I'm not an idle strategy expert and I haven't used that plate you have.
But, I would try to adjust the idle down as low as I could (700rpm or so) and keep it running, using the idle screw and probably your new adjuster.
I would also check the TPS voltage and make sure it is just under one volt. Say, .96 or a bit less.
Then, I'd disconnect the battery for around 20 minutes, start it, and let it relearn the idle. There are a few different ways to relearn idle depending on what book you read. Regardless of method, it usually gets it under control within 20 miles of stop and go city driving.
Here is the one I've been using "lately" and it seems to work well...
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Credit: Darrin Tebbe
1. Clear the EEC-IV's idle memory by disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes.
2. Disconnect the Idle air bypass solonoid
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM with stop screw on throttle body (900 rpm works great with E303 or larger cam)
5.Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid
*Optional (edit: not in MY opinion) -- set TPS to 0.90 - 0.95 volts (Do not exceed 1.0 volts MAKE SURE!) Use a digital volt meter!
6. Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on.
7. Turn off engine for two minutes
8. Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with every accessory turned on.
9. Turn engine off again. Your computer should have now re-learned the new idle settings. This procedure assumes that you have a clean IAB valve. If it is carbon-ed up then you may need to remove it and clean it with carburetor cleaner
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Good luck, stable idle can be a painful quest... After my motor build, I could hardly keep mine running at all. I let it learn at almost 900 rpm. After it became stable there with a couple days of driving, I eventually was able to get it down to 700 rpm... I'm sure something logical was worng, but I never found it. Runs fine now... Weird...