I have got to be the smartest person ever....

[Quikstang]

So i got my brand new Micky T's today, and figured I would play around with them outside the hood and see how well they hook... Well lets just say, I got more than i bargained for. Car was running real strong, so i decided to go back a little farther.. Did a HUGE MONSTER burnout got them nice and sticky, I am like what the F.. I will just dump it at like 3500 if it spins it spins.... Well the car def did not spin...absolutely DEAD HOOKED on the street, I just hit first gear pretty good, and loved ever bit... I went back to the house, pull in my garage and Low and behold... I snapped off TWO of my Freakin Lugs... WTF!!! is my car haunted or what... So now, I cant even go to FFW if i wanted to... I am going to check it again, I may limp her to the show at hooters friday, as its about 3 miles and I can go pretty slow.. But man.. that fuggin sux!!!

then again.. i guess its better than bustin a whole axle though.. Lol... ;-)

Corey

 

[Turkey Sammich]

Eh, sounds like fun, sucks to hear about the damage though.

 

[BOWTIEKILLR]

damn dude that sucks but at least you could drive on it. when it happened to my buddy the wheel basically fell off. you could totally get a new axle by this weekend, both 4 or 5 lug. just hit up the local pick-n-pull and get one for $15.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

if you just snapped the lug off you can go to the parts store and buy new lugs, hammer the old ones out, put the new ones in and your good. when i did it i had to take apart some of the rear brakes to get the old one out but since yours is snapped it it should be ok

 

[795.0pacecar]

I snapped off a couple lugs once. It took my maybe 30 minutes to put new ones in, its really no big deal. Just get some new ones from the parts store.

 

[795.0pacecar]

Double post.

 

[Quikstang]

Yea, I got the car up on stands in the garage now. I will finish the deal tommorow afternoon or friday morning. I was lookin for an excuse to convert to 5 lug, but not two days before the race.. lol.... dumb luck i guess... Now that I think of it, I am glad it only snapped two, or I'd been Screwed!!! I imagine if the wheel came all the way off, i would have had some real damage....

 

[Darkwriter77]

Like stated, lug studs are dirt cheap. You're looking at less than $10 in parts, and maybe 30 minutes of your own time.

Remove the wheel, use a hammer and a punch to knock out the old broken studs. Poke the new stud in from behind, and try to keep it as straight as possible. Use an open-ended acorn lugnut, but put it on BACKWARDS (with the beveled side out), spin it down, and then tighten the lugnut as much as it will go (within reason). This will suck the lug stud down snug and straight into place, sort of like a ghetto machine press. DO NOT just try to hammer the sucker into place, you'll only booger up the axle.

Had to do this to a lug stud that broke off my prior notch. It was a Missouri car, and the lug studs were so rusted that in trying to remove the lug nuts from it for the first time, one of 'em just snapped right off. A new lug stud runs about $2 apiece from Autozone. It'd be a good idea to tap out the old one and bring it in with you (along with an extra lugnut) when you go to pick up the new studs, because sometimes those lug nuts and lug studs get all mixed around in those pull-out boxes/drawers, and the parts counter guys usually won't know the difference. Make sure the knurl is the same depth and diameter - I dunno the exact specs on knurl or length, but the thread should be 1/2"-RH.

 

[NKau]

BUY HARDENED STUDS.....do not just replace them with parts store pieces. You can get the ARP studs almost anywhere.

 

[Quikstang]

Hey guys.. I fooled around with it for a while today, and another of the studs broke off when I was taking it off, Turns out the part on the inside of th drum is pushed out, so I cant get the drum off.>> i have tried everything... Un did the brake line, then popped out the plug on the dust sheild to rotate the adjuster to release the brakes, but I think it went the wrong way... It only will go one way, and it seems to be the wrong way, cause the drum is more snug than it was before... Is there a trick or something I am missing? I really NEVER do brakes, as that is really the only part of the car you truly need.. I leave it to the pro's, but i cant even drive it to a shop with one stud.... Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks..

Corey

 

[Aliate X]

lol, I borrowed my friends MT ET radials at the track on ponys, as soon as I got home I ordered some for my ponies. I never knew what "hooking" felt like until I tried those. I thought nittos "hooked" lol.

 

[woodyy24]

big ass hammer, some penetrating oil and some elbow grease. itll come off.
and why would you disconnect the line?

 

[Quikstang]

"Chiltons Manual"... hahaha.. i guess they think that will get the shoes to release easier... lol... I was kind of afraid to beat them too hard, Like I said.. I dont know much about brakes... My baby gets up and going pretty fast.. So I dont want no questions about if it will stop or not.. Lol... Is there anything I can mess up by just using penetrating grease and prying the hell out of it.. i assume I am probably going to replace the shoes and such while i have it apart..

 

[mustangjoe87]

Take a propane torch and heat the drum near the hub. This will expand the drum a bit, than take a hammer and hit it till it breaks loose. Dont forget to wear gloves, good luck.

 

[Quikstang]

haha, I was just thinking, "wow.. all this advise, I will do it all, penetrating oil, and the prop. torch... " Lol.. might be a bit flamable. I have a torch in the garage, so I will def try that first... Hopefully it will work.. Thanks for all the advise guys...

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

pound the **** out of it with a hammer (the drum). the adjuster should only go one way, but if i remember right (been awhile since i did brakes) you have to lift a little "lever" thing that the piece that you spin ratchets on (did that make sence) or else you will tighten it, its like a release

 

[Quikstang]

Yea, that makes since. i remember there being a release, but cant remember exactly where it was at. Especially since the drum is not off, I have to go in from the back using that little access whole thats plugged off... this fuggin sux!!! I have a day ahead of me tommorow, good thing I am off... why is it the stuff thats supposed to be easy ends up taking all day long... lol....

 

[Darkwriter77]

PB Blaster = teh ****zot.

You'll be a lot safer using the torch/hammer/penetrating oil combo if you're using PB Blaster instead of WD-40. It's got a lot higher flashpoint to it. Heating the rusted/corroded part and then spraying it with the lube helps suck the oil in. You wind up getting a little pattern going ... heat, spray, hammer ... heat, spray, hammer ... and inevitably, it breaks loose. That, or you smash or burn your fingers at one point, get mad, and quit for awhile (or maybe that only happens to me).

Yeah, on second thought, I'd second the recommendation to get hardened studs, considering your setup. If you were running a stock H/C/I car, I wouldn't mess with anything more than OEM replacement lug studs, but with what you've got, and hooking with good tires ... yeah, you'll want 'em for sure. Nevertheless, the install procedure's the same.

 

[87_stang]

On the part you are turning to adlust the brakes, feel around it and the small part you need to pull on to release it should be touching it. It is set up so it turns one way and catches the little grooves and keep it from turning back. Just feel around it w/ your finger, you will find it.

 

[87_stang]

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/89378_brakes_technical_info/photo_13.html
Got to this link and look at the pic of the drum brake setup. On the very bottom you will see where it says "adjusting screw", now look just above where it is pointing to and you will see a metal piece coming down to it that has a cable and a spring going to the top of it. No see where this piece is touching the adjusting screw and pull it straight back towards you, only a little and you will now be able to turn the adjusting screw the other way and realease the pressure from the pads. Good luck and hop this helps a little.
Brandon