Info on Cobra brake install

zenboy99

Founding Member
May 12, 2002
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Madison, WI
Bear with me here guys, I'm in the middle of moving and I just got a promotion so my life is real hectic and I haven't had time to search this. My brakes are on the edge of failure. I want to go with the Cobra brake swap, 13" front, 11.75" rear.

If I go with one of the kits from PPI or speedconcepts, are there any modifications I'll need to do beyond that? Banjo bolts and brackets are included.

I know a larger master cylinder is recomended, anyone have a specific part #? Ford or Brembro?

How about the zinc plating compared to the gold plating, what are the differences/advantages?

What about cross-drilled/slotted vs blank rotors?

Any info you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
It looks like PPI and SpeedConcepts have everything you'll need. You'll have to pull the rear axles to install the new caliper mounting brackets, though. SpeedConcepts' kits on their site appear to be just the front brakes, but they have other packages on the site that include the rear calipers and the bracket kit.

The master cylinder is only needed if you want a "stock" soft pedal. You can use your current master cylinder, but your brake pedal will be a lot harder.

Zinc vs gold plating is only for looks, IMO. Besides, I believe the gold plating is really gold-colored zinc, anyway; it certainly ain't real gold. :p Both will help keep the rotor from rusting wherever the brake pads DON'T touch. The pads will eventually eat through the zinc/gold, but the rust won't be as bad as unprotected rotors.

Cross-drilled/slotted vs blank, that's a longer one. Here's a decent write-up:

http://www.raceconcepts.net/rotor101.php

I'll add to it with this: Cross-drilling weakens the structural integrity of the rotor. How much depends on the rotor quality and how the cross-drilling is done. It's not too uncommon to crack a bad cross-drilled rotor. I recommend RaceConcepts.net's dimple-drilling. I've got them on my 'Stang (dimple-drilled and slotted), and they're great.
 
I havn't had any cracks or problems with my cross drilled and slotted rotors, and they have been to several autocrosses, and general driving around, I have the cobra upgrade in the front and the Baer eradispeed in the rear, BUT, I will say this, when you get on the brakes, they "buzz" as the slots and holes run under the pad.. just so you know. I don't mind it, but the first time my wife raced it and heard it, she pulled off thinking something was wrong...
 
I just bought the speed concepts front Cobra kit for $439 plus $41 shipping and the Baer rear kit from Brother's Performance with Hawk Pads for $330. So for a little over $800 I got everything. I went with cross drilled and slotted for the front and rear. Actually it looks like maypo59 did the same thing.
 
Wow, great info, thanks alot!

What does it involve to pull the rear axles? I've done everything on my car except the axles, gears, and Eaton posi. Do I just pull the c-clips?

I noticed the Cobra rears don't say Cobra on them, I was kind of disapointed, I thought both fronts and rears said Cobra.

If the only difference with the master cylinder is pedal feel I'm not too worried about it now, but might upgrade later.
 
zenboy99 said:
Wow, great info, thanks alot!

What does it involve to pull the rear axles? I've done everything on my car except the axles, gears, and Eaton posi. Do I just pull the c-clips?

The worst part can be the ABS sensors...if they move its tit...push the sensor back some...it doesn't have to come out completely...just far enuf back so you can push the axles back and grab the C-clip with a magnet..
I have the Cad/Zinc washed and they look Gold, cross-drilled rotors...I like em, they been on 4 yrs and just starting to feel a tad of a pulse...I'd say that's pretty decent for rotors...Best part is the rotor never looks rusted up...thats one of my pet peeves..ratty looking brakes/rotors behind some nice wheels...It ain't right... :D