I'm about to call it quits

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

Came to my dad's shop this morning, where the stang has been parked for a week and a half, to start it up and test drive it. Now I just set the timing last friday, and it has sat ever since. Fired it up, and she runs like sh it. WTFH?! She wouldn't even hardly idle right. She kept missing and crap, I'm about to throw in the towel. Looks like I overestimated my ability to do this job. I am completely out of ideas as to what to check on this POS. I'm about to say f*** it and throw the stock crap back on.

mackey · Jul 19, 2005

I'll take the AFRP!

mackey · Jul 19, 2005

Just kidding. I would go out and check your timing yet again. You could be off one tooth on the distributor causing your car to miss. It could also be a big vacuum leak.

Mustangless · Jul 19, 2005

that red on the bottom of you sig can mess with your eyes.

I think you still want to keep on working with it. You are still calling your car a girl, and just think how nice it will be after its fixed.

94-302-vert · Jul 19, 2005

My bud had simmilar after H/C/I... he even went through and tried 2 otehr cams.. still idles like Chit and would die a lot when shifting... When he was going to do his supercharger he sent out his injectors to be cleaned and one of his injectors was running at like 175% of what the other injectrs were doing.

He simply had the 7 cleaned and bought one new one.. cost him close to $200 though. For that I would say maybe try buying an injector or two or trading them with someone to try out?

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

94-302-vert said:
My bud had simmilar after H/C/I... he even went through and tried 2 otehr cams.. still idles like Chit and would die a lot when shifting... When he was going to do his supercharger he sent out his injectors to be cleaned and one of his injectors was running at like 175% of what the other injectrs were doing.

He simply had the 7 cleaned and bought one new one.. cost him close to $200 though. For that I would say maybe try buying an injector or two or trading them with someone to try out?

Any easy way to see if the injectors are bad/good? I did buy them used with 3000 miles on them.

mootang · Jul 19, 2005

that is why i hate buying parts used. you never know what your getting. i know you were on a budget and i'm not knocking you. that is a possibility that the injectors with "3k" could be bad. who did you buy them off of?

sorry i'm not sure how to test them. you could try swapping your 19lb injectors and stock maf back on and see what happens.

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

mootang said:
that is why i hate buying parts used. you never know what your getting. i know you were on a budget and i'm not knocking you. that is a possibility that the injectors with "3k" could be bad. who did you buy them off of?

sorry i'm not sure how to test them. you could try swapping your 19lb injectors and stock maf back on and see what happens.

I will be doing just that tomorrow afternoon. Stock injectors (stock FPR is back on already), along with my pro-m and stock inlet tube. I'll see what happens then.

mootang · Jul 19, 2005

how many miles on your car?

if it's close to 100k then i would change the O2's like suggested in your other thread too.

94-302-vert · Jul 19, 2005

and if you can keep it running run some fuel system cleaner through it before going through the hassle of changing the injecotrs...

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

mootang said:
how many miles on your car?

if it's close to 100k then i would change the O2's like suggested in your other thread too.

110k actually.

94-302-vert said:
and if you can keep it running run some fuel system cleaner through it before going through the hassle of changing the injecotrs...

It's really not hard to swap injectors. I can do it in 30 minutes. Besides, I don't have time to run fuel injector cleaner through the system, especially since it's not even really driveable.

mootang · Jul 19, 2005

with that milage i would change the O2's for sure! they are only 50 bucks each and then you dont have to worry about it for another 100k

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

mootang said:
with that milage i would change the O2's for sure! they are only 50 bucks each and then you dont have to worry about it for another 100k

lol, all right then. Here's another question, where should I get them? Is there a good website to buy them from, or can I buy some locally?

mootang · Jul 19, 2005

go to your local autoparts store. just make sure to get a good brand.

bosch are good ones.

mootang · Jul 19, 2005

also if you havent already, double check your plug wires and make sure you have the right firing order.

are you getting spark to all plugs?

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

mootang said:
also if you havent already, double check your plug wires and make sure you have the right firing order.

are you getting spark to all plugs?

lol, you're like the 30th person to tell me that. Firing order is correct, although I haven't checked for spark on every plug. But the coil is sparking just fine.

94-302-vert · Jul 19, 2005

Are they new or old wires?

I got my Bosch O2's at autozone last yar. i ahd to make a million phone calls to find one that had 2 in stock. Do not buy the ones without the connecor. It is not worth saving the couple of bucks.

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

94-302-vert said:
Are they new or old wires?

I got my Bosch O2's at autozone last yar. i ahd to make a million phone calls to find one that had 2 in stock. Do not buy the ones without the connecor. It is not worth saving the couple of bucks.

What wires? O2 or plug wires? The plug wires I just replaced last spring with around 85k on the clock. It's only been 25k miles or so, so they should be good.

So everybody recommends Bosch O2's? I really don't think my O2's are the cause of my problems, since they were just fine before my swap. Although I fouled out my plugs real fast from running too rich, so I guess it's possible. I'll do my injectors and MAF first and see what's up. Oh, and what's the deal with the connectors, are you saying you can buy O2 sensors without the plugs, just wires?

Killercanary · Jul 19, 2005

I don't know where guys are getting O2's for $50... they are normally around $75+.

What codes is it throwing? Have you checked it? There can be codes without a check engine light.

CManT1914 · Jul 19, 2005

Killercanary said:
I don't know where guys are getting O2's for $50... they are normally around $75+.

What codes is it throwing? Have you checked it? There can be codes without a check engine light.

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I'm about to call it quits

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