Im mounting these on the A-Pillar, both electrical guages, all i have to do is mount them up, run them through the firewall and connect them to the stock locations? Is that it? Pointers on this are welcome, its a first time thing!
You will need the AutoMeter sending units -- which can be in the stock locations if that's what you meant. You will also have to run power/ground/illumination wires. But in general -- that's all there is to it.
Yeah it is pretty simple. I have read that some water temp. gauges didn't come with the right adapters for a ford intake, but mine did. I also used a little dab of thread sealer on my sending units, although it probably doesn't have to have it. The wiring is pretty simple I just ran the power wire for the guage lights to the fuse for my dimmer switch so that the gauges will dim with the interior lights. I ran the power wire for the guages themselves to the fuse for my blower motor.
The Shape - thank you. i had posted that i thought someone (it had to be you or Jerry) had the adapters included. i was corrected, which is fine. but i thought i remembered correctly. im not nuts!
you can Tee the oil pressure fitting or pull the hex tube and tap it for another sender (will probably need an extension to accomodate the electric sender, so the Tee is easier). stock gauge sender is 1/4", IIRC. many aftermarket senders are 1/8".
you can relocate the stock temp sender to the rear of the lower intake (so your gauge is not dead). that location does not get coolant flow, but the gauge sucks anyhow. here is some info on it:
i would run the wiring in series (piggyback). i.e. one key on 12 volt wire (like from the heater as TS did) to the first gauge. then run a short wire from the first gauge's post to the second gauge. ditto for the lighting. run a decent ground wire, and piggy back them all (gauge and lighting) if you want. i only say that cuz some people have run a power wire to EACH gauge, a positive and ground lighting wire to each bulb, etc.
i would also put a 1 amp fuse on the wire you run for the lighting (from fuse 13). if your wire ever chafes/shorts, etc, hopefully the 1 amp fuse will blow before the whole ISO circuit goes. that way, you can see your gauges and dont take a chance on frying the dimmer, etc.