I'm hemorraging oil out of the drain plug so I have ordered a Canton 7 qt pan. How difficult is the swap with the engine in the car? Any tips/advice? Also, should I go with the 1 piece gasket or the 3 piece? I MUST have a leak-free seal.
In-car oil pan swap
- Thread starter 68keyblr
- Start date
67Dylan
New Member
I tried the in-car change, but not on a classice; it was a 90 mustang. I had a tubular front end and no power steering and it was a PITA to change the gasket! I had the pleasant opportunity to replace the oil pump a couple of weeks later. I unhooked the motor and raised it w/a cherry picker so the pan would clear and IMO it was much easier than trying to fight w/everything in my way.
As for the gaskets, the rubber one piece is the way to go. It's reusable and have yet to have a problem w/them.
As for the gaskets, the rubber one piece is the way to go. It's reusable and have yet to have a problem w/them.
302 coupe
Founding Member
assuming you can unbolt the crossmember, its not bad at all. The bolts holding that crossmember in can be a real bear sometimes though. Definately go with a one piece seal. The multi piece cork gaskets always seep, maybe not enough to drip, just enough to make a mess under there. Other than removing the crossmember, you shouldn't have to do anything else.
thehueypilot
Active Member
Max Power said:
I agree and I would use a good quality one piece pan gasket using "the right stuff" gasket sealer in all the corners (front & rear main bearing saddles) and where the front cover splits.
It took me about 25 minutes on jackstands, most of the time was spent scraping off the old gasket material from the block. I had to remove the centerlink and crossmember.
Does anyone have a part number for the correct one-piece gasket for use with the original style pans?
I was under the impression that the rails on the newer oil pans didn't have the long grooves stamped in to accomodate the one-piece gasket. Is this true?
FWIW, I've had good luck with the four-piece install in the vehicle. I use a couple of dabs of silicone on each rail to hold the cork gaskets in place and then push the pan up in place under all of the gaskets.
I was under the impression that the rails on the newer oil pans didn't have the long grooves stamped in to accomodate the one-piece gasket. Is this true?
FWIW, I've had good luck with the four-piece install in the vehicle. I use a couple of dabs of silicone on each rail to hold the cork gaskets in place and then push the pan up in place under all of the gaskets.
I would agree with the others as long as the crossmember bolts aren't stuck. Mine weren't. I have not heard of a one piece gasket. Mine was actually 4 pieces two corks anlong the lenght and 2 ruberish crecent shapes at the front and rear. I think my gaskets were cheap I had some trouble with leaking the first time I put it in. The rear crecent shaped one did not sit right, when I had to redo it, I had to trim it a little it was too long. Also I found that it worked best to use some gasket sealant, I used silicone, to hold it in place on the bottom of the block and then lift the pan up to it. The first time when I set the gasket on the pan and lifted it up to the block the semicircular gasket at the rear shifted when I put it on and it was leaking. The bottom of the block has a groove on it and the gasket can be held in place. But on the bottom of the oil plan it is just a flat surface and the gaskets can shift around.
Well that may be a longer answer than you were looking for but it is what I learned from experience.
Not familiar with the "right stuff" gasket sealant may have to look into it
Well that may be a longer answer than you were looking for but it is what I learned from experience.
Not familiar with the "right stuff" gasket sealant may have to look into it
thehueypilot
Active Member
68keyblr said:
Yes, its a specific brand (Permatex) that all the OEM's use now. I find that it works very well but a little pricey.
Use Felpro's one piece gasket. It comes with 4 plastic installation studs. Screw these into place, push the gasket up onto the studs (they have a tab that holds the gasket, pan and pan rail stiffeners in place) then the pan, then the pan rail stiffeners (these come with the late 80's 5.0 pans and are a good idea even on old pans), start all the bolts, tighten and you're done. Easiest thing you'll ever do, upside-down
Oh, and you'll need new longer pan bolts as well. These also can be found on the 80's to 90's 5.0's.
Oh, and you'll need new longer pan bolts as well. These also can be found on the 80's to 90's 5.0's.
67Dylan
New Member
302 coupe said:
That sounds MUCH easier than what I thought would be involved or what was involved in my fox3. Does the motor have to be supported during this process? Once the crossmember is dropped, anything else in the way? Sorry for the questions, but I am still very new to the classics.
302 coupe
Founding Member
the motor mounts bolt to the shock towers, which will all be uneffected by removing the crossmember. Some folks are saying they dropped the drag link, I was able to work around mine, maybe it depends on which motor mounts are used. The earlier mounts made the engine sit a little higher, so maybe that gives a little more clearance.
Update: I was able to install the canton oil pan with no leaks as of yet (5 days later).
The 1 piece gasket is pricey but worth it. I used some "The Right Stuff" on the corners and then just torqued the pan to spec (10 in lbs) starting from the middle and moving out in a criss-cross fashion.
Total project time was about 4 hours.
NOTE - the 1 piece gasket comes with 4 plastic retainers that hold the gasket and pan in place to line everything up and get the bolts started. If installing an aftermarket pan with baffle with the engine in the car, DO NOT USE THESE PINS! You cannot angle the pan on around the pickup with the pins in place. I wrecked a $50 gasket learning this lesson. Other than that it went pretty smoothly.
Thanks for all of the advice
Also, the fitting on the new dipstick tube is way too big for the welded bung on the side of the pan...not sure what to do about this just yet...
The 1 piece gasket is pricey but worth it. I used some "The Right Stuff" on the corners and then just torqued the pan to spec (10 in lbs) starting from the middle and moving out in a criss-cross fashion.
Total project time was about 4 hours.
NOTE - the 1 piece gasket comes with 4 plastic retainers that hold the gasket and pan in place to line everything up and get the bolts started. If installing an aftermarket pan with baffle with the engine in the car, DO NOT USE THESE PINS! You cannot angle the pan on around the pickup with the pins in place. I wrecked a $50 gasket learning this lesson. Other than that it went pretty smoothly.
Thanks for all of the advice
Also, the fitting on the new dipstick tube is way too big for the welded bung on the side of the pan...not sure what to do about this just yet...
rsev216
Member
68keyblr said:I agree, the idea is fantastic and would have worked beautifully with a stock pan. But you guys know me...gotta do it the hard way
Now you can go celebrate by ordering the roast duck with mango salsa
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