I keep on shearing off studs any help?

pony502 · Aug 31, 2009

Sorry they weren't grade 5 they were grade 8. And 316 L is a type of hardness rating for stainless, They were just bolts and the part # would be a 1/2-20 X 1 1/2" bolt mine thread in not press in. How is it I see people with narrowed rear ends and a 15" wide slick driving around town not shearing studs. If your paying for this one I'll put another Detroit locker in. For now I'll work with what I got and try some ARP studs and maybe i'll be barrel rollin down the highway soon to put and end to my misery.

LarsD · Aug 31, 2009

It's likely that your Nitto's are actually grabbing better on the street then those that are running slicks. If you take a look at your buddies tires you'll likely see that they have a bunch of pieces of gravel/rocks stuck in them which will scrub off traction when turning. However you have all those little grooves and such that channel off debris, and allow you to stick better.

90lxcoupe · Aug 31, 2009

pony502 said:
Sorry they weren't grade 5 they were grade 8. And 316 L is a type of hardness rating for stainless, They were just bolts and the part # would be a 1/2-20 X 1 1/2" bolt mine thread in not press in. How is it I see people with narrowed rear ends and a 15" wide slick driving around town not shearing studs. If your paying for this one I'll put another Detroit locker in. For now I'll work with what I got and try some ARP studs and maybe i'll be barrel rollin down the highway soon to put and end to my misery.

Listen up, people on here are giving you sound advice, and your being a dick in return. Pull your head out of your arse and open your ears...

To answer your question about the guys with 15" wide slicks driving on the street... well im just guessing that the badass pro street dudes you see doing this dont drive the car for more than 20 minutes at a time and this could have something to do with it.

Just because you had something "professionally installed" dosent mean it was done correct... Alot of guys in shops get paid rate wages. So the faster they get your carr off the lift the more money they make.

Ive been running on my eaton posi for the past 3 years with no problems, never burnt one up still leaves 2 thick black marks... and i havent been nice to it. And guess what, i installed it myself, and it probly too me 3x as long as the "pro" to do it, but i have the peace of mind knowing that i did it right, the backlash is good, and so is the wear pattern on the gears. Theres a ton of guys that run this same setup in way higher HP cars than mine with no problems... so theres a problem somewhere in your setup unless your making 1200 rwhp that none of us know about

poulrais · Aug 31, 2009

I'm presently running a Detroit locker on the street and I don't like it a lot... It's very hard to corner the car smoothly because it engages and disengages very harshly and this can get you in a lot of trouble in a curve. Anyway, I'll probably get rid of it for an Eaton since I want to go lapping and that's a no no with a Detroit locker. All this said, I don't think your spool is the reason for your broken studs either but if you ride a lot on the street you should at least get a Detroit locker before you get yourself into trouble, especially if you get caught in the rain.

white 89 GT · Aug 31, 2009

So you have broken studs three times in two summers and had the wheels for 8 years, seems to me you most likely put a spool in your car two summers ago.
What does your car run? do you need a spool in a weak arsed 8.8 4 lug rearend? The stocker is good for 1.4 60 ft. ten second runs.

pony502 · Sep 1, 2009

Well I guess down the road when I get the money I'll cough it up for an Eaton but for now the new lug nuts, checking the torque regularly and ARP studs will have to do it. By the way the car is only driven about 1500-200 miles a year which is probably why this hasn't happened more. Oh yeah and isn't it possible that the drivers side wheel is more likely to lossen and the pass side is going to try and tighten itself?

90lxcoupe · Sep 1, 2009

pony502 said:
Well I guess down the road when I get the money I'll cough it up for an Eaton but for now the new lug nuts, checking the torque regularly and ARP studs will have to do it. By the way the car is only driven about 1500-200 miles a year which is probably why this hasn't happened more. Oh yeah and isn't it possible that the drivers side wheel is more likely to lossen and the pass side is going to try and tighten itself?

at least you have c-clip eliminators so if you do break an axle it will stay in the rearend, my uncle had on old chevy van with a welded carrier and he was turning into a parking lot and the axle snapped and slid right out of the rear, tire attached and all

poulrais · Sep 1, 2009

90lxcoupe said:
at least you have c-clip eliminators so if you do break an axle it will stay in the rearend, my uncle had on old chevy van with a welded carrier and he was turning into a parking lot and the axle snapped and slid right out of the rear, tire attached and all

What kind of c-clips eliminators are you running by the way? I currently have Strange A1092 c-clips elim. on my car and those are equipped with low friction ball bearings, again not the best thing for street driven cars that have to take corners under load. I've gone through 2 sets of c-clips bearings in 6000 miles already. I just ordered a set of A1090 Strange c-clips that are designed for lapping (Timken roller bearings) but the downpart is that they only fit Strange big diameter axles so I had to order these also ... So I will have a set of 31 splines stock size axles (4 lugs) + Strange A1090 c-clips (need new bearings) for sell if anyone is interested...

oh9mustang · Sep 1, 2009

Detroit lockers don't engage and disengage going around a corner, unless you stepping on and off the gas going around the corner. A Detroit locker is a ratchet system, It ratchets one wheel while going around a corner.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 1, 2009

pony502 said:
Sorry they weren't grade 5 they were grade 8. And 316 L is a type of hardness rating for stainless,

Who makes 316L wheel studs?

316L isn't even comparable to Grade 5. Only a matter of time before those broke. 316L is for corrosion resistance. it's not even strong enough to make forks and knives (they use 440 for that)

Try the ARP studs listed above. If you are snapping those, then you got some serious forces on your studs because that 8740 alloy steel is about the stongest manufactured stud you'll find.

If your lugs keep loosening up, then something is yielding. Either the wheels are deforming and the lug nuts are pulling through, or the axle hubs are deforming on the backside. Either way, with a spool your tires should be slipping and sliding long before you start snapping studs like crazy.

But the fact that your lugs regularly loosen means something in your hub/stud/wheel setup is yeilding under stress. That spool it putting some serious forces on your setup when you turn.

poulrais · Sep 1, 2009

oh9mustang said:
Detroit lockers don't engage and disengage going around a corner, unless you stepping on and off the gas going around the corner. A Detroit locker is a ratchet system, It ratchets one wheel while going around a corner.

I understand that very well and it's much easier to be steady on the gas in a corner on a racetrack. But on the street with traffic or sudden obstacles, bumps etc., you often have to let go on the gas while cornering and in these conditions, the Detroit locker can be pretty unsettling at moderate to high speed...

pony502 · Sep 9, 2009

Well I just got done installing the 190,000 psi. ARP studs hoping for the best. I guess i'll see what happens. By the way everyone who thinks I'm gonna shear off an axle don't have to worry too much maybe I negleted to mention I have c clip eliminators w/ 33 spline axles. Anyways i'll keep the spool for now, nothing like a dead straight launch. Thanks for the link on the studs.

pony502 · Sep 9, 2009

the c clip elims are moser so are the axles and the spool

pony502 · Sep 9, 2009

Hey Mr. Mustang 5L5 it must be you who doesn't know a thing about metals. 316 isn't a corrosion rating it's way more than that, chemical composition tensile strength, hardness and a bunch of other **** too, I could go on for paragraphs so maybe you should do some more research before you talk silverware man. A Grade 5 bolt wasn't even close to the strength of the 316 stainless one. They weren't wheel studs either they were just bolts from a specailty store. Mine screw in they don't have tapered ends that press in. The axles came with 3" screw in studs from Moser that were only grade 8 and they probably broke because they were loose.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 10, 2009

pony502 said:
Hey Mr. Mustang 5L5 it must be you who doesn't know a thing about metals.

Enlighten me as to what experience you have to claim 316L is a suitable material for wheel studs...especially off the shelf bolts not designed to be studs? What reference are you using for the Ultimate tensile strenght and Yield Strenght of 316L and Grade 8 and 5 bolts? I find it humorous that you are running a high HP car with a spool with 316L bolts as studs and then wondering why you are shearing studs off. But what do I know? right?

Glad you went with the ARP studs. Much safers....good luck

90lxcoupe · Sep 10, 2009

pony502 said:
Hey Mr. Mustang 5L5 it must be you who doesn't know a thing about metals. 316 isn't a corrosion rating it's way more than that, chemical composition tensile strength, hardness and a bunch of other **** too, I could go on for paragraphs so maybe you should do some more research before you talk silverware man. A Grade 5 bolt wasn't even close to the strength of the 316 stainless one. They weren't wheel studs either they were just bolts from a specailty store. Mine screw in they don't have tapered ends that press in. The axles came with 3" screw in studs from Moser that were only grade 8 and they probably broke because they were loose.

yep they were real strong huh? probly why they broke. I'd never put anything from a "specialty" store on a part of my car that could potentially snap off and kill me. Its good that you went with the ARP's

pony502 · Sep 10, 2009

Mustang5L5 said:
Enlighten me as to what experience you have to claim 316L is a suitable material for wheel studs...especially off the shelf bolts not designed to be studs? What reference are you using for the Ultimate tensile strenght and Yield Strenght of 316L and Grade 8 and 5 bolts? I find it humorous that you are running a high HP car with a spool with 316L bolts as studs and then wondering why you are shearing studs off. But what do I know? right?

Glad you went with the ARP studs. Much safers....good luck

I never said it was a suitable material, Just thought I'd give them a try, but actually I never sheared off the stainless only the grade 8's

BK_CAULEY · Sep 10, 2009

its doesnt matter if you have c clip eliminators or not if you turn and the studs break off that wheel is still coming off. so what does it matter if the axle is attached or not?

oh yea 8740's typical tensile strength varies between 7580 and 188200 MPa.

316l's ranges from 2300 to 5900.

So yea the arp's are a little stronger than Your hobby shop bolts.

I got this info from a metal grade book i have here at the house. "romnell fasteners & stock"

HotFox · Sep 10, 2009

pony502 said:
Hey Mr. Mustang 5L5 it must be you who doesn't know a thing about metals. 316 isn't a corrosion rating it's way more than that, chemical composition tensile strength, hardness and a bunch of other **** too, I could go on for paragraphs so maybe you should do some more research before you talk silverware man. A Grade 5 bolt wasn't even close to the strength of the 316 stainless one. They weren't wheel studs either they were just bolts from a specailty store. Mine screw in they don't have tapered ends that press in. The axles came with 3" screw in studs from Moser that were only grade 8 and they probably broke because they were loose.

Could it be the fact that they are screw instead of press in that it is putting on more side stress since the stud is actually moving around in the hub. Do they thread into the hub? Could there be a chamfer that may be interfering with the bolt heading sitting against the back side of the hub.

I don’t blame you on the spool, I love my spool. For any high horsepower application it is a great feel that the wheels are locked together, besides the fact that the mustang is a narrow wheel based light car.

Scott

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