Installed Pro-Kit springs...questions and I have a hum noise.

spock2001us

Member
Aug 23, 2005
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I put new Pro-Kit springs in...and it was a job that is for sure. For those who say you can do it without a spring compressor, I couldn't do it, so I got a spring compressor from Autozone. And I would never try to do the job without an impact wrench......to use the spring compressor, I had to insert 2.5 inch metal pipe (the one that is in the shock tower) so that I could tighten the spring and have plenty of room on the top of the spring when I installed it...(otherwise the screw in the spring extends beyond the spring when you tighted it).

Now that my springs are installed, the front did not drop as much as the rear....I have read that it may take some time for the springs to settle in...I hope so anyway. I used the lower isolators from En. Susp, and they are pretty thick.

Queston number 1) Was I supposed to put those rubber insert things back into the springs?....(not the isolators, I used new Energy Suspension isolators). On the front, I could not get them in with the spring compressor I had, then on the back, I put one in and forgot the other one.

I have a hum (at 50mph+) of some sort that sounds like it is coming from the front....could that be because I did not put the rubber insert thing back in? Or is it coming from the wheel bearing?....and if it is the wheel bearing, why did it show up now? I had brakes done years ago on another car and when I got the car back, the same whine/hum came from one of the wheel drums and I had to replace the bearings....and I do use the impact to put the lugs back on, so could that somehow goof with the bearings.....

Question number 2) I tried to get the LCA off so I could replace the bushings I got from Energy Suspension, but I gave up. I got the two inside nuts off, the big 24mm ones, but then the bolt would not budge....my 700 lbs of torque wrench would not budge the bolts after I removed the inside nuts by hand. What do I need to do in the future to remove the bolts from the LCA?
 
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spock2001us said:
I put new Pro-Kit springs in...and it was a job that is for sure. For those who say you can do it without a spring compressor, I couldn't do it, so I got a spring compressor from Autozone. And I would never try to do the job without an impact wrench......to use the spring compressor, I had to insert 2.5 inch metal pipe (the one that is in the shock tower) so that I could tighten the spring and have plenty of room on the top of the spring when I installed it...(otherwise the screw in the spring extends beyond the spring when you tighted it).

Now that my springs are installed, the front did not drop as much as the rear....I have read that it may take some time for the springs to settle in...I hope so anyway. I used the lower isolators from En. Susp, and they are pretty thick.

Queston number 1) Was I supposed to put those rubber insert things back into the springs?....(not the isolators, I used new Energy Suspension isolators). On the front, I could not get them in with the spring compressor I had, then on the back, I put one in and forgot the other one.

I have a hum (at 50mph+) of some sort that sounds like it is coming from the front....could that be because I did not put the rubber insert thing back in? Or is it coming from the wheel bearing?....and if it is the wheel bearing, why did it show up now? I had brakes done years ago on another car and when I got the car back, the same whine/hum came from one of the wheel drums and I had to replace the bearings....and I do use the impact to put the lugs back on, so could that somehow goof with the bearings.....

Question number 2) I tried to get the LCA off so I could replace the bushings I got from Energy Suspension, but I gave up. I got the two inside nuts off, the big 24mm ones, but then the bolt would not budge....my 700 lbs of torque wrench would not budge the bolts after I removed the inside nuts by hand. What do I need to do in the future to remove the bolts from the LCA?

I'm not sure if you got an answer already, but yes, to question #1. Eibach springs are a direct replacement of your stock. Everything that is stock in the car must be used again, including factory tubing. New isolator pads was a good way to go. All this will prevent noise and improper ride height. question# 2 :shrug:
 
for Question #2, I had the same problem. I assume you have stock LCA's right? Turns out on mine, the bolt had rusted solid to the metal inner sleeve inside the rubber control arm bushing. My final solution: torch. I burned the entire bolt out and replaced the bushing(s) with poly ones from Prothane and ordered a new set of control arm bolts from the Ford dealer. This may not be the problem you were having, but it is a possibility.
 
95riosnake said:
for Question #2, I had the same problem. I assume you have stock LCA's right? Turns out on mine, the bolt had rusted solid to the metal inner sleeve inside the rubber control arm bushing. My final solution: torch. I burned the entire bolt out and replaced the bushing(s) with poly ones from Prothane and ordered a new set of control arm bolts from the Ford dealer. This may not be the problem you were having, but it is a possibility.

Yikes.....I have new bushings already from En. Susp, and a torch, but I tried to burn a nut off one time before and all I did was make it red...I end up using a circ saw and a diamond blade and cutting the nut off.

I'll try the PB, Liquid Wrench, heat idea and see where that gets me. I don't want to try and burn the bolt out, cause then I may blow up the arm and the k member (or whatever the LCA is attached to.)