If I stroke my engine, what exactly is entailed?

jerry S · Nov 30, 2005

I have tasted 400 hp and ME LIKEY BEAUCOUP but I need more and I think that stroking is the cheapest way to go.

I know I need a new crank and pistons. I can keep my forged Eagle rods. What else is requried? Can I reuse the old rings? They are basically new.

I am aware that I also need a machine shop to balance the assembly and do some machine work on the block to get the crank to fit. How much work does that involve to pull the engine and do that work? I am trying to figure out how much shop time I should be looking at so I can get a realistic estimate of parts and labor.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 30, 2005

Wow that is going to cost a lot if you are having a shop do it. It takes time to do something like that, it is simple, but tedious. You went through everything in your post. You will need to have the block checked and possibly bored. You will definitely need new rings and a hone. Good Luck Jerry.

302 coupe · Nov 30, 2005

if you go with a 393, you'll need a crank, can reuse your rods, and you'll need 302 pistons. Anytime you tear an engine down, you should hone the cylinders and install new rings. I don't think there is much clearancing involved with a 393, but that might depend on which parts you use. I hear scat makes the best cranks, with eagle being a close second. Definately get everything balanced. I have no idea on shop labor, but it won't be cheap. Figure new forged pistons and good crank for roughly $1000, then incidentals like gaskets, fluids, etc. Balancing normally runs around $200 here. 2 hours to remove engine, 2 hours to tear it down, 6-8 hours to reassemble, 4-5 hours to reinstall and get everything hooked up. Maybe $1500 total for parts/etc, then $2k-3k for labor at a typical professional performance shop.

jerry S · Nov 30, 2005

302 coupe said:
Maybe $1500 total for parts/etc, then $2k-3k for labor at a typical professional performance shop.

Doh!

I was a fool to pass it up when I had the chance. I just had the whole engine redone last year and I declined because the guy building my car told me that I would not want a 450 hp or more street car. He convinced me to rebuild using the same crank (honed, polished, shotpeened, etc) and new forged rods and pistons and that I would be more than happy with a car putting down 300 hp/400 ft lbs at the wheels. Boy was he wrong. Oh well. I had my shot and I passed it up. Kind of like that time I could have nailed Sandy Scott but didn't. Two bad decisions I will regret for the rest of my life.

302 coupe · Nov 30, 2005

you could do it yourself, assuming you have the space, for just the price of parts/etc. and having it balanced. I think I could do it in 2 weeks worth of weeknight work, or 2 complete weekends give or take a few hours. Its not hard if you've ever built an engine before.

jerry S · Nov 30, 2005

302 coupe said:
you could do it yourself, assuming you have the space, for just the price of parts/etc. and having it balanced. I think I could do it in 2 weeks worth of weeknight work, or 2 complete weekends give or take a few hours. Its not hard if you've ever built an engine before.

1. no space
2. never built an engine before

just gonna have to live with what I have

LMan · Nov 30, 2005

jerry S said:
Kind of like that time I could have nailed Sandy Scott but didn't.

Don't beat yourself up about it......she wasn't that good.

jasonn · Nov 30, 2005

I agree with trying to build it yourself, but if space and experience is limited, then I would try someone like DSS or Probe or another good reputable engine builder. You could also just order a shortblock and put your heads and accesories on.

jerry S · Nov 30, 2005

LMan said:
Don't beat yourself up about it......she wasn't that good.

No, she really was. She was a high school and college swimming champ. 5'9, 140 with 6 pack abs, did not need a bra because she had stand up boobies, and was so pretty. I, on the other hand, was as clueless and stupid as she was hot. amnit:

jerry S · Nov 30, 2005

jasonn said:
I agree with trying to build it yourself, but if space and experience is limited, then I would try someone like DSS or Probe or another good reputable engine builder. You could also just order a shortblock and put your heads and accesories on.

That ship has sailed. Shipping, duty, and VAT on such an engine would equal the purchase price.

steel1212 · Nov 30, 2005

LMan said:
Don't beat yourself up about it......she wasn't that good.

..............mmmm 6 pack....time to go to the store lol.

10secgoal · Dec 1, 2005

Just sounds like it's time to throw on a 8lb blower and be done with it. Even has to be cheaper, and torque out the ying yang.

jerry S · Dec 1, 2005

10secgoal said:
Just sounds like it's time to throw on a 8lb blower and be done with it. Even has to be cheaper, and torque out the ying yang.

11:1 CR + 8lb blower = KABOOM!

I looked into dishing the pistons to lower the CR but that cannot be done without removing too much material.

1320stang · Dec 1, 2005

Are you gonna talk dirty to it too?

10secgoal · Dec 1, 2005

Where there is a will there is a way. Ever heard of Alky injection ?

jerry S · Dec 1, 2005

10secgoal said:
Where there is a will there is a way. Ever heard of Alky injection ?

Isn't it just like NOS where you have to activate it or is it "always on?"

If I stroke my engine, what exactly is entailed?

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