installing headers

passenger side is not too difficult but the egr tube to header tube is a pain. on the drivers side you will have to remove 1 brake line from master cylinder when i installed mine i removed the line at the master cylinder and pushed it carefully out of the way after install i reconected it i didnt even have to bleed brake system they worked great. i would recomend getting some type of HEX HEAD BOLT WITH 3/16 RECESSED ALLEN HEAD i used the bolts that came with my headers i had no problems with the bolts but in some of the tight places it would have been easier to use allen wrench to tighten. and torque to 16-32 lft.lbs.
 
If you have BBK you are golden. I learned my lesson with cheap headers. We had to bore the holes out to attach to heads and then exhaust would not bolt up correct on passenger side. I ordered BBK shorties and they went on without a hitch. You have play with the drivers side to get it in but not a rough job at all.
 
hummm, i had no problems at all. i installed flowtech shorties and i went from the top on both sides. I did not have to remove steering linkage or brake lines, just had to finagle them in there. the problem comes with bolting them up. u need small wrenches, forget about sockets. also, make sure you start and tighten first any header bolts where the clearance besides the tube is close, otherwise you cant get the bolts in. This is hard to describe, and unless youve done headers before you wont know what i mean. basically unless the tubes are notched where the bolts go, it can be a pain. i had one bolt on the pass. side like this and 1 or 2 on the drivers side. the offroad pipe was easy as well but getting it in the stock brackets was the hard part under the car.
 
i believe removing the steering shaft would be alot more difficult. than removing brake line. i have never removed the steering shaft from a mustang but i removed one from a sierra it had one bolt at the steering box and a bolt half way up shaft after both bolts were removed the shaft slid up out of steering box connection and then pulled out very simple. i believe all steering shafts are similar.
 
bill302 said:
i believe removing the steering shaft would be alot more difficult. than removing brake line. i have never removed the steering shaft from a mustang but i removed one from a sierra it had one bolt at the steering box and a bolt half way up shaft after both bolts were removed the shaft slid up out of steering box connection and then pulled out very simple. i believe all steering shafts are similar.

You mean "a lot more simple, right?"


Because the shaft is a piece of cake to remove....seriously.
Scott
 
mo_dingo said:
You mean "a lot more simple, right?"


Because the shaft is a piece of cake to remove....seriously.
Scott

remove one fitting at the end of brakeline where they enter the master cylinder and push line out of way remove then install header reconnect line and drive
(versus)
jack car up get under it remove approx. 2 bolts slide steering shaft up and out remove and install header reinstall approx. 2 bolts with steering shaft let car down off jack and drive.
everyone has there own way they like to do things, i hate jacking up a car and getting under it
 
bill302 said:
remove one fitting at the end of brakeline where they enter the master cylinder and push line out of way remove then install header reconnect line and drive
(versus)
jack car up get under it remove approx. 2 bolts slide steering shaft up and out remove and install header reinstall approx. 2 bolts with steering shaft let car down off jack and drive.
everyone has there own way they like to do things, i hate jacking up a car and getting under it
he's gotta jack the car up to take off the mid-pipe anyways. if you remove a brake line you have to bleed your brakes afterwards.

these are shorties though, he should not have to do any of that. put the drivers side in from the bottom, and the pass side in from the top.
 
bimmertech said:
he's gotta jack the car up to take off the mid-pipe anyways. if you remove a brake line you have to bleed your brakes afterwards.

these are shorties though, he should not have to do any of that. put the drivers side in from the bottom, and the pass side in from the top.


i installed mine and never jacked up the car and didn't have to bleed brakes you can remove the line at the master cylinder reconnect without getting air in system or i know i did it. i'll start a new thread about this subject.i could have just been lucky.
 
Do yourself a favor and get some longer bolts, preferably the locking kind, but in any case make sure you use something longer than the 3/4" that come with the BBK headers. I got some 1" Breslin locking bolts (SummitRacing.com) and have had no problems since.

Seriously, after you go through the pain of pulling and installing headers, the last thing you want to deal with is tightening those damn things and toying with them. Do it right from the start.

Good luck.
 
how the **** did you guys get the drivers side front bolt out the one behind the ac. i got all the others loose except for that one. also does anyone know the size wrench for the egr tube?
 
jtb19nh said:
how the **** did you guys get the drivers side front bolt out the one behind the ac. i got all the others loose except for that one. also does anyone know the size wrench for the egr tube?

Small cresent opened up all the way fit the EGR nut. I don't recall any major issues other than being thankful that I had locking bolts.
 
what did you guys use to get the drivers side front bolt out. i cant get a socket in there and im not sure if i can even get a wrench in there? aslo when installing the new ones do i just put the gaskets on and bolt up or do i need to use any rtv or anything?
 
jtb19nh said:
what did you guys use to get the drivers side front bolt out. i cant get a socket in there and im not sure if i can even get a wrench in there? aslo when installing the new ones do i just put the gaskets on and bolt up or do i need to use any rtv or anything?


7/16 wrench. major PITA. gaskets go on dry.