Idle issues

#21
I would lean a little towards the larger MAF but I had the problem before replacing the old/original MAF. I have not set the tps yet as I have not had time. I will check for vacuum leaks as all of the hoses and such are the original. Not sure when I will do this but I will report back anything that I find. I appreciate everyone's help.
 
#22
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I had a deal I couldnt resist for the 70mm tb, so I went with it and sold the 65mm. Ive had the intake on for some time and havent had to mess with it for some time. I bought the IAB solenoid and valve from checker or autozone, I'd have to check to be sure. I cleaned everything out including the MAF. I had the tool to pull it apart to get to the filamant and got some material off of it. With regard to re-setting the codes, I have a code reader that will do that after testing. I did also have the battery disconnected for over five minutes... I also have the spacer plate for the IAB and installed it when my idle was loping and it corrected the problem. I changed to the 70mm after that. When I ran the codes and started replacing things and cleared the codes, my intermittent check engine light stopped coming on at a specific rpm like it used to. The car ran great, seemed to have some more power then a few weeks later started doing the same thing. Its like a Poltergeist or something. Everything seems fine, then the throttle just starts creeping up on its own. If driving for a while without stopping I can tell it has started again cause I get a sort of cruise control thing going on. I think it may also be temperature related b/c it doest happen unless Ive driven for a while. What ever the problem is, when driving or having the motor running I have no problems after turning the key off then back on. Thats ok for a temp fix, but it cant be good (or safe) for any long term. I dont want to mess up my flywheel or starter teeth. I dont have to turn the key fwd to the start position, but just to the on position. I can hear a slight grind though when I do this. Im wondering if it could be a failing TPS... The voltage was in spec last time I checked, but someone else I talked to gave me that tip. I was told that if the TPS starts to go bad, it doesnt work properly through its range and may send an erroneous signal to the EEC. I dont know... Anything else anyone can think of? I'll try to get the code reader back on it soon and see if anything comes up...
 
#23
as someone eluded to, if messing around, clean the salt and pepper connectors. more than one surging/idle issue has been fixed with their cleaning.
good luck.
 
#24
Yeah, thats something Ive considered and dread. The car was serviced for a recall on them and now there are four instead of two... They are a nightmare to get loose since theyre all bunched up in there. I hate it when I break the securing clips... Then there's the issue of testing them. When re-attaching what type of connection gunk is used? Dielectric grease? It looks too tan...
 
#25
If you bought the IAB valve from autozone, and it's the wells brand make sure you install it backwards like the instructions say. I learned this the hard way, after buying a bunch of other ****. Turns out after reading a few threads the wells brand has to be installed backwards.
 
#27
No, the whole valve. Instead of having the valve pointing down towards your valve cover, rotate it so it's pointing the opposite way. Searching for the best way to explain it, so how about a picture!

bootleg.gif


Hope you get the idea, PM if you need help.
 
#29
Man, I was having idle issues to the max. The car would warm up then all the sudden the idle would sit at 1500 and I would have to turn the car off let it sit for a minute before it stopped. The car had really bad hanging idle coming to a stop, sit at like 1500 them slowly drop. I was running the IAC unplugged for awhile because it was pissing me off. Then I ran across a thread where a kid was saying to install the wells brand backwards, sure enough it fixed it. I've replaced a few things as well, new TPS, IAT (idle air temperature sensor), and I cleaned the little wires on my MAF with alcohol (be gentle) and my idle is great now. Hope this helps, flip the valve let me know what happens.
 
#31
I had problems prior to the new valve. So after replacing misc things I bought the new wells IAC valve. After installation the idle problems still existed, up until like yesterday when I flipped the valve and it fixed it. I have a habit of not reading instructions and it's ****ed me many times.
 
#32
I am having a heck of a time setting my new TPS. I cannot get a reading. I adjusted it by ear but I know that it is not correct. My IAC is Ford so I guess I do not have to flip it upside down like the Wells. I am still having idle issues hear and there. Yes, it is like having gremlins in the system as the idle just floats up by itself. Very strange! Please advise on the TPS adjustment.
 
#33
You use a volt meter... Back probe both wires going to it, and loose the retaining screws just slightly. You want .97-.99 of volts when the throttle is at idle. You adjust it by moving the tps clockwise and counter until you get the voltage you need.

Nick
 
#36
Ok - I have stumped my mechanic now. I have replaced the tps, maf (75mm), iac, and a coolant sensor (my mechnic replaced the sensor). He also set the tps and thought that he had it fixed. I thought so too until I got home and went back out. The idle jumped back up to anywhere between 1200 and 2200 RPMs. This is so bizarre! I have baffled my mechanic which is very hard to do. His expertise is with mustangs and has a 600+ horsepower 418 himself. Someone has mentioned that the 75mm maf could be the problem now. If that is true then why does it happen here and there and not all of the time. Anyhow, does anyone have anymore things to try? Someone has also mentioned cleaning those salt and pepper shaker looking connectors. Again, wouldn't the bad idle happen all of the time if there was a bad connection of sorts. I am way past wits end here.
 
#40
Well, I cleaned and 'expanded' the 10-pin's and put them back together with fresh dielectric grease. Idle was great for three days and then it went back to its old ways--fine until warm and then high/hanging until after the engine is shut down/restarted. Back to the drawing board... :bang:

Anybody have any news on their search for a fix?
 
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