Ignition Issues - long post

HammerG26 · Jan 13, 2006

I have a 66 A code. Tonight I was adjusting the fuel mixture, idle speed and checking the timing. I adjusted the idle speed and then set the fuel mixture according to the Ford Shop Manual. I then checked the time and realized I had not set it correctly the first time (it was set way to high - I could not read the markings well enough the first time). I reset it to 6 degrees BTDC. I took the car on a test drive. It ran great under full acceleration but when I was "cruising" - guessing 2500 - 3500 (no tach), the car was missing (or sounded like it). No big deal, I think - I will check the timing and make adjustments. Here is where it gets bad...
1. Timing light won't work - or so I think - the light was working, just sending out a flash every 4 - 6 seconds.
2. Take the #1 plug wire off, to see if the wire is the issue - the car's idle does not change (the car was running). Is this normal??? I kind of figured the car's idle would change, even a little...
3. Car is still running rough, even after setting the timing more advanced (by "guessing - looking at the vacuum advance's pointed direction)...
I have no idea what I did wrong. I am going to check all of the plug wires again tomorrow - perhaps I accidentally loosened one.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

ddonaca351 · Jan 14, 2006

If you pulled the #1 wire and it ran the same, then it was missing on #1 to start with, so check the wire with an ohm meter (should be <3-400 ohm per foot ...real good wires are like 50 ohm/ft)
Also check inside the dizzy, could be something loose or mis-adjusted
Also check the cap for cracks or contamination on the posts inside the cap
Also check the plug gap, it should be about .030 with stock type ignition, or .040-.045 with a big killer coil/box combo. If its too wide or if the insulator is cracked it will kill the fire, but since the timing light was intermittent it is probably up stream of the plug.

If none of those help, then get back to us and well start fishing...

DD

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

OK - the wires (Taylor SpiroPro from Summit) registered 485 for the full length wires (greater than a foot), the coil wire (about a foot) registered 385 or so - I thought those were supposed to be really good wires... guess not.
Dizzy cap looked good, as did the rotor, and the inside looked good. The Pertronix II was adjusted properly (used the gap "tool" they sent) and was grounded.
Plug gap was .035, readjusted to .030 and cleaned it with brake cleaner (it had some carbon fouling on it - plugs only have 50 miles on them).
One more thing I did not mention - that wire has plenty of spark - I checked it last night with an old plug outside of the cylinder and when I removed the wire to see if the car's idle would change, I got "bit" (NOT fun) - when I dropped the wire, it was arcing to the alternator (about 1 - 2 inches away) and it was bright white. Not sure if any of that matters....

krash kendall · Jan 14, 2006

First off, your timing should be between 8*-12* advanced (with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) or as high as you can go without pinging under accelleration or load. The factory 6* will run like a sick dog. Also, did you use a vacuum guage to set your mixture? Have you tested your timing light on another vehicle to see if it is working properly?

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

Poop - forgot to disconnect the vacuum advance last night. I did not use a vacuum gauge - I followed the Ford shop manual. The timing light was used to set the timing initially - I took the car for a test drive (3 - 5 min) and when I got back, it was not working. I don't have another car to check it on.

krash kendall · Jan 14, 2006

I'm surprised it even even runs if it was set at 6* with vac advance hooked up!

For mixture setting:

-Disconnect vac advance from distributor and plug with small bolt or tapered punch

-set timing

-Hook up a vacuum guage to a the manifold "tee" at the back of the manifold or to a port that provides constant full manifold vacuum

-Mixture screws should be about 1-1.25 turns out from the seated position (check before begining)

-Back one screw out untill highest vacuum reading is reached (note-most vac guages run backwards - counter clockwise). Specifically, this is the threshold point where the guage actually stops rising - not past that point.

-reset idle speed if needed

-Adjust second screw same way as first

-Reset idle speed if required

-Re-adjust first screw

-Hook up vac advance

-Disconnect vac guage and cap port

-Close hood

-Drive

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

Just read Krash's post, so I have not tried what he indicated... however...
Update
I checked the dist., cap, rotor, pertronix, checked the wires to make sure all were on securely - I even rerouted and "changed" wires (#1 wire and #3 wire were switched due to length issues). I started the car, the timing light works like a charm on all cylinders EXCEPT #1. For #1, I get an intermittent light - enough for me to reset timing to 10 or so degrees base timing.. I did not bother to check the advance, it was too hard to read the numbers. Any other ideas? Why would that one cylinder be missing? Doesn't the timing light work on the spark to the cylinder? I am lost.

krash kendall · Jan 14, 2006

Try actually switching a spark plug with that hole.

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

I just switched plugs (an old Bosch Platinum which was in the car when I got it) - works like a charm. SOB.
Here is the scorecard for Summit Racing right now: CRAPPY
- sent me the wrong cap and rotor - almost was right - found out with the rotor was destroyed inside the cap - ruining the cap and Pertronix (cost me another $100 there).
- Stupid NGK plugs - see what I get for listening to their sales guy.
Have a lot more venting to do - but no necessary on here - off to talk with my dog.
Summit has pissed me off...

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

I just switched plugs (an old Bosch Platinum which was in the car when I got it) - works like a charm. SOB.
Here is the scorecard for Summit Racing right now: CRAPPY
- sent me the wrong cap and rotor - almost was right - found out with the rotor was destroyed inside the cap - ruining the cap and Pertronix (cost me another $100 there).
- Stupid NGK plugs - see what I get for listening to their sales guy.
Have a lot more venting to do - but no necessary on here - off to talk with my dog.
Summit has pissed me off...

krash kendall · Jan 14, 2006

Double poster!
View attachment 491201

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

Not my fault... stupid network. I am a little bitter - can you tell.

Regardless, sorry for the double post.

krash kendall · Jan 14, 2006

Just a joke because you're new!

HammerG26 · Jan 14, 2006

It was funny... just ticked at Summit.
My dog told me to relax.
Spark plug question - what kind of plugs do you all use? The car had Bosch Platinum in it when I got, I replaced them with NGKs that Summit sent me, just got some Autolites to replace those with (they are what I used to use in my 92 5.0).
Opinions??

NasaGT · Jan 14, 2006

I use Autolites. The guy at Advanced Auto tried to sell me the NGKs too, its some kind of conspiracy.

Ignition Issues - long post

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