I started breakin down the stock engine for my H/C/I upgrade...a few questions....

Grn92LX said:

I think the only thing you'll be doing tomorrow is kissing the toilet bowl

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Jo_885o said:

Nate head studs and arp are the best.

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RIO5.0 said:

You have some time so shop the classifieds...i got a set of ARP head bolts for 20.00 shipped, used once....alot of BS parts can be found cheap....I run a Fox set-up so sensors are pretty common...SN stuff ????

I dont know what your budget is, but for tune-up parts the McCarville tune-up kits is hard to beat...you get it all for 100.00 and all Ford stuff...plugs/wires/fuel filter/PCV/cap&rotor...I ran these for 5 yrs before i swapped to the PD ignition kit....

The brackets i would do in Alum/Silver....Black hides everything...these motors have some much junk on em you cant see jack....you don't get much "detail" when everythings Black...wires/pulley's/hoses/covers you name it...Black.....tons of Black stuff in the bay already...Just my opinion...

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17yrOldStanger said:

At least:
-190lph fuel pump
-24 lb injectors
-Fel-Pro 1250
-Fel-Pro 1415
-ARP head BOLTS - use studs if you plan on pulling the heads everyday. They are a bitch to work with
-75mm MAF
-65mm Throttle body
-New timing chain and sprockets
-new valve covers
-new upper to lower intake gasket
-Autolite 3924? (cant remember)
-new timing cover gaskets
-hardened pushrods
-new lifters

My suggestions:
-Get some roller rockers - 1.6
-take your time

I know i might have missed something, so no flaming me

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17yrOldStanger said:

whoops, my bad. Hmm, ive got some tips:

-Pull off the PS pulley and take off that ENTIRE bracket with all the accesories on it.
-Take off the alternator and the air pump pulley and remove that whole bracket
-Pull the condensor to make it easier to put cam in
-Soak your lifters in oil overnight to insure there is no more air in them
-Set your roller rockers to zero lash
-Use ATF instead of assembly lube
-Get used to moving a lot of stuff out of the way
-Clean all mating surfaces well.
-Inspect as much as you can while everything is apart. That'll prevent any future problems

Hope this helps

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17yrOldStanger said:

Hmm, i still have my smog pump but there shouldnt be a lot to pull off. There is an EGR tube that runs on the back of both heads, so youll have to figure that stuff out. the swap is a long, frustrating, and tiresome thing. I had to heat and bend my headers to fit the new heads. keep in mind that the EGR helps cool the combustion chamber, which is power. Just food for thought. Some people will argue that the EGR is a waste and yadda yadda. Ive put my 2 pennies in. Good luck with everything. By the way, what set up are you going to run???

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nmcgrawj said:

Yea i have heard about the EGR cooling the combustion chamber stuff...plenty of guys run without it though. And it will give me plenty of room to work with under the hood on the passenger side.

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RIO5.0 said:

Smog pump is gravy...couple bolts its gone....undo the rubber hose on the back....pull those 2 steel lines outta there, one feeds the H the other is part of the smog pump connection to the back of the heads...
Undo the 3 prong affair that feeds into the fenderwell....i stuffed bolts in it, taped em an tucked it into the fenderwell...
the Grn/Yel/Wht plastic tubes can be tossed....they connect to the 3 prong jobbie and head up to the EGR/Intake....your removing the EGR and swapping intakes anyway...push the EGR plunger 1/2 way and secure to kill the CEL...
the tube that feeds around to the back of the heads is easy to get out once the heads are off...your new heads smog legal?? meaning they have those holes for the tubes?? if not, no problem...if so, make block off plates out of 1/4" Alum or the like...
Smog gone.....The pile should look like this...stash it in case its needed or sell it...

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