I want your internal combustion input

[motocrossed733]

I have just disassembled my 5.0 engine and bought the block to a machinist, my question is what type of piston to run I am going forged for the possibility of a supercharger in the future, but flat, domed,etc, help. I am running a trickflow twisted wedge combo to be put on. also are the ARP rod bolts a good idea? any other good thoughts or ideas while it is out and a part?

 

[347HO]

I suggest you use a dished piston.
The cc will depend on block deck height, piston to deck height and combustion chamber cc in order to attain the static compression ratio you want.

I also suggest you go with a new set of rods and pistons.
You get good hardware with a good set.
In most cases, the aftermarket pieces will be stronger.
You can do some research on the lightweight versions too.

 

[FastDriver]

This really comes down to personal preference, but it in my opinion it depends on how serious you are about throwing on the blower. Are you going to stroke the motor? The thing is, the strongest forged parts in the world are not going to make that engine safe from failure at 600 rwhp or more. Depending on the blower, you'll be capable of block splitting power regardless of the piston you choose.

I certainly advise against going with a domed piston if this is a street car. Bumping up compression and mixing it with boost is usually a bad idea without some high octane fuel.

The reason my preference would be for a flat piston is because I'd keep the compression from 9:1 to 9.5:1, which will still keep your low end torque while the car is n/a, and will also give you some room to apply plenty of boost once you get the blower.

Chris

 

[motocrossed733]

Thanks Nothing crazy going to be going on like over 500 hp. I am going to go for about 400 with the trick flow kit, a strong complete exhaust and all the bolt on stuff should be close. I have heard that the stock rods coupled along with an upgraded bolt is stronger than the roller cam block itself up to 550-600 hp. The dished piston are what I pulled out of it in stock form with the valve reliefs? how about hyper vs. forged ?

 

[347HO]

RPMs will break that block before HP in N/A form.
Yes a bad tune can break any engine... why would you do that?
You must pay attention to details if you're looking for 400+.
I'm not saying you can't reach your goal with stock rods, but I'm letting you know it isn't just the bolt that makes the rod cap stronger and resilient to stretch.
"IF" you do your research, you'll find more reasons to use a "real" dished piston over any other piston for your application.
You're considering a boost setup with a cost over 1000.00 (supercharger only) and you want to compare a cheap Hyper piston over a Forged?

 

[motocrossed733]

you sound like you are a politician running for office, it is a simple question thanks for nothing.

 

[347HO]

you sound like you are a politician running for office, it is a simple question thanks for nothing.

If you're too ignorant to build the engine correctly, you then should "pay" for a professional to get it done.
There are a lot of people like you who ask all the right questions, but won't make the effort to learn for yourself, go forward against the best suggestions and information, build a "turd", then blame it on the information given to you.
You're welcome for nothing... I didn't receive a penny from you, and I'm sure you haven't paid anyone else here for your "free" and good, honest information.

 

[millhouse]

If you are using the stock block, I wouldn’t invest any more than you have to in the rotating assembly. If it were me (I’ve done it already), I would get the block cleaned, checked & honed. Have them throw new cam bearings in and make sure the decks are flat and square to the world. I’d then proceed to throw the stock rotating assembly back in it with new bearings, bolts and studs where needed. It will support all of the horsepower the block can handle under forced induction setups. Make sure your tune is spot on and keep the RPM’s below 6k and you just might make it last. In the end…there is no guarantee that you’re block isn’t going to split like Paris Hilton exiting a limo.

 

[strtrcr50]

you sound like you are a politician running for office, it is a simple question thanks for nothing.

He's just trying to help.
If you are doing a HCI and a blower combo, you can make enough hp to split the block. The factory rotating assembly will hold together longer than the block in most cases. What year is your motor that came apart? I want to say 87-92 came with forged pistons that will be ok as long as your valves will clear and that will depend on the cam. I know with my combo of twisted wedge heads and a comp 284hr, I'll be close, but won't know for sure till I clay the pistons. I too will be upgrading the rod bolts to arp, but until I can afford a real block, I don't see much point in an upgraded rotating assembly.
Keep in mind, if you change the pistons, you really should rebalance the rotating assembly.

 

[Foxfan88]

i'm with millhouse, dont upgrade the bottom end parts. the block will split before the rods and crank etc.

as for the pistons, forged are stronger but there are alot of people running hypereutectic pistons on blower/turbo cars, a good safe tune goes a long way.