Install Header From Top / No Heads?

Nemethjames1

Member
May 15, 2016
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I am installing new cams, timing chain and accessories along with most of the gaskets... and long tube headers with off road X pipe.


I was wondering if any of you have installed headers from the top side, with the heads off, then when putting heads on bolt them up all in one shot.

Or is this not even possible?

I'm taking a week to do everything and will be done one week from today (is my plan) working two or three hours a day, cleaning things up as I assemble. Only have about 2 hours into it but have the intake off and another 30 minutes the timing cover will be off.
 
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PS: I've always noticed the passenger side of the engine sits lower, like the engine is tilted or lowered more on passenger side, anyone else have this? I'll take out motor mounts tomorrow or next day when I get more time to work on my own car.
 

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I've never really had any experience with headers, but I would think you'd have to get underneath the car at some point to bolt them to the crossover pipe, especially long tubes.

I don't know either way whether it's possible to "feed" the headers down between the engine block and sides of the engine bay...and I don't know if the steering column/rack and crossmember would interfere with such an install.

Perhaps someone who has actually done it will chime in shortly.
 
Perhaps someone who has actually done it will chime in shortly.
I have done several longtube header installs on 1996-2004 Ford Mustang GT's. I tryed this before and there is not enough room to work with to install the longtube headers that way unfortunately. The stock Ford k member is big,bulky,heavy,and makes longtube header installs impossible. This is why people install aftermarket k members so they can save a lot of weight on their front end and make installs easier like turbo kit installations etc. This is a good time to consider a aftermarket k member and any front suspension components. You will have to remove your k member,a arms,steering rack/column,crossmember,hood etc. and have your engine on a hoist with something supporting your engine underneath like wood blocks what I used extra insurance incase your hoist drops the engine. You will need a lot of tools. This longtube header install is a real PITB everytime. I hope you have a good helper and case beer on hand. Also not all brand longtube headers fit the same from what I seen. What longtube headers did you purchase? Ceramic coated I hope.
 
IIgood: yes you do have to go under and bolt the mid pipe and few other things like o2 sensors, just was wondering if I could avoid the whole dropping k member by having the heads off and or unbolted so I could move them up or what not.

But thanks saberstang, for your input. I was wondering how tight it would be to bolt the headers to the heads even if I had them suspended a little off the block with my cherry picker, but since I have the whole engine torn down and waiting for parts I will remove the stock manifolds and h pipe then take it from there, maybe I'll get lucky and not have to drop the whole k member, just Lower it some and raise engine via engine hoist. But thanks for the input!


I cannot wait to hear what it sounds like with stage 2 cams, long tube headers and an off road bbk x pipe!

The headers are bbk as well but not ceramic, not the best brand but not the worst, got x and headers together new for 150 from someone on face book that wrecked there car
 
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What do you guys think about the motor being tilted? Like the engine is turned counter clockwise just a hair? The motor mounts seem fine when I put a jack under the motor and raise it a bit, bit they are hard to tell without removing them it seems. I will find out in the next day or two if maybe just a broken mount. I do drive this thing hard! Welded in subframe connectors a month ago and been doing a ton of suspension mods and now I don't have people passing me over the mountain roads I am passing them haha.


Here are the best two pictures of the engine being tilted, been like this since the day I owned it!
 

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What do you guys think about the motor being tilted? Like the engine is turned counter clockwise just a hair?!
Sure looks like it to me.

I know from personal experience the Mustang is very hard on motor mounts. When I did them on a 1996 GT it changed how high the motor was setting in the K-member by several inches. I notice a big difference in how the car "felt" after the change.

Recommend installing new motor mounts anytime major engine work is done.
 
Motor mounts being ordered today! Any recommendations on brands? I need to go cheap, but not cheap as in garbage. Just that the more I take apart the more I am spending lol . I would like the poly mounts, I think with the cams it would make for a nice harsh hot rod feel lol
 
IIgood: yes you do have to go under and bolt the mid pipe and few other things like o2 sensors, just was wondering if I could avoid the whole dropping k member by having the heads off and or unbolted so I could move them up or what not.

But thanks saberstang, for your input. I was wondering how tight it would be to bolt the headers to the heads even if I had them suspended a little off the block with my cherry picker, but since I have the whole engine torn down and waiting for parts I will remove the stock manifolds and h pipe then take it from there, maybe I'll get lucky and not have to drop the whole k member, just Lower it some and raise engine via engine hoist. But thanks for the input!


I cannot wait to hear what it sounds like with stage 2 cams, long tube headers and an off road bbk x pipe!

The headers are bbk as well but not ceramic, not the best brand but not the worst, got x and headers together new for 150 from someone on face book that wrecked there car
Hello I am doing the same thing on my 2000 Mustang. Well I got the right side in from the bottom. Looks like the left side if I hoist the engine up the left side may drop in. Hey did you yours in without dropping the K-member. I have my heads off as well.