I need to learn how to weld...

Cutting torch and coat hangers.

The Green GT said:

Cutting torch and coat hangers.

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Therian said:

I would be probably stuck with using traditional household sockets as far as connections go...I don't believe my parents' shop has the larger connection (you're referring to the size that dryers and stoves use, right?).

I would like to be able to weld aluminum if need be, but I'm not positive if I absolutely have to. I figure the majority of the work I'll be doing will be with steel...but again, I'm not positve.

I will look into the community college courses...

what about something like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LCN-K692-3&N=115&autoview=sku

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That Lincoln would be a pretty good start for what you want to do. A SMAW welder (sheilded metal arc welding, aka stick welder) is good for heavier plate type work. GMAW (gas metal arc welding, aka MIG welder) is good for thin sheetmetal up to thicker plate (only up to 1/4" in the size you're looking). GTAW (gas tungsten arc welding, aka TIG) is very versatile has tons of control and most units will do AC welding for aluminum as well as being able to double as a stick welder. With all the control of TIG, comes a requirement for a decent amount of skill.

Not saying that you can't get nice beads with a MIG welder, but it will be more difficult to achieve them.

If you buy this welder (which, BTW, I think sounds like a good setup for you and Lincoln is a good brand), I'm going to make two suggestions to you.

1. Buy a tank of shielding gas. Flux core is OK in a pinch, but you will have to chip off the slag from your weld beads all the time. If you ever do any bodywork with this welder, reminents of slag can prevent paint from sticking.

2. Buy an autodarkening helmet. The quality of my welds went up significantly when I bought my Miller helmet. You don't need to spend more than $100 to get an inexpensive one that will do the job. Being able to see your workpiece clearly before striking the arc (as opposed to flipping a helmet down in-between) makes all the difference in the world. Then you just need to practice a bit and you should probably buy some books on welding.

illwood said:

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Beleive it or not there are a group of hippies that weld around here and they use that. I would never go to them but they are really cheap.

i bought a lincon mig from home depot...Its the one for around 500, and comes with a gas hookup. Works great, and it allowed me to make my turbo kit. I welded my first setup using gasless, but with my latest setup i used c02 sheilding gas, and i will never go back.

or, there is always the alternate route:
http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml

My little brother is a cert. welder and his first setup was gasless but had the hookups and he was moanging about it as he just bought a new roll of wire and almost tossed it. When a buddy bought a gas setup and I saw the difference HOLY CRAP I dont know why anyone would go gasless after seeing that.

My brother started with a trade in from a welder supply shop. If you go up there and go to the same store and get some your basic tools...wire brush, gloves, shield, or jacket and talk to them and ask about trade in's. If your 1/2 a BS'r you can really score some good setups.

The Green GT said:

Beleive it or not there are a group of hippies that weld around here and they use that. I would never go to them but they are really cheap.

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Oh, I believe it. I've even seen a beat Chevy plow truck have body work repaired that way.

Doesn't make it a good method.

Putting a plow on a mustang is not a good idea

You first need to decide what type of materials you are going to be welding. An arc or stick welder is best for heavy material--welding 1" plates, etc. A mig welder (GMAW) is better for thinner materials and required for welding modern auto bodies. It also has the advantage of the wire feed so you don't have to change rod sticks.
In buying a welder, generally the more amps and longer the duty cycle, the better off you are.

There's also gas welding using acetylene or hydrogen as fuel and oxygen as the oxidizer. These types of welds are generally stronger than the electrical type and you can weld dissimilar metals. You could use coat hangers as your rod with this method but it's not a good idea if you want the weld to hold.

A few years back I got a Hobart Handler 135 mig welder from Northern Tool for $350.00. It runs on 30 amp household current and came with the regulator and hose for the shielding gas. They also threw in gloves, helmet, and a chipping hammer?. Hobart was discontinuing the 135 and coming out with a 140 amp model so it was like a clearance price. At Northern the 140 is currently about US $470 with free shipping. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_114

You can get a welding cart from Harbor Freight for $40. It beats dragging the welder and bottle around. They also have gloves and helmets so maybe $60 there.

I do have some minor welding experience from 25 years ago using a stick welder. I bought a $20 book on welding and it had some beginner's welding projects in it. I built a cutting/welding table for about $100 in materials and by the time I was done, I was making some pretty nice welds--to the point I had a hell of a time getting off one of the legs I welded on wrong. The trick for me was to keep the puddle hot--low wire feed speed and high heat. You don't want welds that look like chicken *****. Also, match your welding rod/wire to the materials you are going to weld. Use the same material/alloy. You can weld aluminum with a mig welder. You need to get aluminum wire and a bottle of argon shielding gas.

Good luck.

Man a welder is a great tool. One of the best tools I ever bought. I also have a lincoln from Home Depot. Out is a 135 amps which is the almost the highest one can use on household current. When looking for a welder I would stick with Lincoln, Miller or Hobart. Some of the other ones like Clark I am not familiar with so I couldn't tell you how good they are.

What kind of welding are you going to be doing? Just the basic sheet metal, exhaust and fixing up some broken parts around the house. Try to find a welder that best suites your needs. Look for the best output amps on household current. I think its around 140 or so which can handle almost any welding for exhaust and other car stuff but when welding up some thick plate you really need to get a 220 connection and welder to get the penetration. Good luck with your search and welder when and if you decide to get one!

To learn out to weld: I learned with some help from my brother in law and practice on my own time on scrap metal pieces. Its really not that hard.

Therian said:

the main reason for the welder is to reinforce a plow.

I imagine that I would need to use atleast 1/4 in metal to actually achieve any good reinforcement. Anybody have any experience with this type of project?

and it's NOT going on the stang

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1/4'' steel is the limits of a 135-140 amp welder on household current. Anything thicker 220 volt is needed. Hobarts 135 amp welder can weld 24 ga. to 3/16" steel.

blkcobra50 said:

1/4'' steel is the limits of a 135-140 amp welder on household current. Anything thicker 220 volt is needed. Hobarts 135 amp welder can weld 24 ga. to 3/16" steel.

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You can always make multiple passes and/or bevel the ends to be welded if the material is thicker than what your machine is rated for.


In any event, here are some basic welding tips:

http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html#mig

gustang818 said:

You can always make multiple passes and/or bevel the ends to be welded if the material is thicker than what your machine is rated for.


In any event, here are some basic welding tips:

http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html#mig

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This welder here...says it can weld up to 1/4" plate which would be a good choice.

Handler 140