Installing distributer, pulled the valve cover off, rotated crank, watched intake valve open and lose, found 10* BTDC, installed distributer w/ rotor pointing at #1 plug wire, spout out, had my mom crank if over, didn't start, so I moved the dist. around, finally got it started after many dead batteries, threw the valve cover back on, got everything bolted back up and now it won't start. I cleaned the IAC w/ throttle body cleaner recently, will that cause it to have starting issues? Injectors all hooked up, TPS hooked up, MAF, everything. When it started, it sounded weird at the air filter, it was making a kind of buzzing sound....maybe that's it? I just had to super glue the filter to the base because it's a cheap mac one that the idiot before me had on there and I haven't gotten a K&N. It pops and junk, but just won't fire and it's driving me insane.
Installing Distributer, pops but no start...
- Thread starter TheUser
- Start date
You have to make sure that the number 1 cylinder is at top dead center, not before, not after. Then you can put the pointer towards the #1 plug on the cap and set the timing from there
chaka
Founding Member
bmorrisj
Member
you can have the dizzy/rotor pointed wherever you want....as long as you have the plugs in the right spot.....TDC/ rotor on #1 is just the standard/easiest way of firing 'er up.....
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer
2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.
Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.
4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
Distributor installation tech tip...
. Pull #1 plug, put your finger in the spark plug hole. Have someone crank the engine until it starts to blow air past your finger. Stop cranking, turn the engine by hand (breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, or put the car in gear and push) until the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the pointer on the passenger side of the engine. Loose the distributor hold down bolt, remove the clamp, cap and wires, disconnect the wiring harness. Pull the distributor straight up.
The following re-install depends on the engine being lined up as in the previous instructions.
To re-install, turn the distributor rotor to point to #1 cylinder position on the cap. The#1 position is about 11 o'clock if 6 o' clock is the front of the engine. Line the rotor up with it pointing at the #1 spark plug position on the cap and drop it in: you may have to twist the shaft some to get it to engage the oil pump shaft. Then remove the SPOUT connector plug, and use a timing light to set the timing. The SPOUT is the dangling connector on the distributor harness on stangs made prior to 94 and with a computer controlled engine. 10* is stock for most 5.0s' 12*-14* is good for more pep if you are not into NO2 or power adders.
1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer
2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.
Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.
4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
Distributor installation tech tip...
. Pull #1 plug, put your finger in the spark plug hole. Have someone crank the engine until it starts to blow air past your finger. Stop cranking, turn the engine by hand (breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, or put the car in gear and push) until the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the pointer on the passenger side of the engine. Loose the distributor hold down bolt, remove the clamp, cap and wires, disconnect the wiring harness. Pull the distributor straight up.
The following re-install depends on the engine being lined up as in the previous instructions.
To re-install, turn the distributor rotor to point to #1 cylinder position on the cap. The#1 position is about 11 o'clock if 6 o' clock is the front of the engine. Line the rotor up with it pointing at the #1 spark plug position on the cap and drop it in: you may have to twist the shaft some to get it to engage the oil pump shaft. Then remove the SPOUT connector plug, and use a timing light to set the timing. The SPOUT is the dangling connector on the distributor harness on stangs made prior to 94 and with a computer controlled engine. 10* is stock for most 5.0s' 12*-14* is good for more pep if you are not into NO2 or power adders.
50Mustang001: The cyc. was on TDC, which is why I said i found TDC and set the balancer on 10* BTDC...you DO set it at the dist. (10*, 12*, etc)before you install the distributer, right? I believe this is called base timing.
The distributer was out because i just replaced lower intake gaskets. The air filter really was making a weird noise, so i'm gonna pull it off later and see if it'll start...maybe it wasn't getting enough air. It did start, so i really doubt it's the coil and all that.
bmorrisj was saying that you really don't have to have the #1 cyc on TDC and rotor on 1, you could have cyc 4, for instance, on TDC and rotor on 4. Doing it with cyc 1 is just the simplest way to do it and that's kinda what everyone does.
I probably really shouldn't have posted this, but I was frusterated and wanted to get some fresh ideas. Thanks fellas...
The distributer was out because i just replaced lower intake gaskets. The air filter really was making a weird noise, so i'm gonna pull it off later and see if it'll start...maybe it wasn't getting enough air. It did start, so i really doubt it's the coil and all that.
bmorrisj was saying that you really don't have to have the #1 cyc on TDC and rotor on 1, you could have cyc 4, for instance, on TDC and rotor on 4. Doing it with cyc 1 is just the simplest way to do it and that's kinda what everyone does.
I probably really shouldn't have posted this, but I was frusterated and wanted to get some fresh ideas. Thanks fellas...
I checked for spark just for s & g's and I have spark (coil is giving off real good spark - I felt it first hand through the pliars 
). #1 had spark, #5 didn't when i arked it, but it did at the cap, so i'm sure it's prob. fine. I have been hitting the throttle when starting, so that rules out the IAB right? I pulled tha air filter off to make sure that wasn't the problem. It must be timing related, i'm sure, but i've moved that stupid thing around all over the place and it only started that one time and ran like absolute crap. Just a minute ago, it backfired or something, it made a really really loud pop that sounded like a gun shot...don't know what it was. I have my fuel pump hooked through a toggle, so it's on when the switch is on...40 psi, so unless the injectors aren't working or something, which the plug I pulled to find TDC this time spelled like gas, so they must be working. I've found TDC and dropped the dist. in like 5 or 6 times now and it just won't work
You are using a timing light to set the timing? The engine doesn't need to be running, just pull the SPOUT, crank with the key & shoot the marks.
Start at the beginning of the Cranks OK but won't start checklist and you'll find your problem. It finds 95% of the no start conditions and will help you pin down the real culprit.
Start at the beginning of the Cranks OK but won't start checklist and you'll find your problem. It finds 95% of the no start conditions and will help you pin down the real culprit.
Thanks Jrichker. I actually did start at the beginning of the list, coil has spark. Plug wire has spark. I put my new plug wires on. I have fuel pressure and plugs smell like gas. I did set the timing w/ a timing light. I ended up throwing some gas in the intake and it wouldn't start...backfired and shot flames out the air intake...still had air filter off. What are the chances of the timing chain jumping? It looked fine when I had the timing cover off a couple weeks ago. I think i'd sell the car, but I still owe more on it than I could sell it for...it's about half-way paid for...i'm really tired of it at this point. I guess i'll run back through the checklist again later on just to make sure.
Similar threads
