If you had...

[drk]

I've got a 66 with a 289 in it right now. It was rebuilt (so I'm told) about 5 years ago. The man who drove it before maybe put 2k miles on it. The engine itself is fine. I just don't know what's in there... Stock components I guess. Anyhow, everything else is stock. Carb, rad, dist, etc. etc. This car is my resto project, so without plowing money into heads, headers, what would you replace with 1500 dollars?

For example, is it worth switching over to a serpentine belt conversion? Or switch to an aluminum radiator, electric fan. My goal is to keep the 289, but make it as efficient as possible ie. reduce parasitic loss in every aspect of the engine, get the best spark and all that. I do plan on getting some vic. jr heads, and a nice cam to compliment it, but first I want to modernize some stuff in the engine bay. So what are your ideas guys?

 

[D.Hearne]

Electronic igniton conversion, that'll run you $150 for a Pertronix II and a hotter coil. A bigger aluminum radiator would also come in handy for power upgrades. Add an electric fan to go with it. Keep the V belt drive after that, serpentine will gain you nothing. Then a high rise dual plane intake and 4 bbl carb (Performer RPM, std or air gap, Weiand Stealth, or Ford A321 are good choices here) Don't be afraid to shop for these in the used parts bin, intakes don't wear out. Carb? Holley 570 Street Avenger, or a list 80783 650 cfm vac secondary are my favorites. You'll likely never find these used though. A Holley list 1850- 600 cfm can be had used though for $100-150 in nearly new condition on ebay. Do the headers, why wait?

 

[ultrastang]

This is not because I sell conversion brackets to adapt disc brakes --you have a whole host of other people/companies besides myself that sell brake parts to choose from...

But, my opinion is before you increase the power of your engine, get your brakes and suspension on par with handling those engine enhancement changes.

Going fast is a lot of fun, but it's not worth anything if your car cannot safely, predictably, handle the increased power from the engine.

 

[Cobain03]

i say leave the engine and do worthy upgrades. do aluminum rad and elec. fan (i got mine from Northern Raditor as a combo), do electrnic ignition and a set of mufflers to make it sound good. Brakes are worth it but very expensive for a disk swap.

 

[drk]

See, I'm tackling this in sections.

I've already got my plans drawn out for brakes and a full front end suspension rebuild. I was just talking about modernizing some of the engine parts that people normally overlook. I assure you, suspension and brakes will be upgraded well before I start throwing more power in the car. The purpose of this car is a good cruiser/backroad carver. I would buy your brake kit, but I kind of want to keep to a 16 inch wheel, and not many kits allow me to do so.

 

[ultrastang]

See, I'm tackling this in sections.

I've already got my plans drawn out for brakes and a full front end suspension rebuild. I was just talking about modernizing some of the engine parts that people normally overlook. I assure you, suspension and brakes will be upgraded well before I start throwing more power in the car. The purpose of this car is a good cruiser/backroad carver. I would buy your brake kit, but I kind of want to keep to a 16 inch wheel, and not many kits allow me to do so.

Any of the rear disc setups I have: Mk VII, SN95 V6/GT or SN95 Cobra will all fit under a 16" wheel.

 

[danny clemens]

See, I'm tackling this in sections.

I've already got my plans drawn out for brakes and a full front end suspension rebuild. I was just talking about modernizing some of the engine parts that people normally overlook. I assure you, suspension and brakes will be upgraded well before I start throwing more power in the car. The purpose of this car is a good cruiser/backroad carver. I would buy your brake kit, but I kind of want to keep to a 16 inch wheel, and not many kits allow me to do so.

I know this is later on but if this is going to be a cruiser I'd forget the Vic Jr. heads and buy some smaller heads. For the engine upgrades I'm going to parrot what DHearne said. I'd go the intake, carb, headers and Pertronix ignition. Think ahead to what you want your final package to be (heads and cam) so you can buy these parts to match.

 

[57fairlane]

I would leave the motor alone right now and do the other stuff too

First, I would find a decent transmission, especially one with overdrive.
If you are planning on having a decent motor down the road get at least a tremec 3550. Or you could go with a built AOD if you want a auto.

Subframe connectors . . . build the rear end/swap to a different set of gears.

The motor stuff is easy but doesn't provide near the satisfaction of actually wanting to cruise in the thing.

 

[rbohm]

you are budgeting $1500 for engine upgrades, then here is what i recommend;

a set of world products windsor jr heads. these will add about 40hp as a bolt on, and you can get a set ready to run for less than $1000.

a performer rpm intake with a 500-600cfm carb. i prefer the edelbrock, but the holley that DH recommended is a good choice also.

an electronic ignition. i used a duraspark dist, with a chrysler orange ignition box, and wiring harness. i have a total of $100 in my ignition system with new and used parts.

i would also add a set of tri-y headers with dual exhaust.

if you shop judiciously you can do all this for less than $1500

 

[fordkid]

I would second the engine upgrades, such as performer rpm intake, 500 to 600 cfm carb and headers along with some heads. my 302 was stock when I dropped it in my 66, I drove it around for a few months and then added the performer RPM intake, a 600cfm eldbrock carb with shelby tri-y headers and some flows on straight pipes. And boy did it make a difference. if I had the money I would of gotten a good set of heads, it would of made a much bigger difference.


Ford Kid

 

[SoCalCruising]

Yeah, forget the Vic jr heads unless you stroke the motor to at least 331. They are too big, in my opinion, and you will end up with sluggish performance under 3-4K RPM. Twisted Wedge heads would be much better if you stroke it even to just a 302, which is uber cheap. If you do carb/intake/ignition/headers, you won't over-tax your suspension and brakes, but you really should place suspension/brakes high on the list. That was the first thing I did (see sig for everything) and I don't regret doing it that way.

 

[drk]

First off, I found a dang crack in the stock radiator last night. Looks like I'm upgrading that. Does anyone know of a good aluminum radiator that's a direct replacement? With electrical fan?

Second, can I stroke the 289 block to a 302? And if I do, I should be looking at around 300 to the wheels, correct?

 

[BullittStangV8]

I would go with:
new distributor, new coil, new ignition box, new plug wires. I went with MSD for this, and my car fires up first time. Its amazing.
Then, I would get that radiator fixed. I wouldnt worry about an electric fan so much. Anyone have any idea how much HP a flex fan costs you? I dont know, but I like the reliability and generally good cooling of a mounted fan.
Then, the brakes. After that, the power mods are your choice. If your goal is to make a built motor, then I may suggest getting away from the 289 block, and steping up to a 302 block, as it opens up allot of other options like 331's,347's, ect.

 

[rbohm]

First off, I found a dang crack in the stock radiator last night. Looks like I'm upgrading that. Does anyone know of a good aluminum radiator that's a direct replacement? With electrical fan?

Second, can I stroke the 289 block to a 302? And if I do, I should be looking at around 300 to the wheels, correct?

why bother stroking the stock 289? if all you want is around 300hp at the wheels then build the 289 as it will do that. as for stroking to a 302, that is exactly what the factory did in 1968. but if you want a stroker motor, build a 331 instead, and you can use the 289 block.

 

[SoCalCruising]

Yeah, there is very little, if any, difference between the 289 and 302 cylinder bores in terms of length. A 302 is cheap because you can find a used rotating assembly easy - there are a lots of these around from guys who stroked their 302s to 331/347. Crank and rods will cost next to nothing. The machining will cost something, but that's the way it goes. The differential cost will largely be reconditioning the rods and crank, if needed. Pistons will depend on whether you get forged ones or hypereutectics. Or, re-use your 289 pistons, if they are good. The 302 and 289 use the same pistons - the rod length change compensates for the increased stroke. You can also re-use your 289 heads - you will get a free bump in compression, but not too much to cause a problem. When you are ready to upgrade your heads, your choices are better with the 302 because compression will be better - there are very few choices of heads below 58cc (comb. chamber vol.) and a 289 needs something less than that.

However, if all you do is stroke it, the hp number only go up slightly, but torque will go up more and at a lower RPM peak. To realize more hp, you will need more intake/heads/cam/headers.

 

[mrmustangman357]

there are a few guys in the classifieds section selling Twisted wedge heads and edelbrock heads for ~1000. these are good heads to have.

+1 on the brakes.

 

[steemin]

This is not because I sell conversion brackets to adapt disc brakes --you have a whole host of other people/companies besides myself that sell brake parts to choose from...

But, my opinion is before you increase the power of your engine, get your brakes and suspension on par with handling those engine enhancement changes.

Going fast is a lot of fun, but it's not worth anything if your car cannot safely, predictably, handle the increased power from the engine.

BIG +1

While you are at it a 3 point seat belt conversion is also a wise investment

 

[drk]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm not new to cars, just old mustangs. I thought stroking a 302 would be super easy/cheap. I'll just wait to build a stroker.

Twisted wedge heads, eh? I suppose something like a comp cam extreme series cam to compliment it... But I know next to nothing about a head swap for the 289's. I will be throwing in a T-5 with 4.10 gears.


Since my rad has a crack, I've been looking around. Any good things about PWR radiators? http://www.cal-mustang.com/showdetl-7-7113-19-0.html

This guy should bolt right in, right?

With the brake situation, I really don't feel like custom making brake lines, flanging stuff, etc. The Baer kit looks attractive.

 

[rbohm]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm not new to cars, just old mustangs. I thought stroking a 302 would be super easy/cheap. I'll just wait to build a stroker.

Twisted wedge heads, eh? I suppose something like a comp cam extreme series cam to compliment it... But I know next to nothing about a head swap for the 289's.

building any engine regardless of brand follows the same principles. get the air/fuel mixture in and out as efficiently as possible in the rpm range you want the engine to work most efficiently. it doesnt matter if you are building a small block ford, big block chevy, 392 hemi, the engine doesnt care about the name on the valve covers, it only knows how the air and fuel is getting into the engine. if you have built late model 302's, then you have built an early 289 also since the engines are basically the same.

I will be throwing in a T-5 with 4.10 gears.

i like the T5, but unless you are going racing, i would use a set of 3.55 gears rather than the 4.10's. remember that the T5 has either a 2.95 or 3.35 first geat, and even with the 3.55's it makes for a short first gear. with 4.10's first gear is useless. on the other hand if you were going to use an AOD then i would go with the 4.10's since the AOD has a 2.46 first gear.

Since my rad has a crack, I've been looking around. Any good things about PWR radiators? http://www.cal-mustang.com/showdetl-7-7113-19-0.html

This guy should bolt right in, right?

i dont know anything about PWR rads, but california mustang is in hte business of selling parts that fit, so likely the rad should bolt in with few problems.

With the brake situation, I really don't feel like custom making brake lines, flanging stuff, etc. The Baer kit looks attractive.

dont have to worry about making brake lines. there are companies like classic tube and inline tube that will make brake lines for you. either stock replacement lines, or send them drawings and/or patterns for custom lines, and they will bend them up and flare the ends for you. same with fuel lines.