ignition/altenator question

craigwhite89gt

New Member

Oct 26, 2003

181

0

0

Cecil County Maryland

Dec 25, 2004

#1

• Dec 25, 2004

• #1

First off here are my mods.
Intake--Trick Flow Street Intake manifold--70mm TB--24lb inj--headers--X pipe-- exhaust-- AC Delete bypass smog pump-- 70mm mass air--


Now my questions are i jus got a MSD6al, And i need to order a coil, and i want to order the MSD dist. But my question is do i need to order a better altenator?? i dont know much about the electronics on cars so im not sure if the MSD ignition puttin out more spark is gonna take away from the lights and what not... cuz i know if im at a stop light with my turn signal on and headlights on im at like 9V according to my stock gauge.

Any input would help

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Dec 25, 2004

#2

• Dec 25, 2004

• #2

one should never see 9 volts period IMHO (i dont even like to see it that low while CRANKING). the computer needs decent and somewhat (being loosely defined) stable voltage to function properly (the more stable the voltage is, the better). same idea for the box (stable voltage is always better and easier on electronics).

BTW, have you checked the volts with a decent DMM or are you using the stock voltmeter as a reference?

good luck.

 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL

In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions

Mar 10, 2000

27,512

2,813

234

Dublin GA

Dec 25, 2004

#3

• Dec 25, 2004

• #3

I'm with Hissin50 - check the voltage with a real voltmeter and fix it if it is low. That will do more for performance than the MSD setup. Autozone & some other auto parts stores will do a charging system check for FREE.

The stock ignition is supposed to be good up to 400 HP without power adders. The use of forced induction & NO2 are usually the main reasons to go with a better ignition system.

 

craigwhite89gt

New Member

Oct 26, 2003

181

0

0

Cecil County Maryland

Dec 25, 2004

#4

• Dec 25, 2004

• #4

well i do belive that its losing quite a bit of power at idle, due to the fact the lights dim a bit and if i have heat on high u can here the fan speed up once i hit the gas. The car has 166,000 on it and i still have right to belive the altenator is eithier original or real old replacement, plus in the future (Spring) i will be putting in a rebuilt 302 with F cam, and some decent heads, which i plan on spraying or supercharging. but as of right now im building up everything up around the long block so when time comes all i have to do is pull motor out put new 1 in...

 

T

TheUser

Active Member

Jul 25, 2003

1,859

1

36

Springfield, MO

Dec 25, 2004

#5

• Dec 25, 2004

• #5

I say either pull your alt and bum a ride to autozone or drive there, pull the alt off in the parking lot and have them check it out. If it's not pushing adequate volts, replace it. You might also check your battery cables out. Also, use a good Digital MultiMeter and check the voltage for yourself at the battery instead of relying on the stock guages.

I believe the stock alt is 65amps, so if you do have to replace it, you might consider a 95amp or go all the way and do the 3g upgrade (130amps) and call it a day. There are plenty 3g alt write-ups, search and you'll probably find them.

 

craigwhite89gt

New Member

Oct 26, 2003

181

0

0

Cecil County Maryland

Dec 26, 2004

#6

• Dec 26, 2004

• #6

im jus gonna go with a 130 and get the pain over with

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Dec 26, 2004

#7

• Dec 26, 2004

• #7

craigwhite89gt said:

im jus gonna go with a 130 and get the pain over with

Click to expand...

unless you are simply wanting to upgrade even if the alternator is not at fault, i would follow the advice of JR and TU - get it tested on the vehicle or bench tested. nothing like replacing a part which was not the cause of the problem.

im not tryin to come off like a jerk - but that has happened before.

my two cents. good luck.