i put on a new t/c, w/p and o/r x and magnaflow exhaust. i have no exhaust leaks and im not leaking oil or antifreeze, since i have a new timing chain it would make sense to me to reset the ignition timing. i have a timing light but i dont know how to use it.
as long as you didnt pull the distributor and you put the chain on right, you shouldnt have to do anything. as far as the timing light, there isnt much to it. start the car, pull the timing spout (the little plastic clip) and point the timing light with the trigger pulled at the blancer. as the light is blinking, you should be able to see the number the the pointer is pointing to if you look close enough. that will be your timing.
Everytime I have installed a timing chain I have lined up the maks on the gears and reset the timing. Which of course involved getting engine to proper spot (TDC #1) and restab dizzy. If you are concerned I would be doing it that way. Sounds like you my have already buttoned it all up together. The other thing is you can install the cam gear in 3 spots. straight up or 4 degrees advanced or retarded I believe.
if you were smelling serious "fumes" i assume you mean fuel. And if this were the case....I think you would be running rich.
if you have a timing light this is how you check your timing.
- Before you get started...get under the car with a white grease pencil or a thing of white out and mark your harmonic balancer at 10° BTDC and at whatever you want to set the timing to. maybe like 12° and 14° for the time being.
- Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly but dont turn the dizzy at all just yet.
Attach the red power lead to the + terminal of your battery.
Attach the black ground clamp to one of the accessory brackets on the front of the motor.
(easiest)
Take the spark plug clamp and clamp that sucker onto a plug wire. Doesnt matter which
one...but i always use # 1. (dont know why)
Make sure the car is nice and warm before you set the timing.
Fire the car up...let it idle down...then pull the spout connector. This is the little grey plastic connector located right next to the distributor...in the dizzy wiring harness.
Now point the gun at the pointer on the harmonic balancer and pull the trigger. Twist the dizzy in whatever direction you need to so the pointer lines up exactly with the white-out mark your made earlier.
Shut the car off...bolt down the dizzy...replace the spout. take it for a drive.
Keep advancing the timing until it starts to ping...then back it off 1 or 2 degrees.
I was informed running lean will cause fumes that burn your eyes and is commonly mistaken as running rich. Suggestion: Take the car to a dyno tuner to get everything dialed-in right.
No matter how many times I post this, there are still some that haven't seen it...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.