I need some help with body prep on my fastback

[mr-fixit]

Hello all,
I am starting the paint prep work on the body of my 65 F/B and have a few questions.
1. I stripped the roof, cowl and deck lid, and found a fair amount of surface rust. Much of it has pitted the metal. After I removed the rust with an acid based product called Rust B Gone, there is a hazy film (Zinc?) left on the metal. Do I remove this coating before I epoxy prime?
2. I installed NOS 1/4 panels, and they have the old style red oxide primer on them, should I D/A this primer off before epoxy coating?
3. The 1/4 panel factory seams were originally lead, I was thinking of using either Dyna Glass filler or All Metal filler for this area, which is better? and do I put it on the bare metal or on top of the epoxy primer?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Rick D.

 

[BarnStang]

Not sure about the residue, but use dynaglass/duraglass whatever the heavy fiberglass filler is. I had this same question and one of our paint guys said that the metal filler will attract and trap moisture, unless you re-lead the seam...
We have not had any problems using duraglass as an underlayment, regular filler to finish.
On my 66 FB, I had the same problem as you. Another paint guy we work with had meusea product called Z Chrome as the rust barrier. t's been on there a year and not one bubble anywhere...the other side of the coin is that I have also been told that nless you erradicate ALL existance of "rust" from the metal (media blasting) that it "will" come back eventually.Well, at some point you can only do so much. Hope that helps.
It would be better if a body guy answered your other process questions. THis is not my strongest area, but am picking it up more and more. On my car, we put the duraglass on bare metal, the guy helping me roughed up the repair area with a body grinder first, then duraglass, cheesefile, sand, filler, block, epoxy primer, block, block, block, geeze, I was reminded why I dn't like bodywork...

 

[RUSTYNUT]

I'm in about the same spot as you and things have changed since the days of driveway paint jobs. Every tech guy and paint counter gives me different oppinions. So i'll give you another one. Been asking lots of questions reading magazine articles and really watching the car tv shows. Not just trying see down AJs' shirt, but looking at what products and how they use them. Here's how i'm handeling simalar situations.
As for the residue, maybe you can paint over it, not sure why you would want to. Doesn't take long to run a DA over it.
I would sand off the primer at least on the outside. The old primers are very pores and will actually soak up water and oil. Those old panels my have rust under the primer that you can't see. Ever notice the guys selling there primered cars with all the rust showing through? All the handeling over the years has probably ground in alot of body oils.
Lead has been and still is the best filler. I have had some say the metal fillers are the best because they flex. Other than a couple car shows using lead , they all used a fiber product. They are building 100 grand plus cars. So I will be using a product with kevlar fibers. If it falls apart and gets all fuzzy I can say " DUDE, that's kevlar".

I have always been tought to put filler then primer. It seems that the new school of thought is to epoxy prime then use filler. Most of the fillers and glazes that I have even say that you can do this. I may be to set in my ways, but I will still only use glaze (very thin) on top of epoxy primer. Example might be your roof. Once I had the rust gone and the residue off, shoot a couple coats of epoxy, and let dry to manufacture specs. Scuff with 60 grit and apply your glaze. If there is any rust left it should help seal out air and water. Then shoot your 4-5 coats of primer for block sanding.
The biggest thing seems to make sure your primers,sealers, top coats, ect are compatable with each other. You can use enamel over cured laquer, the other way is a disaster. Best to stick with the same brand of products to avoid bad chemical reactions.

 

[mr-fixit]

Thanks for the replys guys!
Rustynut, I also am "old school" and can't get use to putting filler and glazing putty over epoxy primer, but it's a new world. (back when I learned to paint, primer was allways lacquer based, and there was only one color of black paint) I just wasn't sure of the seam area where the filler will be over a 1/4 inch deep.
Barnstang, you have me thinking maybe I better give the roof a shot with some 80 grit garnet in my pressure blaster, just to be sure all the rust and residue is gone.
Thanks again, Rick

 

[BarnStang]

It's so dangerous to media blast large panels, especially the roof. The heat caused by the high impact of the media can quickly warp the panel. You don't want a bing bong in your roof. So what to do? If you do media blast it, the lowest risk method is to spray the media at an angle and not stay in one spot at all. Will take longer and use more media, but should keep you from warping the panel.
The Z Chrome Rust defender paint sprayed on nice. My coworker had never used it before and he was impressed with it. It is "supposed" to solve this exact problem...so they say. Here is the link to the project so you can see what it looked like:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii313/Barnstang/Andrew/66FB 1/DSC01486.jpg