Installing a potent stereo into classic... advice?

[SadbutTrue]

My cadillac's smog pump died yesterday and left me stranded and im realizing that, at 213k miles, this is going to start happening more and more. So, despite loving the thing (a V8 that's comfy and roomy and gets 23-25 mpg highway... I've put 40k on it in 3 years and I got it for $200... )... I'm going to get rid of it.

It has a mild stereo system in it which I'd like to transplant into the Mustang. Pioneer head unit, Kenwood 800w/4x60w RMS amp feeding 2 6x9s and 2 5.5" speakers and a Hyphonics Zeus 600w amp feeding a CVR Kicker 12" sub. It isn't amazing but its pretty solid, I got it last year for about $700 installed and have really enjoyed it in the Caddy.

I'm pretty sure most of the system will transplant without much issue but have a few specific questions:

1. What, if any, alternator will I need to be able to power this setup? My Caddy's stock alternator did the job fine, but I imagine my Cadillac's alternator is substantially better than whats in my Mustang.

2. Will I be able to use the wiring harness used in my Cadillac or will I need a new one? If so, where do I get it?

3. The sub is in a pretty generic box... what are the chances it will fit? Any places sell custom boxes that fit classic mustangs fairly well?

4. What kind of sound insulation should I look at?

5. What basic measures can I take to minimize vibrations etc? I know some shaking and rattling is unavoidable but I'd like to keep it down as much as possible.

6. I know the 6x9s will fit, but what speaker size is recommended for the kick panels?

7. Similarly, I am pretty sure custom kick panels with speaker holes are avaliable... where?

8. Any advice on how to pipe the bass into the cabin without making it look tacky?

9. I might want to use the opportunity to wire up an a/c inverter or a few more charging ports (like cigarette lighters... my standard one is being used as a kill switch)... any advice there?

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated... thanks!

 

[Justin01]

Can't answer everything but here's a shot at what I know:

1. It would be best to upgrade alternators if it's using an original. 100 amp would be enough.

Mustangs Plus*::*Electrical*::*Alternators/Related Products

2. Not sure but crutchfield would be able to answer that.

3. What size box do you have? dimensions? If it's too big (tall) for the trunk, measure the space you want to put it and look here.

Sealed & Ported at Crutchfield.com

You could also hit up a local stereo installer to check a price for a custom box.

4. Dynamat extreme has worked for me before, but there are others as well.

5. Dynamat extreme or equal.

6&7. Mustangs Plus sells kick panels as well as several other companies. Most I have seen are ready for 6.5" speakers. On the 69-70 models the holes aren't precut, but I'm not sure about the 66's.

8. Why would you need to this? I get the concept but don't think it's necessary. Never seen it done before either. EDIT: If you dynamat the trunk I also don't think this is necessary.

9. No advice here as I want to do the same and am still researching this too.

Mustangsplus.com
nationalpartsdepot.com
yearone.com

I can usually find everything I need from these guys.

 

[SadbutTrue]

Can't answer everything but here's a shot at what I know:

1. It would be best to upgrade alternators if it's using an original. 100 amp would be enough.

Mustangs Plus*::*Electrical*::*Alternators/Related Products

2. Not sure but crutchfield would be able to answer that.

3. What size box do you have? dimensions? If it's too big (tall) for the trunk, measure the space you want to put it and look here.

Sealed & Ported at Crutchfield.com

You could also hit up a local stereo installer to check a price for a custom box.

4. Dynamat extreme has worked for me before, but there are others as well.

5. Dynamat extreme or equal.

6&7. Mustangs Plus sells kick panels as well as several other companies. Most I have seen are ready for 6.5" speakers. On the 69-70 models the holes aren't precut, but I'm not sure about the 66's.

8. Why would you need to this? I get the concept but don't think it's necessary. Never seen it done before either. EDIT: If you dynamat the trunk I also don't think this is necessary.

9. No advice here as I want to do the same and am still researching this too.

Mustangsplus.com
nationalpartsdepot.com
yearone.com

I can usually find everything I need from these guys.

Regarding the piping in the bass... the guys at the caraudio.com forums were getting on me pretty good when I said I had no plans of piping in the bass on my Caddy. The basic reasoning was a) it'll sound much better and b) if the sound has a clear path to the cabin, it won't shake the car and everything else as much (but shake your ear's more).

It probably isn't necessary... my 12" hits plenty hard in the Cadillac without piping it in, but in the interests of 'doing it right' I figured I'd ask if anyone had any ideas. I sorta could see making a hole of some kind in the rear deck and 'framing' it with some sort of plastic (or other material) edging so it looks okay, and then mounting the sub so it fires right into it.

I'll measure my current box when I get a chance.

I have an NPD about 20 miles away, I'll check their catalog to see what they have. Maybe make a trip down this weekend.

One other thing...

I had an issue with sound sort of fading in and out (not coming off completely, staying pretty loud but losing some 'punch'). Its tough to describe... but I was wondering if anything common, other than loose connections, could cause it? Can an audio store test the head unit and amps somehow to make sure the terminals are all working right?

 

[Justin01]

Regarding the piping in the bass... the guys at the caraudio.com forums were getting on me pretty good when I said I had no plans of piping in the bass on my Caddy. The basic reasoning was a) it'll sound much better and b) if the sound has a clear path to the cabin, it won't shake the car and everything else as much (but shake your ear's more).

Sounds like someone wasn't happy making a 1599 on their SAT's.
But seriously, I understand the concept, but with a properly insulated trunk and cabin, I just don't think it's necessary. I kind of want to get in a car now that has a ported cabin to see what the difference would be.

One other thing...

I had an issue with sound sort of fading in and out (not coming off completely, staying pretty loud but losing some 'punch'). Its tough to describe... but I was wondering if anything common, other than loose connections, could cause it? Can an audio store test the head unit and amps somehow to make sure the terminals are all working right?

You aren't pushing the limits of the amp are you? I assume you know what you're doing though don't get me wrong, but it sounds like it's maxed or a connection isn't solid like you said. Not sure.......

 

[iskwezm]

1. What, if any, alternator will I need to be able to power this setup? My Caddy's stock alternator did the job fine, but I imagine my Cadillac's alternator is substantially better than whats in my Mustang.I would suggest doing a 3g conversion and will be plenty and cheapest

2. Will I be able to use the wiring harness used in my Cadillac or will I need a new one? If so, where do I get it?Im not sure what "harness" you mean, but I would just run new wires.They're cheap and easier then stripping the donor car

3. The sub is in a pretty generic box... what are the chances it will fit? Any places sell custom boxes that fit classic mustangs fairly well?I sold a box to Suki243 that fit under the package tray in his 65 for the 12" sub i sold him

4. What kind of sound insulation should I look at?Im cheap, i like to use Peel N Seal from Lowes.Unless your entering a sound competion, dont pay for the big name brands,you wont gain anythiing noticable

5. What basic measures can I take to minimize vibrations etc? I know some shaking and rattling is unavoidable but I'd like to keep it down as much as possible.Make all bolts aree tight,bumper,adjust the deck lid to make a little tighter to the body

6. I know the 6x9s will fit, but what speaker size is recommended for the kick panels?I would use some 6.5 components.I have a few MB quarts left over at a good price

7. Similarly, I am pretty sure custom kick panels with speaker holes are avaliable... where?Check any mustang supplier

8. Any advice on how to pipe the bass into the cabin without making it look tacky?Make a new package tray and cut a hole in the sheet metal, maybe 6X6" and use some screen mesh.cover to match the interior.

9. I might want to use the opportunity to wire up an a/c inverter or a few more charging ports (like cigarette lighters... my standard one is being used as a kill switch)... any advice there?you can wire up some universal cig ports.I wired up a 800 watt inverter in the wifes FJ that will run pretty much anything,laptop,hair curler etc

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated... thanks!

if you need any prices on anything let me know

 

[Rusty67]

Put in a 3G alternator.

 

[suki243]

I also recommend a 3g alternator. I went on ebay and found eagleautoelectric who was nearby went there picked it up, ran to autozone, got it tested and put it in, fits and works and he gives a one year warranty

iskwezm's box

Not much modification needed, i had extra molding from the house sitting around, i screwed that to the bottom of the box covered it in carpet and from there used a corner metal bracket to connect one side to where the fuel tank bolts in and the other i drilled a hole to hump behind the seat.

The only rattling i had was the horse on the gas cap. after a month the decklid started to rattle but that was an easy fix , i just put a rubber spacer between it.