I'm trying to find out how to go fast as cheap as possible??

sell it and buy a 5 speed


but on a more serious note...

nitrous...
blower...

buy things used... Bolt ons are not going to get you much faster...

if you want some decent parts... get some gt40 or gt40p explorer heads and intake manifold...and a cam...

wardstang94 said:

im trying to find out how to go fast as cheap as possible?? anything?i alreay got CAI 4.10 GEARS, automatic though

Click to expand...

Don't under estimate the potential and consistency of an AODE.

wardstang94 said:

im trying to find out how to go fast as cheap as possible?? anything?i alreay got CAI 4.10 GEARS, automatic though

Click to expand...

Find the highest cliff you can. Add significant weight to the front-end of the car, get at least 1/2 mile run at the cliff, and drive straight off. With the additional nose weight your car should quickly assume a nose-down attitude.

The vastly improved aerodynamics of the SN95 should get you close to a terminal velocity of 180-200 mph prior to reaching the ground.

LMAO!!!

I agree with Adam, throw a boat load of nitrous and gears at it..That being said..

I bought this stang b4 we somehow ended up in the meanest muscle car era yet.. You have to do a h/c/i and a mean set of gears to match any of the beefy cars today or even the stock mustang which next year is coming out with 412HP and then you are gonna need a blower or nitrous on top of that if you want to beat those new cars. A few reasons:

1. Cobra's rated 390HP and dyno'ing at 390+RWHP stock
2. LS1's (now they are old) 300rwhp stock
3. New camaro's rated at 422HP, dyno? stock who knows .. prolly 350+rwhp easy
4. Chrysler/Dodge rated 425HP and dyno'ing 376+rwhp stock..chips? 400rwhp+
5. Cadillac 556HP stock under-rated
6. BMW 135i..rated 300HP stock..throw a pulley on it? prolly 400HP
7. All the MB's are fast now.
8. All the BMR's are fast.
9 Subaru STI..little rocket.
10. 16 year old Mustang.. 300rwhp +-20 AFTER H/C/I and $3000 later..add nitrous or P/A and you are at 400rwhp anymore and its unsafe levels for the block. As soon as you get close to these new rocket cars, you are at dangerous power levels and put $3800-$6500 into a block that's gonna break.

All that said, IF I were ever to go with the old 5.0..gt40's, cam, nitrous/or/ turbo..save LOTS of money and I wouldn't go past 400rwhp. And then you would be as fast as the new cars..if they didn't mod them. OR do what I did and go big.

I really don't like the juice
but
If talking hp per dollar cost

It is the way to make hp for not all that much cash outlay
however
If you stay with that option

The more times you fill up the bottle
well
Your cash outlay continues to become more and more

Might as well face up to reality

You can't be quick for cheap :Word:

Grady

Pokageek said:

I agree with Adam, throw a boat load of nitrous and gears at it..That being said..

I bought this stang b4 we somehow ended up in the meanest muscle car era yet.. You have to do a h/c/i and a mean set of gears to match any of the beefy cars today or even the stock mustang which next year is coming out with 412HP and then you are gonna need a blower or nitrous on top of that if you want to beat those new cars. A few reasons:

1. Cobra's rated 390HP and dyno'ing at 390+RWHP stock
2. LS1's (now they are old) 300rwhp stock
3. New camaro's rated at 422HP, dyno? stock who knows .. prolly 350+rwhp easy
4. Chrysler/Dodge rated 425HP and dyno'ing 376+rwhp stock..chips? 400rwhp+
5. Cadillac 556HP stock under-rated
6. BMW 135i..rated 300HP stock..throw a pulley on it? prolly 400HP
7. All the MB's are fast now.
8. All the BMR's are fast.
9 Subaru STI..little rocket.
10. 16 year old Mustang.. 300rwhp +-20 AFTER H/C/I and $3000 later..add nitrous or P/A and you are at 400rwhp anymore and its unsafe levels for the block. As soon as you get close to these new rocket cars, you are at dangerous power levels and put $3800-$6500 into a block that's gonna break.

All that said, IF I were ever to go with the old 5.0..gt40's, cam, nitrous/or/ turbo..save LOTS of money and I wouldn't go past 400rwhp. And then you would be as fast as the new cars..if they didn't mod them. OR do what I did and go big.

Click to expand...

+11110101010011

Buy FOR SALE sign. Buy something worth building. Pick anything; it'll likely go faster cheaper


OR, be like me, and dump like 15k into a 15yr old car and watch it constantly require more and more and more $.

How to build a mustang that doesn't suck:

1. GET lots of $$$$

2. Literally remove each and every item from the car until you are down to the shell. ****can the entire engine sans the harness, all the suspension, brakes, fuel system, scrap everything in the rearend except the housing, the factory cooling system, the wheels and tires, k-member,the transmission and all related....usually the hood too.

3. Replace all with high $ aftermarket parts.

4. Enjoy the idea you dropped 20k to have braking capability common to anything made in the last 10yrs, have the handling charactaristics of a typical sedan, make the power of a cam only LS1 car and basically function on a semi-close level of a half ass decent sports car while dealing with a give-and-take constant tradeoff for single aspects of the vehicle.

5. CRY

6. Realize you couldve actually SAVED $ by doing something 'stupid' like just buying an 03 cobra or a corvette

7. Cry again when you realize what your car is worth.

8. Sell at a loss or come to terms with what you own (easier if your one of the 'i bleed ford blue' 1 brand only loyal goofballs); and hang out on here with people in debt, ignorance, or denial.

9. Read and answer threads in a synical fashion when people ask how to make a portly, underpowered, automatic mustang fast on the cheap when someone is hoping like a $150 intake will solve all thier problems

10. Cry again...and ponder your $2,000 to-do list BEFORE the shortblock you need to replace



N_E_V_E_R A_G_A_I_N.








*sorry guys...figured I'd save another soul while I'm at it

HankyGT said:

8. ... or come to terms with what you own (easier if your one of the 'i bleed ford blue' 1 brand only loyal goofballs); and hang out on here with people in debt, ignorance, or denial.

9. Read and answer threads in a synical fashion when people ask how to make a portly, underpowered, automatic mustang fast on the cheap when someone is hoping like a $150 intake will solve all thier problems

Click to expand...

Guess I just jumped to these two steps...

I'm pretty happy with how fast mine is. And my cynicism is most active when I think I smell a troll...

Sorry you're not happy with your car, HankyGT.

Pokageek said:

I agree with Adam, throw a boat load of nitrous and gears at it..That being said..

I bought this stang b4 we somehow ended up in the meanest muscle car era yet.. You have to do a h/c/i and a mean set of gears to match any of the beefy cars today or even the stock mustang which next year is coming out with 412HP and then you are gonna need a blower or nitrous on top of that if you want to beat those new cars. A few reasons:

1. Cobra's rated 390HP and dyno'ing at 390+RWHP stock
2. LS1's (now they are old) 300rwhp stock
3. New camaro's rated at 422HP, dyno? stock who knows .. prolly 350+rwhp easy
4. Chrysler/Dodge rated 425HP and dyno'ing 376+rwhp stock..chips? 400rwhp+
5. Cadillac 556HP stock under-rated
6. BMW 135i..rated 300HP stock..throw a pulley on it? prolly 400HP
7. All the MB's are fast now.
8. All the BMR's are fast.
9 Subaru STI..little rocket.
10. 16 year old Mustang.. 300rwhp +-20 AFTER H/C/I and $3000 later..add nitrous or P/A and you are at 400rwhp anymore and its unsafe levels for the block. As soon as you get close to these new rocket cars, you are at dangerous power levels and put $3800-$6500 into a block that's gonna break.

All that said, IF I were ever to go with the old 5.0..gt40's, cam, nitrous/or/ turbo..save LOTS of money and I wouldn't go past 400rwhp. And then you would be as fast as the new cars..if they didn't mod them. OR do what I did and go big.

Click to expand...

Thats pretty accurate...and it sucks LOL. But the thing is, those cars cost an arm and a leg to buy and to insure them (compared to our 5.0s) so we have an advantage there. And atleast when it comes to the challenger/camaro.....all that extra weight really makes the high HP number a mute point. They arent going that fast.

HankyGT said:

+11110101010011



N_E_V_E_R A_G_A_I_N.



*sorry guys...figured I'd save another soul while I'm at it

Click to expand...

LOL your hatred for your own car is funny. NOTHING in this hobby of going fast is remotely close to "cheap". And if you seriously spend $20k(even $10k or $15k)...and are only as fast as a cam only LS1....YOU'RE DOING SOMETHING WRONG. And fbody's arent anything to brag about brakes wise or suspension wise....


And even if u did the "smart" thing and "saved" money and bought a vette, or worse, an 03 cobra.....good luck getting raped by the insurance companies. Low factory horsepower = low insurance rates = $$$$ saved. Not every guy wants to go finance a $25,000 toy. Some guys pay cash for their cars and build them up over time. And you have the sense of pride that YOU built it and didnt cut a check (or sign on a line LOL) for a factory hot rod.

besides, how exactly does a 03 cobra perform so much better than our cars? Its the same platform. Yes, they have twice the power and IRS....but IRS cant be that great if guys are swapping them out. Obviously it depends on how u choose to use your car....


And really a vette wasnt built to compete with mustangs. So its pretty obvious they are gonna be superior. A camaro on the other hand....not so much LOL.

Excellent points there Nate! I agree 100%

How do you spend $15k and not go as fast? Quite easily actually. Don't put every last dime back into the engine.

Actually the f-body DOES have a superior suspension setup with an SLA style double wishbone front suspension setup and a 3 point rear. The 3 point is actually better as it allows the rear more articulaion before becoming bound. The same reason why the S197 cars switched to a center pivot 3 link. A 4 link will actually bind at a point esp if you run a poly bushing. Yes, there are watts links but still...

Braking being even near equal in a mustang? Unless you got a cobra I'm jut going to pretend I didn't hear it for the sake of filling half a page with 'HAHAHAHAHA'. If you've driven anything other than the LS1 cars, I might say they are near equal (LT1 brakes) with the edge to the fbody. Just something else you don't have to spend $500 on upgrading for saftey.

To really get back on the $ point; how nice was your car when you bought it? Did it need any body work? Did you change any body work? What does your paint look like? I will park mine next to ANY mustang for comparison, and to get it to look decent wasn't free. Last I checked most decent setups near require a hood....$500 + paint. Like the cobra look but didn't buy one? Add that to the list. Love those nice faded rocker extensions you're rocking around with your soon to be matching rear bumper? Check.

Now that we've invested @ 2k back into our car so it doesn't equate to some hillbilly POS that has every dollar under the hood, lets move on.

Brakes and suspension. I like my cars to stop and turn. Start adding these things up: Upper/lower control arms, springs, caster camber plates, bumpsteer kit, poly sway bar mounts and endlinks, subframe connectors, 98-03 control arms, steeda x2 balljoints, strut tower brace, poly engine mounts, poly trans mount, carrier ear bushings, adjustable shocks...

Oh, you DID buy the $$$ cobra brake package? Great upgrade for sure (no BS)...OOPS, your wheels don't fit anymore!!

Better get out that wallet.

Where are we now with our $? Ready to start tackling that aneamic v8 under the hood?

Let's go...and go down the list of the usuals and where I put $ round one.

LT headers, x pipe, catback exhaust system, underdrive pullies, aftermarket camshaft, new timing gear, new lifters, new hardened, pushrods, $1300 aluminum heads, aftermarket stud mount rockers, upper/lower aftermarket intake manifold, 24# injectors, adj regulator, bigger matched MAF, CIA, throttle body, valvecovers to fit your new heads, gaskets, arp hardware, fuel pump, new ignition components like plugs, wires, dizzy cap/rotor, and a coil....fresh harmonic balancer as your old one is coming apart.

Lets not forget to upgrade that clutch while we are at it! Might as well change the clutch cable and crappy plastic prawl quadrant....add a firewall adjuster too. Shifter time unless you like replacing t-5s all the time and lets add an aluminum driveshaft to replace the nice shakey factory one

Time for a dyno tune session! Oh, you need to have something to tune with? Well then, better buy a burnable ROM chip for the ECU

296/315 at the mustang dyno....... not bad you say

Oops we forgot our gears! Can't do any running with those 2:73s now can we. Better buy your gears, your install kit, new clutches, and have them setup or drop more $$ on pinion tools and hope you get it right the first time.

Hey we're looking sharp now! Nice looking car....around 300rwhp....not bad.

Let's see how it does next to your little brothers 99 M6 z28 with a lid and a catback only.....WHOA. Hold the ***$%$(%$ phone! Why am I just hanging with this next to stock camaro with all this $ invested into my car? Holy Crap! I'm actually getting edged on the top-end!

Camaro runs a 13.1 at 108 on it's crappy 60' streettire pass....your h/c/i car can't seem to muster over 105......awesome.

Well time for round #2 of the $ train/mods

You say you don't like filling bottles? Neither do I. I want my car to perform all the time.

Man, blowers are expensive......good thing I get a slight discount through work...I'd like it polished though so it doesn't look like **** and we can save $ with the tuner kit vs the normal that's only setup to run 24# injectors on a stock car . OK, well that was like $2800. Oh....well we aren't done, that sucks. Lets add a power pipe....those are cheap lol. Time to add the inline t-rex pump...and the 42# injectors......and the new MAF. Well we can't just wing it driving around. Better grab that wideband 02, and a boost gauge and something to mount them in.

Back to the dyno! $$

Bad news! Your MSD coil has been intermittent and causing irregular spark problems under boost, and your only oxygen sensor you didn't replace on the car doesn't really want to come online correctly. We replaced them cheaply for you with some we had at the shop and a new coil. Unfortunately once your car started to make some #s, your older shortblock wasn't the happiest and your rear main seal went....thanks for oiling our shop floor up! Haha, j/k but seriously now your clutch is soaked in oil and you should look into replacing that driveshaft as it's giving some vibrations at speed.

(my ebrake bracket had torn from the chassis and come down rubbing and slicing (ruining) my old aluminum driveshaft earlier in the year.....it was on the to-do list but I rarely drove the car at speed to notice. Chalk it up to the '$hit happns' list)

Well at least you are cool with the dyno guys and your bill+parts weren't 'terrible' for the copious time they spent on it bout a $500 bill. Time to order a new clutch disk for your Ford Racing HD assembly. A new driveshaft, a new rear main seal and lets toss a new oil pan on it while we are at it as this old one tried to tear while tapping our oil return. Only another $500 shopping trip lol

Lets get it all back together....yeah no leaks. Take the time and put 500 easy miles on that new clutch to really get it seated. Time to go to the track! Let's enjoy the fruits of our labor and all this $. Thank God I do all my own wrench work haha.

What the?! This clutch isn't barking 3rd or 4th anymore after a few trial passes. "Hello? Ford Racing....tech dept please"...explians... "Oh, so basically the HD pressure plate is junk? "Yea, honestly I'm not sure why we offer it, but I wouldn't put it in my own car" "The King Cobra pressure plate is decent and some have pretty good luck with it, but I wouldn't trust it tooo far with an heavier S/C'd car on a sticky tire" "Sorry bout your luck man"

Well F____.

Few more passes....I've got oil leaking out of my air filter...that can't be good. My air fuel ratios seem inconsistant. Crap I've wet the MAF.

HELLO BLOW BY!!!!!

GOOD BYE RINGS!!!!

....mumbles explicatives under his breath.....

A catch can, a steeda oil accumulator and some heavy drinking later....

Car finally makes an 'ok pass' considering the cashed bottom end. 12.62 at 114 with a lack luster 1.87 60'. Transmission isn't the happeiest with this power though


Not near the entire norm for a blower car...faster than the usual stuff around town, lightyears better than h/c/i. Runs around the same as a bolt on only LS1 car (non cammed) lol


Hey I still have to buy a new clutch that doesn't suck and replace/rebuild the shortblock, and go through the trans! AWESOME.


PLEASE tell me how this was cost effective, or a better idea than the terminator or vette? How did I not spend a ton of money on an old car again? Are we not adding our reciepts or are we lying to ourselves? Have we looked at the going rates for these two cars? I could get a terminator or a z06 ALL DAY for $18-20.


How is either better? Other than retaining value, being newer, and nicer. Each is purpose built, either for boost and handling it, a strong trans, already sick looking and working together factory and accepting of cheap boltons to go extremely fast; or much of the same with the vette, a world class car that runs strong as **** out of the box, handles like it's on rails etc etc.

Screw your insurance BS. I'd much rather pay for something worth owning.

Get out of your shells step away from your keyboards and go try and build a complete car from your tired turds of 15 sec ET stock madness.

Why do you think the newer games are so popular? People get by buying someone elses project ie: my own car when I sell it for a huge loss, and make out somewhat ahead. Cars that are sorted to the bone because they have to be. Not hack job POS's. Then you can go fast 'relitively' cheap with a mustang unless you toss a huge shot on an old fox and count your blessings till it pops.

It's stupid. I'm even worse for not even keeping my LT1 trans am (a car I bought in the middle of my mustang build to have fun in and SO regretted spending on dime on my stang after just driving that and enjoying the looks, feel, t-tops, difference etc.) and shouldve sold my car when I had the chance last season.

Ever price a new shortblock to add on? A new clutch and flywheel and some axles, DR's and a fresh tune?

You will be driving your car to your grave for how much you had to put back in. You will still likely break the block lol.

I'm fixing my issues and I'm OUT. PEACE.




//rant.

-Tom

p.s. you aren't getting cliffs.

A shift kit like a trans-go will help a little and hopefully wont take too much life off your AOD..might pick up a tenth or so if you're lucky.

You won't really get that thing to come 'alive' without a decent stall and a matched cam

just a few mods are pointless IMO, spend the money on a sound system, if you wanna go fast, save up like 3Gs and do it right, stock nos mustangs are pretty slow and blow the engine pretty fast. my car with H/I/C smokes the **** outta stock nos stangs and does it reliably w/out risk of blowing the motor or haveing it tuned for nos and running crappy w/out it. my 2 cents

I see both sides of this argument..I am trying to think of how much I've put into it..

Car cost = $4200 IIRC
Engine = man I don't remember..I have seriously lost track..but I am guessing $7000 +- with mistakes made
Trans was $2500 with discount and upgrades..clutch and stuff and flywheel $550..
3 sets of gears cuz I couldnt make up my mind..$1800
Cobra brakes $500
Suspension MODS = $1100+
Rims and tars $600
Headers $950
DS $300
"other" $2000
labor $3-5000 including shops that SUCK.
-------------
I am at least $25000 .. For what?? Well..I do have (finally) a well running all N/A, street drive-able(by MY definition not yours), reliable, basically NEW car that will whip any production (off the assembly line) car made today for that money or double...and even most of more expensive ones that are up to or over $100,000. And there are many times along the way you can make a mistake and blow up your car and get seriously aggravated.

If you REALLY like this body style car like I do, you CAN do it for less like Adam mentioned..prolly a turbo solution..prolly not the best or NEW supporting mods for safety or engine parts - like mine has - but you gotta really look and watch your $$. Most peeps end up with a car in the high 12's or 13's that is or isn't my definition of streetable and stop there without all the safety and supporting stuff I guess. This includes a clutch and trans that can blow up on you/block/ or missing safety items like bigger brakes..etc..etc..

I could have done the same thing buying a $20k cobra with an upgraded blower or vette on it I guess.. Still the same $$. If anyone is buying a car as an investment its a bad idea.

shouldve sold my car when I had the chance last season....

I'm fixing my issues and I'm OUT. PEACE.

Click to expand...

Seriously--is there someone on here that can help you fix your issues? If I was within commuting distance, I'd offer to do so
1) to stop these rants, but more importantly
2) cuz no one should have that much bitterness in their lives, particularly not over a freakin car.

Why don't you part the thing out now and call it good? That kinda anger is going to cost you a lot more in hospital bills than you'll ever recover in the sale of a car.

Really not trying to be a smart-@$$, just feel bad for you. If I hated my car that much, I sure wouldn't spend any spare time hanging out on this board...

Good luck to you, hope you get it fixed and can move on soon.

I don't spend alot of time here actually....frankly because it's quite hard as there is not much traffic.

I do kinda own the car and sought the board out when I had first got it; it's almost habit to check.

The only 'fix' I seek is more disposable $. Putting in the wrench time nor the skills/tools is an issue. It just simply overcomes me how much it takes to do the job remotely right with these things.

Bitter? Only with myself mostly but alot gets brought out in the blatant ignorance that spreads like wildfire through automotive forums. Mostly in the "what works and what doesn't". You have like 5-6 fast cars on the board and then a following of almost e-groupies that will recommend or suggest parts or information based off of someone elses car and HP/ ETs. Generally you will be chastised for mentioning cars off the beaten path (as with all car forums) and cars will be labled as 'stupid' out of sheer ignorance or rivalry (hence the issue here whenever an LS1 vs 5.0 debate pops up for example).

A DSM (eclipse/laser/talon) would catch hell on this board for example. I had mine run faster than my h/c/i mustang with literally under $200 in mods....DD'd the damn thing for 2yrs and got 30mpg on the highway.

No, my biggest issue is with myself/stang in that I made myself a promise if I graduated college that I was going to buy the (98+ style) black WS6 trans am that I had wanted since they debuted in 96. At the time of graduation I was still playing with turbo cars and trying to pay off my loans. Well I wanted to give the v8 thing a try as my good friend had a 5.0 fox that was always a blast and I always liked the looks of the sn95 cars. I was used to being broke, and playing on a budget. So instead of having a car payment on the then fairly expensive WS6 cars, I chose to buy a $2300 94 GT and use some money I had saved and the profit from another car sale to have some fun.

I had fun building it; but I was always remiss I never bought my t/a as I LOVE anything where I can take the roof off. I looked at it like well I can spend 8k on the whole car and get alot more car for my 8k than a stock t/a and it will run faster. I guess I was ignorant and younger. Which is what led me to buy my LT1 car that was supposed to patch that hole. I literally sold it as I completely stopped driving my mustang...which had decent $ invested.

So yea; I'm bitter because I wasted a crap ton of $ and I have a car that I am no longer truely happy with. I had the experience and all but **** starts to get real old real fast when things start costing large amounts of $ and all you get is setbacks and dissapointment. If I was making the $ I was out of college I wouldnt care so much as it came so easily that I would just go buy that wicked $5000 shortblock and redo the whole damn thing...I'd go back to my roots and turbo it for sure as I shouldve in the 1st place aswell. Now I've got more bills, and a whole lot less $ and I was recently just laid off before xmas.

I don't even want to pay the $120mo bill I have just to store the damn thing right now with my other stuff. It's crap.

What I need to do is just get my WS6 fix and find another job in this wonderful economy while I live in the worst ranking city in the US for business currently. I'm about to save my pennies over the next 5yrs and go buy a c6...but a house/ring need to come first.

It's freaking awesome when you spend a bunch on x-mas, your car is broke and you're inbetween homes to get to file for unemployment. I have the $ in savings to build 8 347s....I'm just refusing to piss it away on a car when there are other things in life needing sorted.

you do sound bitter, dead giveaway is the 5 paragraph essay in each post, haha