Installed Mil's, "check engine" light still on?
- Thread starter Bundmar
- Start date
rescue1046
New Member
Its probably not showing a o2 sensor code in the computer. You may have another problem. Autozone will pull the code for free.
03-s281
New Member
Did you bend it?
I talked to the people from Dallas mustang at the 40th and he said the main problem is people bending them.
I say
Thats why I have never bought any. After my cam install
I'll get a dyno tune and have it flashed and removed.
50% of those things are junk.
I talked to the people from Dallas mustang at the 40th and he said the main problem is people bending them.
I say
Thats why I have never bought any. After my cam installI'll get a dyno tune and have it flashed and removed.
50% of those things are junk.
TriBlkCobra
Founding Member
03-s281, call BS all you want and you will still be wrong...
I've taken apart lots of returned sets to diagnose the problem and overbending causing mechanical failure of the units (literally pulling the circuit board apart) is a typical failure mode.
The DMP Mil Eliminators were designed to have a little structural integrity by themselves. The wire gauge is fairly high with stiff teflon insulation. Then the shrink wrap over sheathing adds further stiffness. This is done as theres not really a great way to tie things up under there so if you just wrap them together and keep them off the pipes they will be fine.
But if you gorilla bend them back on themselves you will tear contacts out of the shell, rip wires out of the contacts, or even destory the circuit board itself. We already respun the circuit board once beefing up the etch to try and relieve this issue, but the simple answer is quite obivious
DO AS THEY TELL YOU AND DONT BEND THEM BACK ON THEMSELVES!!!!!!!!!
I've taken apart lots of returned sets to diagnose the problem and overbending causing mechanical failure of the units (literally pulling the circuit board apart) is a typical failure mode.
The DMP Mil Eliminators were designed to have a little structural integrity by themselves. The wire gauge is fairly high with stiff teflon insulation. Then the shrink wrap over sheathing adds further stiffness. This is done as theres not really a great way to tie things up under there so if you just wrap them together and keep them off the pipes they will be fine.
But if you gorilla bend them back on themselves you will tear contacts out of the shell, rip wires out of the contacts, or even destory the circuit board itself. We already respun the circuit board once beefing up the etch to try and relieve this issue, but the simple answer is quite obivious
DO AS THEY TELL YOU AND DONT BEND THEM BACK ON THEMSELVES!!!!!!!!!
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