Installed Stereo Components and now battery draining

[savegoodautonfg]

I just installed 4 new door spekaers and a pioneer 600 watt amp to my 1990 ford mustang GT 5.0 and i already had 2 JL Audio Subwoofers and A MTX amp powering the subs. Now, after i installed the speakers and new pioneer amp my car died after i turned it off to get gas i went to start it and it wouldnt start. I got it jumped but now my battery level is lower then usual. What would anyone recommend I do?

I have the stock alternator in there and a regular battery.

 

[jadedinpa]

your alternator isn't able to keep up with demand. i would invest in a 3rd gen alternator and the required wiring to properly install it.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

I'm really new at all this stuff.

Where would i find this stuff?

 

[jadedinpa]

you can get the alt off ebay, and the harness as well. there is also a place called PA performance that deals in it as well. very good people from what i've heard.

 

[timewarped1972]

here's a good article to start with.....
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html

 

[savegoodautonfg]

I'm afraid to go and buy an alternator and it do nothing to fix my problem.

 

[Mr_Q]

Wow, that's a lot of BS to install a new alt! Who can I pay to do this for me?

I'm also pissed 50resto didn't say anywhere on their site that major modifications would be needed for install. They should have also offered a "kit" with all the wires and connectors needed.

 

[srothfuss]

Well, if your voltage meter is telling you that your not running down the road above 12volts, that mean's your alternator isn't up to the challenge of your stereo's demands.

A deep cycle battery will only cover up the problem, and not for very long. The 65AMP alternator was not even enough for a stock Mustang when they were original....

 

[timewarped1972]

it's really not that hard to do, i just did mine last month, it's worth it........
you can buy a 95 amp alternator but, the stock power wire is still too wimpy even with that, so if your gonna go through the hassle might as well do the 3 g....
basically all your doing is remove the old alternator. tie the upper radiator hose outa the way for room to work.
clearance the bracket as shown in the above article.
buy a heli coil for the bolt hole in the new 3 g, or you can just use a bolt and nut to hold it on.
mount the alternator. the one plug plugs into the new alt. the other plug, with the two black and orang wires is disconnected. you take the white wire from that, cut it, and either get the proper plug to wire on to it or use a crimp stly female spade connector. connect that to the small port on the new alt. you leave the rest of the plug, which now only has the two blk and orng wires disconnected.
then you buy or make a power wire. you can get one from pa performance for about 50 bucks ( or 5.0 resto)
you bolt one end of the power wire to the lug on the back of the new alt, then run the wiring under the air box, over the radiator ( there's already wires there you can run it along) and over to the starter selenoid where the positive batter terminal is connected.
make sure the pullys line up right, put the belt back on, your done!
some people go and remove the old wiring and do it different ways but, in a nutt shell thats basically all you need to do to get it going, you can go back later and do all the little detailed stuff later on....the hardest part is clearencing the bracket, and it doesn't take much...

 

[Mr_Q]

Thanks for more info.

I know my alt is never going to go anywhere near full load. I just have a wimpy cd player and no plans for aftermarket radio goodies or electric fans. The load should remain fairly low. I really just want the more stable idle charging these 3Gs offer.

So your setup sounds like it's better for me. Thanks again!

 

[HISSIN50]

As said, the retrofit is very simple to do. Jrichker has one outstanding post where he provides links to articles by M. Smith and MC, provides a parts list for things you need to piece together, and even provides a self-authored synopsis.

PAP does offer a wiring kit if one is afraid of the wiring. And radiusing the bracket is easy.

Good luck.

 

[Euphoric306]

if sherman oaks is near riverside california, come down with the parts and i'll help ya put it in for free

 

[Mr_Q]

if sherman oaks is near riverside california, come down with the parts and i'll help ya put it in for free

Why it is! Thanks!

I was going to do the simpler install where I reuse the existinf plug and wire, but run a new one to the solenoid. Still, I don't have anyway to grind the bracket.

 

[jrichker]

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. The resultant overcurrent capacity can make a nasty fire if the alternator develops a full internal short to ground.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

Prefab 4 gauge wiring with lugs already attached can be found in the electrical parts area of most auto parts stores. Use some string to lay out the cable routing and determine the length.

To do your own custom cable setup, here are the parts:

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

Don’t forget the alternator power ground!!!
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

 

[Jack's95gt]

Another possibility may be that your amp is on a constant power supply and not switched with the ignition switch. Your system amp may be pulling power while your car is off.
To test, charge up your battery and disconnect the power feed to the amp and see if the battery still drains when it is parked overnight.

 

[HISSIN50]

Or put a meter on the turn-on lead going to the amp to see if it is hot at all times.

 

[04sleeper]

With a big stereo system an alternator is just not enough.

I would also add a stiffening cap to it like these.
http://www.cardomain.com/shoptype/Stiffening+Capacitors

 

[Mr_Q]

I see in your parts list you mention using an actual fuseblock. Is this in place of the fueslink setup detailed in the "how-to'? I am guessing a fuselink is just a wire with the fuse built in?

 

[S&B]

I have a 140 amper i pulled out to put my 220 amper in, ill sell it for 70 bux shipped

 

[Mr_Q]

I have a 140 amper i pulled out to put my 220 amper in, ill sell it for 70 bux shipped

See this is why we need to figure out how to make a "for sale" section that works. The problem with these forums and their separate sections is NO ONE ever bothers to look in those places unless they are selling something.

Some one could post "WTB: whatever" and someone might have the part but they never go in there.

There has got to be a better way.

Yes, I would have loved to have bought your 140 for $70, but I just paid $189 for a 130 last week! :\