Installed my rear sway bar today

[LIZARDKING]

My bars came in Wed morning via UPS.

This morning before work I went to Lowes and bought the hardware. I bought grade 5. Im guessing Ford used metric, Lowes was out of the longer metric bolts, so I went with 7/16. Bolts, flat washers, lock washers, nuts ran me $10.

Today I installed the rear bar, I didnt jack up the car or take off a wheel. I did wrap rags around the end of the bar while I was jocking it into position. Only took about 45 minutes working by myself. Very easy install.

Tomorrow Im going for the front bar swap out.

No pics, they are just bone stock GT sway bars.

Im still gloating because I got such a great deal.

Did I mention how how great a deal?

$150 shipped for both sway bars + brackets + bushings and the GT H-pipe. All look brand new.

 

[shooterm1]

My bars came in Wed morning via UPS.

went to Lowes and bought the hardware. I bought grade 5. Im guessing Ford used metric, Lowes was out of the longer metric bolts, so I went with 7/16. Bolts, flat washers, lock washers, nuts ran me $10.

I wished I'd known .... I have a pair of the long shackle bolts left over from my install


FWIW, I think that you're making a mistake not using the correct Ford hardware.

 

[LIZARDKING]

I wished I'd known .... I have a pair of the long shackle bolts left over from my install


FWIW, I think that you're making a mistake not using the correct Ford hardware.

Why would you say that? Aftermarket bars dont use "the correct Ford hardware" That bar isnt going anywhere. I may change out the grade 5 for grade 8 because where I work we use alot of grade 8 hardware. Since its free, I may as well take advantage. If I do change it out, I'll wait until the next time I have the wheels off, makes it alot easier to get to the upper bolt on the endlink.

 

[bigcat]

i think he is talking about the 7/16" bolts instead of the metric. all new cars use metric, but there are some standard that slip through (like the inner door pull bolts, 1/4")

 

[shooterm1]

Why would you say that? Aftermarket bars dont use "the correct Ford hardware" That bar isnt going anywhere. I may change out the grade 5 for grade 8 because where I work we use alot of grade 8 hardware. Since its free, I may as well take advantage. If I do change it out, I'll wait until the next time I have the wheels off, makes it alot easier to get to the upper bolt on the endlink.

If you've seen the Ford hardware, their "nuts" are of a unique design ... I dont think anything that you could buy at the hardware store that will duplicate their design .........

So if you hear any popping or clicking coming from the rear - you'll know where its coming from.



PS, the Ford spec calls for 85 ft lbs of torque. I didn't really think it mattered either / but it does.

 

[bigcat]

If you've seen the Ford hardware, their "nuts" are of a unique design ... I dont think anything that you could buy at the hardware store that will duplicate their design .........

So if you hear any popping or clicking coming from the rear - you'll know where its coming from.



PS, the Ford spec calls for 85 ft lbs of torque. I didn't really think it mattered either / but it does.

are they the oblong nuts?

 

[LIZARDKING]

I know I didnt get anywhere near 85 ft lbs on those bolts.

The only way to get enough leverage is to remove the wheels.

I searched several different sites to see how the install went, no one mentioned that they torqued the bolts.

 

[shooterm1]

I know I didnt get anywhere near 85 ft lbs on those bolts.
I searched several different sites to see how the install went, no one mentioned that they torqued the bolts.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=582772

 

[shave35]

Is anyone that installed a rear sway bar having trouble with squeaking bushings???

 

[tylers65]

How about a write up for the Technical Write up thread?

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=606926