I need a suggestion for my next parts purchase

cleveland

Founding Member

Feb 19, 2002

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SF>...

Jul 31, 2005

#1

• Jul 31, 2005

• #1

Check my signature for details of my vehicle.

What would you guys suggest be my next mod that would result in a lower ET. I want to put my 365+hp to better use for the 1320. Im looking for the best dollar to performance bargin and Im considering doing a 3.9:1 rear gear swap. I know I need tires and new wheels though... My 60 foot was lacking @ 2.080 on my nitrous run but I didnt hit the switch until after that.

Another issue, I seem to be lacking on the torque side of things. Any help there? Could Torque Managment be hurting me to the effect of 30+ft/lbs?

-Dan

 

L

lostsoul

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Jul 31, 2005

#2

• Jul 31, 2005

• #2

thats easy.. ATI Procharger!!.. start with 75 shot then at 3K the SC kicks in and your gone... woooooooooooo

 

cleveland

Founding Member

Feb 19, 2002

579

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Jul 31, 2005

#3

• Jul 31, 2005

• #3

lostsoul said:

thats easy.. ATI Procharger!!.. start with 75 shot then at 3K the SC kicks in and your gone... woooooooooooo

Click to expand...

I guess this would be the "obvious" answer but it doesnt help me. I dont plan to supercharge until I need to build up the bottom end. Plus, I would have to be insane to run an SC and a 100hit of n2o at the track.

Im looking for suspension and drivetrain mods like lower control arms, taller rear end gears and whatnot. Im interested in taking the power I already have and putting it to better use instead of just adding more power and being able to do no better with it.

I'm also thinking that my torque numbers are lacking for some reason. Does anybody have any dyno sheets of their autos with similar mods?

-Dan

 

Motorhead6T5

New Member

Oct 21, 2004

215

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Marysville,CA

Jul 31, 2005

#4

• Jul 31, 2005

• #4

LCA's,I get zero wheel hop now.

 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is

May 1, 2005

3,015

1

79

7200 feet

Jul 31, 2005

#5

• Jul 31, 2005

• #5

some 4.10s would be good. also buy some drag tires. you were just running the street tires right? buy some drag radials or slicks, that should help you out off the line. also, practice makes perfect. this is the first time to the drags for you w/ this set up right? go a few more times and see what you can do to improve your times. things like tire pressure, launch rpm, shift points, etc....i dont know anything about the automatic trans these days (C6 is about all i know), but maybe a stall....all this should help get you better times with the setup you already have. also suspension mods as said by Motorhead6T5 area also a good idea. i know you have the eibach, but LCAs, adjustable panhard bar, etc should help out. also, weight reduction. i know that most of this is not to get you more power, but i think with more power, you will have a bigger problem off the line. its not as glamerous as N2O, but will get you better times none the less...

 

jlisle01

New Member

Dec 29, 2004

250

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McAlester,OK

Aug 1, 2005

#6

• Aug 1, 2005

• #6

Lower control arms and 4.10's if you can stand it on the highway. The gears will take care of that bottom end torque problem and the lower arms will let you plant it. Of course, I hope you realize that if you make that thing any faster you will completely eliminate ANY reason whatsoever to upgrade to a Shelby!!!!!!!!lol

 

D

discofan

Member

Apr 21, 2005

108

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16

Aug 3, 2005

#7

• Aug 3, 2005

• #7

YES!!!

If you can get your hands on a Shelby GT500...

Last word out was that most are already bought by dealers, friends of dealers, relatives of dealers, and dealer's neighbors...

The rest that are left to sell (if any at all) will probably be auctioned off by each dealer "to the highest bidder"...

Do not modify your car and save your money because it will take about $75,000 to drive one that retails for $45,000 away from the dealership next year...

Good Luck, Dave

 

05SatinSilver

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Aug 3, 2005

#8

• Aug 3, 2005

• #8

Dan, looks like you've got plenty of options still available. Headers, UD pullies, electric waterpump, LCA, etc...
Once you get them all installed, you should be 'good-to-go'
Have you seen the stuff these guys are making:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm
Nice work!

Dave...

 

C

chunkachunk

Banned

Aug 5, 2005

16

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0

Aug 5, 2005

#9

• Aug 5, 2005

• #9

carbon fiber windshield wipers

 

cleveland

Founding Member

Feb 19, 2002

579

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SF>...

Aug 6, 2005

#10

• Aug 6, 2005

• #10

05SatinSilver said:

Have you seen the stuff these guys are making:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm

Click to expand...

Since I now believe Im going to be getting the 4.10s I should go ahead and swap the LCAs and get the adjustable brackets too. Which of the 3 BMR units would be best for my street/strip car? Im guessing I should just go with the
"race" units but is it really worth the extra $$$? I really want to improve upon that poor 60 foot of mine and get back to the drags within a week or 2.

My plan is to put the engine power to better use without trading out my radials for slicks. I want a car that can be fast on the street, basically defining a street/strip vehicle.

Also, where is a good place to buy the gears? Price is an issue of course.

-Dan

 

Motorhead6T5

New Member

Oct 21, 2004

215

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Marysville,CA

Aug 6, 2005

#11

• Aug 6, 2005

• #11

http://www.lmperformance.com/5362/73.html

These are the ones I got,non adjustable with poly bushings,and greasable.

 

BigWorm2005GT

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

49

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Everett, WA

Aug 6, 2005

#12

• Aug 6, 2005

• #12

What about these?

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/05gtrear.htm

They look like the Steeda billet arms but a lot less expensive. Worth it or garbage?