherent and rambling does nothing except excite animosity. It's even more useless then popping the owned flag on a tech thread.

Adam

 

[Black95GTS]

Hold on Adam, the stock maf is capable of making more power than that actually. Look at Grady, he made 293rwhp with the stock maf, throttle body and catback.

The last time I checked, the O2's are ignored under WOT, and the maf is what the computer primarily reads. The O2's are for just cruising around.

Perhaps I got O2s and MAF confused for WOT... but replace them anyway! And clean the MAF. Yeah now that I think about it, you're right. I'm an idiot. Now is the right time for the

But I AM right about the MAF thing. Grady got to the 293 value by fudging the max voltage with a TwEECer. Without adding almost a quarter volt, I'd say 270ish is where I'd start looking to upgrade. I'm also a big fan of "big" parts, IE what lots of people consider too big TBs, MAFs, injectors, etc. But he asked for advice, so there it is!

Adam

 

[CManT1914]

Perhaps I got O2s and MAF confused for WOT... but replace them anyway! And clean the MAF. Yeah now that I think about it, you're right. I'm an idiot. Now is the right time for the

lol, that's all right. I had to actually reread what you wrote, then sit and think about it for a minute (I thought maybe I was wrong).

But I AM right about the MAF thing. Grady got to the 293 value by fudging the max voltage with a TwEECer. Without adding almost a quarter volt, I'd say 270ish is where I'd start looking to upgrade. I'm also a big fan of "big" parts, IE what lots of people consider too big TBs, MAFs, injectors, etc. But he asked for advice, so there it is!

Adam

Yea, the only reason Grady got those numbers is because of his twEECer and his ability to tune his car. Without that, you're probably right, I don't think he would see that close to 300.

 

[final5-0]

A colorful post for sure and it seems like everybody has tanked up on something like Jolt, Red Bull, or 15 cups of coffee, lol.

I read his post several times and I see two things.

1) He says he doesn't have enough power
2) He lists these parts:
Cat mid pipe
TB
Maf
Intake
Nitto DR's
2nd set of headers
2nd catback

Here is what I'd do if you really want more power and your goal is 300rwhp or better AND you want to go all the way with all the supporting parts.

Forget all the piddley stuff that won't give you hardley anything except an empty wallet. I'm talkin stuff like tb, maf, etc.

You already got headers and a catback.

As a matter of fact ..............................

I'd forget all the parts listed above and get yourself a nice set of good flowing Aluminum heads and a cam that will be correct for your long term goal.

If your not careful ...... you can spend very large sums of money on bolt on stuff but your car is not much quicker

Do the big ticket, hard work things first.

Then you're all set to bolt the small stuff on as money allows and each time you do ...... you will feel something happening.

Just like a house ...... build your foundation

Grady

 

[Blackened302]

I'd forget all the parts listed above and get yourself a nice set of good flowing Aluminum heads and a cam that will be correct for your long term goal.

If your not careful ...... you can spend very large sums of money on bolt on stuff but your car is not much quicker

Do the big ticket, hard work things first.

Then you're all set to bolt the small stuff on as money allows and each time you do ...... will feel something happening.

Just like a house ...... build your foundation

Grady

well said. the h/c/i is what's gonna give you significant gains (aside a turbo, s/c, or n2o). even if you don't get them in right away, that is what is gonna get you to where you want to be, and you'll at least have the parts already.

 

[cyberwolf1986]

I would do the Heads and Cam, but i dont want anything
to go wrong because i dont have that much money incase something goes wrong. I rather put on the little stuff becuase they are cheap and give you significant gains and be relatively cheap. I know i really dont need a maf or a tb, but i would say gains wouldnt I.I just tuned it up, but i have 70,000 miles on it. I dont know what parts need to change like o2 or something. The engine has some issuses like a leak or a bad coil, but im gonna get all that fixed right before the summer begins. I rather put on the little stuff becuase they are cheap and give you significant gains and be relatively cheap. If i do plan on doing the head i want to go with the Twisted wedge system, but I wouldnt konw any place to take it to install.I took my gears to Speed Inc in Schaumberg,Il they are a really good shop, but they do mostly Camaros so i dont know if its a good idea. I still want my car to be a decent daily summer time car to drive without a wacky idle or so fast where i cant even punch it in the street. And at the track i didnt spin my tires wen i took off. The best 60' was a 2.19, but wen i'am on the street the car just goes sideways.

 

[a50sn95]

I agree with Grady. Save for some BIG improvements. Also, Screw the Catted H. Get an off-road H. Yeah, I know I'm being irresponsible by saying that, but a Catted H is NOT legal in California. A big waste of money here, if you think you are going to pass smog. (Some people do, but technically you have to have all 4 cats on the car).
If your stock H pipe is fine, and you're running shortys, just put it away in a nice safe place and swap it out when you have to pass a smog.
Thats a 3-400 dollar savings right there....

 

[Methodical]

Hold on Adam, the stock maf is capable of making more power than that actually. Look at Grady, he made 293rwhp with the stock maf, throttle body and catback.

AND A REEEEALLY GOOOOOOOD TUNE USING THE TWEECER

The last time I checked, the O2's are ignored under WOT, and the maf is what the computer primarily reads. The O2's are for just cruising around.

You are correct on the O2s. I learned this when I began tuning my car with the TwEECer.

By the way I understood exactly where the original poster was coming from. I can't help too much with a piecemeal build up as I just saved and did a complete motor build up (bottom to top) and the H/C/I with parts already in mind - Of course after do my research. However, I did piecemeal the supporting foundation over time before my rebuild, such as exhaust, subframe, gears etc. Evaluate these guys suggestions and take it from there.

The first parts I purchased was the entire exhaust from the header on back with offroad H pipe (I wanted the classic mustang sound), then the gears. Then I tightened things up with the strut tower brace and subframe connectors and then purchased the MAF, TB and pullies. But I have the Cobra which already had the intake and heads which were good at the time for me.

Take your time before tossing out your cheddar.

Peace
Al

 

[a50sn95]

Take your time before tossing out your cheddar.

:Word: