I started breakin down the stock engine for my H/C/I upgrade...a few questions....

[nmcgrawj]

Whats up guys? Well i started breaking the top half of the motor down today to start cleaning the engine up. I still got a few more weeks...if not about a month before i have all the parts for the h/c/i upgrade but its going REALLY smooth so far. Here are some pics...I will put my questions down below.

Now, in that picture of the lower intake manifold...that seems to be excessive amounts of oil....i need to buy a new pcv valve?(i think thats the name )

Which accessories have to be taken all the way off? Which can you just move out of the way? I dont want to do too little and i dont want to end up tracing myself twice if i do something wrong. The heads of the bolts have the Torx pattern...do they have those pieces at murrays i need to go buy?

This is the first time i cracked into a motor before and im doing it pretty much on my own. Its going GREAT so far But anyone with any CONSTRUCTIVE criticism or any hints/tips/good ideas for me to use...feel free to feel me in!

 

[nmcgrawj]

whoaaaa....let me make those pictures smaller.

 

[HoofnIt]

The oil in the lower intake could be a result of poor crankcase ventilation or perhaps from blowby. It's a good idea to change the pcv valve, screen and it's rubber grommet prior to installing the new upper intake. I removed my alternator and it's bracket-just set it to the side. Take out the bolts for the p/s and A/C bracket and move them to the side as well. I didn't take the p/s cooler all the way out as you have done. I loosened it just enough to move it out of the way so the cam could go in. With the way you have it now it's going to be quite difficult to work around, especially installing/torquing the heads. The factory head bolts are 6 sided. The ARP bolts I used for the new heads are for a 12 point socket. I don't know about the 'torx.'
Oh, you don't need to remove all of the bolts for the AC bracket. One of them will not come out of the bracket as the pump is in the way. You can loosen it so it will come out of the head though.

 

[nmcgrawj]

The oil in the lower intake could be a result of poor crankcase ventilation or perhaps from blowby. It's a good idea to change the pcv valve, screen and it's rubber grommet prior to installing the new upper intake. I removed my alternator and it's bracket-just set it to the side. Take out the bolts for the p/s and A/C bracket and move them to the side as well. I didn't take the p/s cooler all the way out as you have done. I loosened it just enough to move it out of the way so the cam could go in. With the way you have it now it's going to be quite difficult to work around, especially installing/torquing the heads. The factory head bolts are 6 sided. The ARP bolts I used for the new heads are for a 12 point socket. I don't know about the 'torx.'
Oh, you don't need to remove all of the bolts for the AC bracket. One of them will not come out of the bracket as the pump is in the way. You can loosen it so it will come out of the head though.

Thats the A/C condensor im pretty sure thats on the fender...the power steering cooler is still in the front of the car. That "radiator" thats on the fender was right infront of the stock radiator. Thats for the a/c right?

The "torx" bolts i was referring to are the bolts in the accessory brackets. Do i need to get a puller for the power steering pulley? Anything like that?

 

[wytstang]

You may think that's alot of oil but it's just built up over 10yrs no big deal. When switching itakes it's always a good ideal to buy a new pvc valve and mesh screen. Here's a helpful link on swaping heads and cam good luck.
http://users3.ev1.net/~voodoostang/headsswap.htm

 

[nmcgrawj]

Isn't it dangerous to rebuild the top-end
without addressing the crank?

Not with the regular h/c/i upgrades people do. Maybe when going with alot of boost or juice..then maybe. But with less than 100k on the clock the 5.0 is just getting broken in

 

[tderrick]

Isn't it dangerous to rebuild the top-end
without addressing the crank?

 

[tderrick]

Does h/c/i stand for - heads / cam / intake?

 

[wytstang]

correct...

 

[nmcgrawj]

Do you guys usually go with head bolts or studs? Is there anything besides ARP you guys use becuase i just saw in the summit mag they go for $110!

 

[RIO5.0]

Your intake looks completely normal...there all black and cruddy like that....
That mesh beneath can be washed out in solvent to bring it back to new..I would be planning on a complete tune-up...all new stuff, filters...unless there fairly new...
If your adding H/C/I...have you got an upgraded fuel pump to support those new parts???and a AFPR is also good/needed to help tune it???

i'd pull all the front brackets...you can clean em up in the down time...if your planning on not using a PS puller than that lower head bolt will require a "thin or ground down" wrench to access that bolt...puller is just as easy and can be rented....

the AC condensor sits in front of the radiator....remove the radi and then undo the clips on the condensor and flip it "carefully" to the pass side...bungee it up out of the way and the cam can come out....a long 6" bolt comes in real handy for removing/replacing the cam....dont want to mess the cam bearings with the cam banging around...the long bolt helps steady it while your feeding it in....


tderrick...if the motors in good mechanical shape....things should be cool...these 5.0 motor last...

Heres the puller for the PS pulley..

you can see the "mother" bolt right under the PS pulley...its a long mother to...this needs the thin wrench if not using the puller...I bought a puller after messing with it for 1/2 hr...

 

[1105]

tisk tisk Andy... you're AC pulley looks a little dirty

 

[tderrick]

You can replace the cam without fresh bearings? Up to what milage would you guess??

 

[wytstang]

tisk tisk Andy... you're AC pulley looks a little dirty

 

[One Wicked SVT]

TDERRICK...

YES, you can swap cams without bearings,

YES you can do HCI without going into the internals.


Internals on a good tune are good for 4-500hp.

 

[RIO5.0]

Hardy har har....notice the balancer...its the stocker....Those were taken during my H/C/I upgrade.... Cant beat me at my own game....

 

[wytstang]

I'll get you my pretty and your really clean car too..

 

[nmcgrawj]

Your intake looks completely normal...there all black and cruddy like that....
That mesh beneath can be washed out in solvent to bring it back to new..I would be planning on a complete tune-up...all new stuff, filters...unless there fairly new...
If your adding H/C/I...have you got an upgraded fuel pump to support those new

I already have a walbro 255lph pump. Where can i get new sensors for the TB at? I will be upgrading to a 75mm. What else? Air filter with the new pro-m Maf. PCV. Let me know.

How do you think it would look if i painted the brackets black? Should i just clean them up? Eventually i want to get my holley intake powder coated black. What are your opinions?

Not sure if u all saw my question....do you guys go with head bolts or head studs? Is there an advantage with either? Anything cheaper than ARP? They are $100 in summit right? OUTCH

 

[Grn92LX]

Nate, tear down is the easy part. I suggest head studs and might wanna do a new balancer while your there if you can swing it. LIke we talked about on AIM, put the bolts and stuff in seperate zip lock bags and label them.

What did you end up deciding to do for heads or is it a secret? If its a secret get your ass on AIM and tell me

 

[rio95]

i'mms jeloaus; ia wqwnayt to do hci como on mysds gts..... I'm jjelous


good licuk,,.... If u needs sadany help pm me tomoeroow!!!



Happptyy newew year !!! 010105