• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

In-car oil pan swap

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68keyblr
  • Start date Start date Nov 15, 2006
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Nov 15, 2006
#1
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #1
I'm hemorraging oil out of the drain plug so I have ordered a Canton 7 qt pan. How difficult is the swap with the engine in the car? Any tips/advice? Also, should I go with the 1 piece gasket or the 3 piece? I MUST have a leak-free seal.
 

67Dylan

New Member
May 11, 2006
259
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Nov 15, 2006
#2
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #2
I tried the in-car change, but not on a classice; it was a 90 mustang. I had a tubular front end and no power steering and it was a PITA to change the gasket! I had the pleasant opportunity to replace the oil pump a couple of weeks later. I unhooked the motor and raised it w/a cherry picker so the pan would clear and IMO it was much easier than trying to fight w/everything in my way.
As for the gaskets, the rubber one piece is the way to go. It's reusable and have yet to have a problem w/them.
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
3
36
Macon, Ga.
Nov 15, 2006
#3
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #3
assuming you can unbolt the crossmember, its not bad at all. The bolts holding that crossmember in can be a real bear sometimes though. Definately go with a one piece seal. The multi piece cork gaskets always seep, maybe not enough to drip, just enough to make a mess under there. Other than removing the crossmember, you shouldn't have to do anything else.
 
C

chemeng

New Member
Feb 21, 2004
93
0
0
Louisville, KY
Nov 15, 2006
#4
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #4
Replace Oil Pan in Car

Had to disconnect the drag link from the idler arm to get enough clearance.
 
1

1966conv

New Member
Mar 5, 2004
220
0
0
Nov 15, 2006
#5
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #5
I also had to disconnect the drag link from the idler to get enough clearance. It also still leaks. $##$$#
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
1
36
St Paul
Nov 15, 2006
#6
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #6
I just disconnected the idler arm from the frame to drop the linkage. If the crossmember hasn't welded itself in, this is a pretty easy task.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Nov 15, 2006
#7
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #7
Max Power said:
I just disconnected the idler arm from the frame to drop the linkage. If the crossmember hasn't welded itself in, this is a pretty easy task.
Click to expand...


I agree and I would use a good quality one piece pan gasket using "the right stuff" gasket sealer in all the corners (front & rear main bearing saddles) and where the front cover splits.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Nov 15, 2006
#8
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #8
thehueypilot said:
I agree and I would use a good quality one piece pan gasket using "the right stuff" gasket sealer in all the corners (front & rear main bearing saddles) and where the front cover splits.
Click to expand...


Dumb question: what is "the right stuff"? Specific brand?
 

jadesville

the polarbear conservation corps protects a polarb
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 8, 2003
2,189
0
47
Gresham, OR
Nov 15, 2006
#9
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #9
It took me about 25 minutes on jackstands, most of the time was spent scraping off the old gasket material from the block. I had to remove the centerlink and crossmember.
 
A

Applejack

New Member
Dec 11, 2005
32
0
0
White Lake, MI
Nov 15, 2006
#10
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #10
Does anyone have a part number for the correct one-piece gasket for use with the original style pans?

I was under the impression that the rails on the newer oil pans didn't have the long grooves stamped in to accomodate the one-piece gasket. Is this true?

FWIW, I've had good luck with the four-piece install in the vehicle. I use a couple of dabs of silicone on each rail to hold the cork gaskets in place and then push the pan up in place under all of the gaskets.
 
D

drbobj67

New Member
Sep 22, 2006
59
0
0
Nov 15, 2006
#11
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #11
I would agree with the others as long as the crossmember bolts aren't stuck. Mine weren't. I have not heard of a one piece gasket. Mine was actually 4 pieces two corks anlong the lenght and 2 ruberish crecent shapes at the front and rear. I think my gaskets were cheap I had some trouble with leaking the first time I put it in. The rear crecent shaped one did not sit right, when I had to redo it, I had to trim it a little it was too long. Also I found that it worked best to use some gasket sealant, I used silicone, to hold it in place on the bottom of the block and then lift the pan up to it. The first time when I set the gasket on the pan and lifted it up to the block the semicircular gasket at the rear shifted when I put it on and it was leaking. The bottom of the block has a groove on it and the gasket can be held in place. But on the bottom of the oil plan it is just a flat surface and the gaskets can shift around.

Well that may be a longer answer than you were looking for but it is what I learned from experience.

Not familiar with the "right stuff" gasket sealant may have to look into it
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Nov 15, 2006
#12
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #12
68keyblr said:
Dumb question: what is "the right stuff"? Specific brand?
Click to expand...

Yes, its a specific brand (Permatex) that all the OEM's use now. I find that it works very well but a little pricey.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Nov 15, 2006
#13
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #13
Use Felpro's one piece gasket. It comes with 4 plastic installation studs. Screw these into place, push the gasket up onto the studs (they have a tab that holds the gasket, pan and pan rail stiffeners in place) then the pan, then the pan rail stiffeners (these come with the late 80's 5.0 pans and are a good idea even on old pans), start all the bolts, tighten and you're done. Easiest thing you'll ever do, upside-down Oh, and you'll need new longer pan bolts as well. These also can be found on the 80's to 90's 5.0's.
 

67Dylan

New Member
May 11, 2006
259
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Nov 16, 2006
#14
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #14
302 coupe said:
assuming you can unbolt the crossmember, its not bad at all. The bolts holding that crossmember in can be a real bear sometimes though.... Other than removing the crossmember, you shouldn't have to do anything else.
Click to expand...

That sounds MUCH easier than what I thought would be involved or what was involved in my fox3. Does the motor have to be supported during this process? Once the crossmember is dropped, anything else in the way? Sorry for the questions, but I am still very new to the classics.
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
1
36
St Paul
Nov 16, 2006
#15
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #15
The motor is supported as it is still on the mounts. You don't have to touch the mounts.

The crossmember just ties the rails together. Unless the body is so weak that it will collapse upon crossmember removal, you're good to go.
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
3
36
Macon, Ga.
Nov 16, 2006
#16
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #16
the motor mounts bolt to the shock towers, which will all be uneffected by removing the crossmember. Some folks are saying they dropped the drag link, I was able to work around mine, maybe it depends on which motor mounts are used. The earlier mounts made the engine sit a little higher, so maybe that gives a little more clearance.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Nov 27, 2006
#17
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #17
Update: I was able to install the canton oil pan with no leaks as of yet (5 days later).

The 1 piece gasket is pricey but worth it. I used some "The Right Stuff" on the corners and then just torqued the pan to spec (10 in lbs) starting from the middle and moving out in a criss-cross fashion.

Total project time was about 4 hours.

NOTE - the 1 piece gasket comes with 4 plastic retainers that hold the gasket and pan in place to line everything up and get the bolts started. If installing an aftermarket pan with baffle with the engine in the car, DO NOT USE THESE PINS! You cannot angle the pan on around the pickup with the pins in place. I wrecked a $50 gasket learning this lesson. Other than that it went pretty smoothly.

Thanks for all of the advice

Also, the fitting on the new dipstick tube is way too big for the welded bung on the side of the pan...not sure what to do about this just yet...
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Nov 28, 2006
#18
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #18
It's a shame you couldn't use the pins, those little jewels are priceless in installing the pan, gasket, stiffeners while the engine is rightside up.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Nov 28, 2006
#19
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #19
D.Hearne said:
It's a shame you couldn't use the pins, those little jewels are priceless in installing the pan, gasket, stiffeners while the engine is rightside up.
Click to expand...

I agree, the idea is fantastic and would have worked beautifully with a stock pan. But you guys know me...gotta do it the hard way
 

rsev216

Member
Nov 17, 2003
109
0
17
Pinetop, Az
Nov 28, 2006
#20
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #20
68keyblr said:
I agree, the idea is fantastic and would have worked beautifully with a stock pan. But you guys know me...gotta do it the hard way
Click to expand...


Now you can go celebrate by ordering the roast duck with mango salsa .
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Help Identifying Engine Harness Plug
  • FoxbodyRob
  • Feb 7, 2026
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech
Replies
3
Views
203
2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech Feb 7, 2026
FoxbodyRob
Who the hell puts the wrong spark plugs in a 3.8L?
  • snowstang
  • Mar 25, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
12
Views
443
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Apr 3, 2026
LILCBRA
Engine Cheapy Fox body 7qt oil pans?
  • rednotch
  • Mar 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
10
Views
778
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Apr 15, 2025
08GT500
1
Engine Motor swap from a 2003 Explorer
  • 1996mustang new
  • Oct 9, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
597
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Oct 16, 2025
squeak93
J
'04 3.8L V6 mineral deposits and oil on #3 cylinder. Does it need a rebuild or something simpler?
  • joeybuddy96
  • Mar 18, 2026
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
288
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech Friday at 3:06 PM
gkomo
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?