Ideas for building boost friendly stock blocked 306 (S-trim) for daily driver?

5spd GT · Sep 3, 2005

Well I've been tossing around ideas on what I would like to do for my car and I have 159k on my car right now with the h/c/i combo on my car. This is my only car/daily driver. I really would like to rebuild the bottomend for piece of mind.

What kind of parts would be nice to add boost to (keeping stock block). Forged pistons/rods. Would the crank be okay...just have it undercut .010? What kind of compression would I want preferabably. I have the 58cc AFR's. I would like pistons that would lower the compression down a bit and maybe have bigger valve reliefs (one in the same?).

I want to keep it as reliable as possible. I would think the power would be around 410rwhp I think with a nice conservative tune I could "daily drive" it.

Suggestions welcome...

(just looking for thoughts)

Lyncher · Sep 3, 2005

possibly forged rods and pistons...but I dont know if that is necesary.. ...eiher way good luck

txstang84 · Sep 3, 2005

the stock rods are forged, the crank is nodular and should be able to handle 410 reliably...but I'd probably buy a new 28oz crank, and some scat rods, with some pistons that would yield stock cr and run about 6-8psi for that power level expectation...of course what i'm recommending is pretty much all theory, I'm in the process of choosing a blower and boost levels as well-shooting for 400-450whp with a 331

add'l info: 28oz cranks have a little more meat in the counterweights, that's why i'd choose one of them, but with the heavier cranks, you need to buy the accompanying balancer and flywheel...but I'm betting you probably already knew that

5spd GT · Sep 4, 2005

Thanks for the replies

bump time.

QDRHRSE · Sep 4, 2005

Rebuild the stock motor with good hardware and you should be ok. Stock compression should be fine. I don't recommend more than 12lbs of boost if its a driver [using an S Trim]. At 159k you will probably need pistons. Use all ARP bolts and you can approach 500hp with no problems. The key is good machine work and balancing.

BaXTeR3221 · Sep 4, 2005

If your going to get new pistons and what not, might as well lower the compression a little bit while your at it. 8.5:1 is usually good boost number.

5spd GT · Sep 4, 2005

Yeah I wanted pistons that lower the compression or help. I don't want it to low in case I do run out of money to put a supercharger on. What specific pistons would be good or suggested? ring type?

What arp bolts are needed. I would getting nice headgaskets/arp head studs.

I would want a new pump and all.

So ya'll think the stock rods could be reused?

I want lighter forged pistons if possible.

QDRHRSE · Sep 4, 2005

....you hit it right on the head. I always like to know there's still a little boogie left in it if the belt comes off.

txstang84 · Sep 4, 2005

suggested pistons-imo-probe, speed-pro, something of that ilk, I'd go for about stock comp... 9-9.2:1.

ARP rod bolts: 154-6002
ARP head studs: 154-4005
Head gaskets: 1011-1, 1011-2, 9333-pt1, or whatever AFR recommends
oil pump: Melling 10687-std vol/press...10668 high vol/std press (i'm guessing that's what you were talking about)

Yes, the stock rods can be reused with the ARP rod bolts...you're honestly not looking for such a high amount of power that the internals are gonna come flying out. When you take it to the machine shop, have them balance the bottom end as well...$200 well spent

90mustangGT · Sep 4, 2005

I've always heard the limits of the stock 302 are the block itself, that the rods and crank will outlast the block. Although they usually split right up the middle across the cam bores and lifter valley, I could imagine a stud girtle keeping the bottom of the block more steady not transfering more energy through the block, making it more capable of holding more power. Good fasteners (bolts) are always a good idea.

Lower compression will actually hurt power, the only thing it's good for is allowing more space for more air, which can be added by more boost. You could run 10:1 compression maby more and still run 9psi boost assuming the tune and fuel is good, have no problems and make more power than a 8.5:1 compression engine with the same specs. If something broke it would be the power level, not detonation.

5spd GT · Sep 4, 2005

txstang84 said:
suggested pistons-imo-probe, speed-pro, something of that ilk, I'd go for about stock comp... 9-9.2:1.

ARP rod bolts: 154-6002
ARP head studs: 154-4005
Head gaskets: 1011-1, 1011-2, 9333-pt1, or whatever AFR recommends
oil pump: Melling 10687-std vol/press...10668 high vol/std press (i'm guessing that's what you were talking about)

Yes, the stock rods can be reused with the ARP rod bolts...you're honestly not looking for such a high amount of power that the internals are gonna come flying out. When you take it to the machine shop, have them balance the bottom end as well...$200 well spent

So those are the best ARP rod bolts that I need right?

Thanks for the part numbers

I just want the rods to be strong enough...seems like they will be.

I will get it balanced for sure...

So what needs to be done to the crankshaft...because I'll be getting new bearings/pump/etc. Won't it need to be undercut .010 to match new bearings?

90MustangGt - Yeah I was thinking of getting around 9:2-9:5:1 type compression ratio to keep it "okay" N/A.

I plan on either getting a s/c trim (upgrade letter) or get the S trim. Depends on money at the time...

I'm not going to be running "alot" of boost so what do I do about ring gap clearance or type? Just trying to get an idea of what I'm shopping for...

Thanks for all your replies..I appreciate it

mustangmarks · Sep 4, 2005

90mustangGT said:
I've always heard the limits of the stock 302 are the block itself, that the rods and crank will outlast the block. Although they usually split right up the middle across the cam bores and lifter valley, I could imagine a stud girtle keeping the bottom of the block more steady not transfering more energy through the block, making it more capable of holding more power. Good fasteners (bolts) are always a good idea.

Lower compression will actually hurt power, the only thing it's good for is allowing more space for more air, which can be added by more boost. You could run 10:1 compression maby more and still run 9psi boost assuming the tune and fuel is good, have no problems and make more power than a 8.5:1 compression engine with the same specs. If something broke it would be the power level, not detonation.

I agree I would go with a 10:1 piston ,main girtle and 8lbs of boost and you'll have a ball with the car. I your gonna rebuild it go all out. If its built right it should be pretty reliable. Good luck

Aliate X · Sep 4, 2005

txstang84 said:
the stock rods are forged, the crank is nodular and should be able to handle 410 reliably...but I'd probably buy a new 28oz crank, and some scat rods, with some pistons that would yield stock cr and run about 6-8psi for that power level expectation...of course what i'm recommending is pretty much all theory, I'm in the process of choosing a blower and boost levels as well-shooting for 400-450whp with a 331

add'l info: 28oz cranks have a little more meat in the counterweights, that's why i'd choose one of them, but with the heavier cranks, you need to buy the accompanying balancer and flywheel...but I'm betting you probably already knew that

stock pre 93 pistons are forged not rods. Identifiable by the brown oil pan I believe.

5spd GT · Sep 4, 2005

AliateX - It is a gray oil pan that signifies the forged pistons. I have a black oil pan.

So what are the stock rods?

Ideas for building boost friendly stock blocked 306 (S-trim) for daily driver?

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