i think my motor may be on its way out

90_Red_LX · Sep 26, 2006

Fired up the car and moved it to the garage about a tenth of a mile down the road, put new tags on it since I changed the title, and fired it up. Took it for a drive since I hadn't driven it in a few days and as soon as I pulled out the check oil light came on. Never seen that light before. Turned it around pulled it back in the garage, it was a quart low. My car has been ran a quart low without that light on before though? Dad said it was a quart and a half low but a quart put it at the full line. I'm going to check it again here in a minute though. Is that a bad sign, as I changed it a couple months ago and haven't put 1500 miles on it, maybe 1k and it done that. I have beat the piss out of it since the oil change though, could that be a factor. I haven't had problems with coolant or oil until after the intake swap so is it possible that it may have something to do with it? Maybe the pcv is sucking the oil out and blowing it in the intake? I'm stumped and don't want to burn the motor up. Let me know what you guys think. I'm probably going to stick a comp test on it soon and see what it does. The car runs strong, has 105k on it.

25thmustang · Sep 26, 2006

We run my dads car a couple quarts low when we race it...

Hickfied · Sep 26, 2006

I think Ford specs oil consumption up to a quart every 900 miles before it is rebuild time.

90_Red_LX · Sep 26, 2006

It only burnt a quart every 3k miles before last oil change. Then I changed it and it was only a quart low at that time, and it was fine during the several times I took it to the track it was fine after that, but today the check oil light came on and had me concerned. I don't want to h/c it and have it blow up on me, so thats why I have my suspicisons raised.

gcwh02 · Sep 26, 2006

buy a compression tester for $25 bucks and check your compression.

25thmustang · Sep 26, 2006

I drove around for 6 months adding a quart of oil every 75-100 miles... Car blew smoke out the tails almost all the time, but still ran 13.0s with a pretty much stock motor and bolt ons!

90_Red_LX · Sep 26, 2006

Neighbor has a comp tester so I'm gonna save the 25 bucks and use his. It just has me worried because I have some big mods planned this winter, and nothing would tear me up more than putting it together and watching it self-destruct.

mob · Sep 26, 2006

Try the compression test. When was the last time you changed the oil? My dipstick dosent read correct for ****. I drained all my oil out, put in 5 quarts, and my dipstick says its way too full. I say screw it, I put my 5 quarts in I know im safe. Realy point of the story is, I changed my oil once, put in 4 quarts, looked at the dipstick and it said it was full, i thought wtf? maybe there was oil still in there that didnt drain so its full. Left it like that, about 2000 miles later the check oil light came on. I put a quart of oil in it never had a problem. Like I said, put your 5 quarts in and dont worry about the rest. And yes I did take out both plugs when I drained it lol.

90_Red_LX · Sep 26, 2006

I changed it a couple months ago. I change it at 3k or shortly after like it's religion. The cars probably not even halfway due yet though, I'll have to look at the odometer and the sticker. It has 105kish and the old sticker said my due date was 104kish. So it's fairly fresh, and it's not even black on the dipstick yet. When I run it hard though, oil is halfway up the dipstick until I wipe it off and recheck it. It has bubbles in it sometimes. What irks me is the car has always been a well cared for car except for recently when I took it to the track 5 times in 4 weeks so I dunno? It was fine after the last trip, was full of oil after that, but it scares me. There is no sign of leaking oil or oil being burnt from smell that I'm aware of. But I'm watching it like a hawk now so if somethings leaking I should catch it shortly. Funny it never burnt much oil until after the intake swap though.

EDIT: I deleted one of my pcv hoses since it wouldn't reach could that be a problem? The other one runs from the pcv to the backside of the tree, and the other side is plugged. Could that cause it to blow oil out? I have no way of routing the other pcv hose since there is no provision for it.

gcwh02 · Sep 26, 2006

pull the vacuum hose that goes from the valve cover to the TB and see if oil has gotten in it or in the TB

vristang · Sep 26, 2006

gcwh02 said:
pull the vacuum hose that goes from the valve cover to the TB and see if oil has gotten in it or in the TB

^^^ Yep

If the pcv system is suspect then check the above mentioned TB/VC line and the pcv line.
They should be dry.

Also, if you pull the intake hose and manually open the throttle blade... Do you see oil inside the intake?

If it is pcv related these 2 inspection steps are where to start.

Regardless of what you find above, do the compression check. Just to be sure.

Pcv problems do seem to start with intake upgrades.

I agree that dipsticks are not always correct. You should verify the markings on your stick, and make your own if necessary.

I doubt it, but are you getting any codes?

jason

SMOKEDYA · Sep 27, 2006

2 questions. 1 mob is that your car in your sig running in the 13's? Damn must have killer traction to almost pull the wheels? Whats you suspension det up consist of? 2:What should a good 302 run in compression. peace

john

vristang · Sep 27, 2006

SMOKEDYA said:
2:What should a good 302 run in compression. peace

john

John-
The numbers will vary depending on CR and actual test temp, etc.

The important thing is that all cyl's should be within 10% of the highest cyl.

jason

90_Red_LX · Sep 27, 2006

I'll hook the scanner to it when I get to work and see what it says, and pull those hoses. I'm gonna talk to my neighbor sometime and run a comp test on it later this week. I drove it today and it ran strong though. I have been revving it higher with the intake because it feels like its still pulling, could that have done some damage?

mob · Sep 27, 2006

SMOKEDYA said:
2 questions. 1 mob is that your car in your sig running in the 13's? Damn must have killer traction to almost pull the wheels? Whats you suspension det up consist of? 2:What should a good 302 run in compression. peacejohn

Yep, thats my car, my traction is good, but I have more weight distribution mods then suspension. Everything I have is in my sig, literally everything else is 100% stock minus aluminum upper control arms, and a PA performance starter lol. Weight wise, i have no sway bar, battery in trunk, no a/c or smog, oh and no engine haha jk.

As for the thread starter im interested to see if you find anything in that hose to the t/b

Revving up high shouldnt hurt anythig except maybe valve float? but idk if the stock cam can cause that. Not the problems your having, with my Explorer intake my car will rev up to 6k rpm no problem, but my stock heads are not allowing me to make power up there. I went to the track with the new intake, reved it to 5800 and was pulling 13.5's, next run shifted at 5400 ran a 13.3. Even though you can rev high dosent mean its better. Your stock heads are choking.

90_Red_LX · Sep 27, 2006

Took the plate off the side of my intake and the inside is nearly oil free. Just a little bit in the vaccuum tree but it wasn't puddled or anything. Same for the intake the valve cover hose, a sign that oil had been in there but not a lot. Next is the comp test I guess. I'm gonna be very p/o'd if it puts out ugly numbers.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Sep 27, 2006

hey mob, Im in the process of putting a new shortblock in the stang and im gonna use some gt40p heads, and am wondering will the valve springs bottom out with a e cam and 1.7 rockers, I think they will hold but cant find a conclusive answer. Also gonna use a gt40/ exploder intake, I got one the other day for 40 in new shape and sold it for 180bucks in 2 hours!!! LOL

i think my motor may be on its way out

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