I still have no power!..swap problems

[silver pony]

ok ok I've taken my time with this and I took out the RR and folowers and reinstalled the TC cam and followers with a few new lifters, and I still get no power, I've changed out the computer, I seemt o have a vacuum leak but I can't find any whatsoever, it runs rich sometimes and it's not building boost in nuetral anymore but won't make power and won't go over 2500rpm.... any ideas?

 

[MustangPatty]

Dude, Ok, trust me on this, I went through this with the SVO, check EVERY Vacume line with a fine toothed comb, make sure there all going to the right places, that there not hard or cracked. IF you have any open spots on the tree make sure there pluged. Also check the Fuel pressure, the regulator. Make sure on your BAP(If ya got one, not to sure) sensor there is no vacume line on it(Took me almost a week to find that out with almost the same symptoms). In Short, dont discount the stupid little things, sometimes they cause the biggest problems..

 

[Stinger]

1) Do you have a vacuum gauge? If not, buy one (vac/boost actually). You can EASILY find the vacuum leaks in a matter of MINUTES if you have one. Without one, you may never find them.

2) Have you ran codes?

3) Have you replaced the plugs and wires with MOTORCRAFT parts (and no other brand)?

4) Have you gapped the plugs to .032?

5) Have you checked the vam hose to make sure it's still got the internal spring to keep it from collapsing?

6) Are you now sure that the cam and ignition timing is right?

7) Have you done a compression check?

8) Have you made sure the timing is advancing when you put the spout connector back in after setting the base timing?

9) Have you checked base fuel pressure?

10) Have you pulled the vac line off the FPR and made sure it was dry (no fuel in it)?

11) What do your plugs look like (color, wet or dry)?

Answer these 11 questions with results (if you've done any of this stuff) and we'll have the problem fixed in no time.

Stinger

 

[silver pony]

ok yea I know I have a vacuum leak but can't find it for the life of me...
I do have a vacuum/boost guage to the vacuum usually sits around -10-13lbs now, everyonce in awhile it sits at -15lbs.
I ran codes befoe but I'll run them again,
I only have MC plugs I don't have enough for wireset (no job does this to you ),
pluggs are gapped to .032,
vam hose stays open,
timing is dead on,
I don't have a compression tester,
timign advance when I put spout back in (making sure I turn off car before I plug spout back in),
I don't have fuel pressure guage,
I'll check the FPR hose for gas,
and I'll check the plugs.

thanks though

 

[Stinger]

ok yea I know I have a vacuum leak but can't find it for the life of me...
I do have a vacuum/boost guage to the vacuum usually sits around -10-13lbs now, everyonce in awhile it sits at -15lbs.
I ran codes befoe but I'll run them again,
I only have MC plugs I don't have enough for wireset (no job does this to you ),
pluggs are gapped to .032,
vam hose stays open,
timing is dead on,
I don't have a compression tester,
timign advance when I put spout back in (making sure I turn off car before I plug spout back in),
I don't have fuel pressure guage,
I'll check the FPR hose for gas,
and I'll check the plugs.

thanks though

To find the vac leak all you need to do is start the car and let it idle. Have someone else sit in the seat and watch the gauge. Then get under the hood and unhook the ports on the vacuum tree one at a time. You have to unhook them and then plug them so you don't get a vac leak. When the gauge shows MORE vac after you've pulled a certain line and plugged it then you KNOW that line is leaking somewhere. To find where you plug it back in and trace it to it's next junction. Unplug and see if the vac goes up again. If so, keep working down the line (and all the y's that come off of it) until you find the line that is leaking (raises vac when plugged). Keep doing this until your vac is at least 17" at idle. Mine is 18-19". Before I did this I had about 13"...turns out my EGR solenoid on the back of the passenger side strut tower was leaking (in the trash that POS went).

Unfortunately the vac leak isn't your problem though (unless it indicates a cam timing problem). The plug wires are most likely your issue there.

You don't have to turn off the car to plug the spout in.

What the plugs look like (a clear pic would be great) and what the FPR hose looks like will probably tell the story. If not, you'll have to do a sensor by sensor check at the computer.

Stinger

 

[MustangPatty]

Motorcraft Plugs and wiers, what is with all this, "ONLY" MC stuff??? I'm runnin Taylor 8mm wiers with Bosh platinum, (Not the +2 or +4, just the standard platinums), and have noticed no discrepencies in the iginitin system, with and MSD coil and MSD 5 iginition box...Not intended to be scarcasim, just a question. My Car seems to have plenty of power now that I've got it runnin right with this ignition setup...

 

[Stinger]

Motorcraft Plugs and wiers, what is with all this, "ONLY" MC stuff??? I'm runnin Taylor 8mm wiers with Bosh platinum, (Not the +2 or +4, just the standard platinums), and have noticed no discrepencies in the iginitin system, with and MSD coil and MSD 5 iginition box...Not intended to be scarcasim, just a question. My Car seems to have plenty of power now that I've got it runnin right with this ignition setup...

As noted in the other thread...wait until you start modding. I can see it already. I'll wait for the post on TF.

Stinger

 

[mr_woodster]

vaccum leak? grab a propane canistor (like one for a lantern) get the adapter with some hose, turn it on low so it is blowing out the end of your hose, move that hose along all the vaccum tree, lines, intake,etc when you hear the rpm of the motor jump up, focus your search in that area you are using the propane, i think its one of the surrest ways of finding a vaccum leak (aslong as the car idles in some fashion)...ive seen my dad do this over many many many years (professional mechanic for more years than i have been alive ;o) ) and he has ALWAYS found the leak within 10 mins.

 

[kiddiccarus]

I get the vaccume bringing the propane into the system at the point of the leak and that will narrow down the leak, BUT can you clearify more on what the propane does in the purpose to cause the change in the rpm's. I know it is about detiniation. So just a brief explanation is all I am asking for here, currious because I have never heard this process before.

 

[nomuffler]

I've never heard of that either butI would assume the engine would draw in the propane and it would mix with the combustion air in the intake manifold, it being combustible it just produces a small amount more power when it burns so the idle goes up slightly