I know i'm going to get eaten alive for this but I have to ask:

Lockdown

Founding Member
May 6, 2001
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Ok well since ford never made a all aluminum 351 engine and chevy does make a all aluminum 350 that is within normal price range... my question is as follows, would dropping a all aluminum Chevy FI 350 in a mustang be all that difficult?

PS Please don't flame, I'm not a chevy nor Ford guy. Just like both. I'm just thinking of a good swap for a NA setup.
 
It's only about 100 lb difference between the cast iron 5.0L and aluminum 5.7L. Buy an A4 block, build a 347 stroker, done. Or go with a plain 5.0 or 5.8 and build them up. Parts are affordable, and you won't be :flame:'ed

Besides, you'd have to do a lot of re-wiring & custom fabrications that just isn't worth it...
 
The only reason I'm thinking about this is cause of the weight savings, 100 lbs is a good amount of weight. Plus it's a higher revving engine, and I would like to go to twin turbo and the intake manifold makes that a lot easier to plumb. But that's all in the future, i just don't want a 3800 lbs car. I want somthing a little more nimble and fun to throw around
 
I'm sure someone has made adaptors to fit ford trannys on chevy engines. It would be much easier to drop a 351 in it though. And higher reving just depends on how you build it and if you want a race engine or keep it streetable.
 
100 lbs is a tenth of a second between cars with the exact setup. to get it in you need a chevy trans, driveshaft, a fabbed rear connection, k memeber, etc. you will spend too much money to get it in. go for a 351 liek the man said. stroke it, bore it, and you will have 400+ cubic inches, which will more than make up for a 100 lbs. forged internals, you can rev it to the sky if you want. chevy guys swap to ford rears, ford guys swap to nothing chevy. :nice:
 
There are a helluva lot easier ways to lose 100 lbs out of a car than doing surgery like that. Its like having liposuction instead of laying off the bon-bons.

EDIT-

PS Please don't flame, I'm not a chevy nor Ford guy. Just like both. I'm just thinking of a good swap for a NA setup.


and I would like to go to twin turbo and the intake manifold makes that a lot easier to plumb.

My recommendation is to figure out what you actually want. Who cares if the engine is 'higher-revving' (whatever that means) if you plan to put boost to it. Boost doesn't care nearly as much about RPM as natural induction does. You want an aluminum motor that makes power? Why not use the 4.6? There are a number of people using 4.6 based builds in excess of 350 rwhp N/A. If you want a car that is fun to drive and is not a heavy pig, I think your best bet is to sell your Mustang and buy something else. You can strip the car, but it won't be much fun to drive.
 
well basically it is an engine coversion. they are all pretty much the same.

1. motor mounts
2. chevy tranny or ford adapter
3. tranny mount
4. Exhaust?
4. intake pluming
5. throttle cable
6. wiring

It can get expensive unless you are good at fabing up your own stuff. now if you make everthing it is just work.

I think any saving wieght or money would be negated by the swap. Engine swaps take time and extra money. Then again be both ford and chevy guy I can say SBC is the best engine dollar for dollar to make power out of. that is a point that is very hard to argue.

If you break it down to the simplest level it is really not that big of deal. I just put a ramjet 350 in a friends 87 4runner. It is work but a car is a car they all work fundamentally the same. I think one of the things that would be a bit prohibitive about this swap to me is not many people have done the legwork for you. the 4 runner I did I just bought parts from advance adapters. then made my fuel lines, coller lines, ac and power stearing hoses. The fuel injection was a breeze. All of the critical things like motor mounts and adapters were engineered by another company.
 
I appreciate the comments but yes I do know the difference between n/a and forced induction... mostly CR and what type of pistons and your rod lengths etc. but like I said the forced induction would be in the future. Anyway like it was mentioned before a aluminum 351 = $$$$ like 3k for the block alone. I could pick up a 350 LS1 for 1/3 to 1/4 that price and it's alumunium already. That's why I was seeing what people have done it or are thinking of doing it. Yes I know the fab part of the question, most of it is not that hard... except for the motor mounts, tranny mounts, and getting the correct positioning of everything... like mentioned before just work.
 
Lockdown said:
Yes I know the fab part of the question, most of it is not that hard... except for the motor mounts, tranny mounts, and getting the correct positioning of everything... like mentioned before just work.

Perhaps you would care to describe your strategy for engine management?
Are you prepare to rewire the car, if necessary?
Have you included the additional cost of all new accessories?
Are you paying for labor, or doing the work yourself? If yourself, what is your time worth to you?
Are you going to be content with a stock LS1 making between 275 and 320 rwhp depending on year? If not, are you factoring mod cost into your engine swap? If that ~300 rwhp power level is enough, why would you not stay the 4.6 route?
 
Lockdown said:
Ok well since ford never made a all aluminum 351 engine and chevy does make a all aluminum 350 that is within normal price range... my question is as follows, would dropping a all aluminum Chevy FI 350 in a mustang be all that difficult?

PS Please don't flame, I'm not a chevy nor Ford guy. Just like both. I'm just thinking of a good swap for a NA setup.
:nonono: Don't be that guy :notnice:
 
If one of your major goals is to save weight why not install an aftermarket tubular k-member w/ tubular a-arms w/ coil-overs? (Griggs or Maximum Motorsports) That alone would save you plenty in weight while improving your stang's overall handling 10 fold. Shed weight my man!! (Don't sacrifice safety though). I agree w/ the others on keeping your 4.6 2v or opting for a 4.6 4v. Unless you're out to spend the life savings you're better off w/ the 4.6.