Installation time?

PULMEOVR

I need a bigger E-Penis.
Sep 29, 2003
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27
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Guys ... quick...

What is the installation time for springs and CC plates?

A shop is telling me that it will take 1.5 hours per corner. Is this right?

That means it will cost approx. $283 after taxes. (converted to American) for a complete job. Seems expensive just to install these minor parts?


No guesses please, just people who know. Thanks.


Matt :)
 
PULMEOVR said:
Guys ... quick...

What is the installation time for springs and CC plates?

A shop is telling me that it will take 1.5 hours per corner. Is this right?

That means it will cost approx. $283 after taxes. (converted to American) for a complete job. Seems expensive just to install these minor parts?


No guesses please, just people who know. Thanks.


Matt :)
You could try doing it yourself. I've installed Springs & CC Plates on a 2000 GT a couple years back w/ a buddy & just yesterday I installed Springs on my Stang, mostly by myself. I think 1.5 hours per corner is very realistic.
 
How hard is it? I didn't want to screw with the suspension because I don't trust myself to, but is it that hard? I have a Haynes manual, but I am no mechanic.

So 1.5 hours is realistic, for a professional mechanic?

Thanks.
 
PULMEOVR said:
How hard is it? I didn't want to screw with the suspension because I don't trust myself to, but is it that hard? I have a Haynes manual, but I am no mechanic.

So 1.5 hours is realistic, for a professional mechanic?

Thanks.
I'm no mechanic. It took me 9 hours to install H&R Springs on my Stang yesterday. If you've never done it before, I would not recommend doing it yourself. It would be nice if you had a Mustang buddy who could help you. The only reason I did the install virtually myself yesterday was cuz I'd done to previous Spring installs. Or I could give you a thorough walkthrough if you'd like. It takes a lot of strength, so make sure you stay hydrated if you decide to do them yourself.
 
tomustang said:
Holy crap 9 hours?????????

I took 2 1/2 hours to do c/c's and springs.
Braggart. :cheers: LOL. I was working at a nice, easy pace, & taking plenty of water/Gatorade breaks & being interrupted by phone calls. Oh, & sorry, I forgot to mention that I also installed my C&L MAF System during that time span. Also, in order for me to get to the bolt on the top of my rear struts, I had to unbolt my stereo boxes and amplifier from my trunk. But before I did that, I tried using spring compressors cuz I didn't wanna hassle w/ unbolting my speakes and amp from the trunk. In other words, I wasted a lot of time when I wound up having to do it that way anyway.
 
downsouthman1 said:
I'm no mechanic.

Ain't that the truth. :jester: j/k man

Springs are real easy actually. I'd recommend doing them yourself. All you gotta do is take off the wheels and brakes. For the rear, all you gotta do is disconnect the lower control arms lower mounting bolts, and the shocks, this will allow the lower control arms to drop down so the spring can come out. I put the car up on jackstands and used the hydraulic jack to hold the control arms in place until I was ready to pull the springs. Be careful to not drop the control arms to fast or the spring can pop out and cause some serious damage. Spring compressors are totally unneccesary, I haven't ever used them, and I've taken the rear springs in/out more than once. I don't remember how long the springs took me, but I tore apart my whole rear suspension to do my upper and lower control arms and put it back together in 4 hours. This was wheels, brakes, lower control arms, upper control arms, shocks, quad shocks, and sway bar. So for a beginner you can probably do all the springs and c/c plates in an afternoon. Good luck, let us know if you need some more tips.
 
The hardest part about changing spring is playing with the spring compressor and realizing you don't need it. The compressor is usless. I did mine in the driveway in about 2-3 hours by myself. On the front taking out the strut makes it easier and with C/C plates they need to be unbolted anyways. On the rear I did not undo the LCA/s just the shocks. 1.5 hours per for a mech??? Not a good mech.
 
A decent mechanic should be able to do this in about 1.5 hrs per side. Some shops use a program like the dealers use that gives the time per corner. That is not unreasonable for a shop that stands behind the work. I can't imagine someone in a driveway with hand tools doing this (all for corners ) in two hours on jack stands with one floor jack.
 
Maybe I'm not understanding what the mech is doing in 1.5 hours. The rear is nothing more then putting the body on stands then with the jack on the pumpkin undo the shocks and the brakeline retainer. The front is more time comsuming but if you unbolt the struts from the top and I believe there is a brakeline there too. A mech with a left and the experience should definately not take 1.5 per. That is how these guys make a killing.
 
Ryan's 02 GT said:
Maybe I'm not understanding what the mech is doing in 1.5 hours. The rear is nothing more then putting the body on stands then with the jack on the pumpkin undo the shocks and the brakeline retainer. The front is more time comsuming but if you unbolt the struts from the top and I believe there is a brakeline there too. A mech with a left and the experience should definately not take 1.5 per. That is how these guys make a killing.

1.5 hrs is not making a killing.
you can do this yourself though. The rears you will unbolt shocks and upper control arms then drop rear as you stated. Getting the uca lined back up can be a PITA. Anytime I have to give a quote for my work , I always have enough time to cover my a$$. If I just do time and materials it almost always comes out cheaper.
 
forpit2000gt said:
1.5 hrs is not making a killing.
you can do this yourself though. The rears you will unbolt shocks and upper control arms then drop rear as you stated. Getting the uca lined back up can be a PITA. Anytime I have to give a quote for my work , I always have enough time to cover my a$$. If I just do time and materials it almost always comes out cheaper.

No need to unbolt the uca's You can unbolt the lca's or do like I did and just unbolt the shocks.
 
After i did my steeda CC theres 2 slots you can put the small one is for strett use the bigger one is for road race. I put it on the street slot at full neagtive camber for that slot which is -1.2 degrees and and full positive caster at 4.5 degrees when i took it for alignment the guy said that the alignment was good but since you are lowering the car yeah you should take it for an alignment.