Installing Pressure Plate noob question

robl110

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Mar 7, 2006

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 13, 2010

#21

• Jun 13, 2010

• #21

That's what I have been tempted to do but read in a couple spots its a bad idea.

 

87GT Drop Top

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May 1, 2009

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South Florida

Jun 13, 2010

#22

• Jun 13, 2010

• #22

Mine was the same way. It slide in fine, but stopped just short of seating all the way. I pulled it in with the bolts with no problem.

 

V

v8only

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Jul 3, 2003

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Jun 13, 2010

#23

• Jun 13, 2010

• #23

I've pulled it in with the bolts before, and had no problems, however you don't want to do it. If it's not perfectly lined up, you'll jam the tip against your pilot bearing and destroy the pilot bearing.

Just connect the clutch cable, have a friend sit inside and step on the clutch, then get under the car and bench press it in, it'll slide right in like cake.

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

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Jun 14, 2010

#24

• Jun 14, 2010

• #24

agreed with above. get the trans up there and have someone step on the clutch. the trans will slide right in. bolt it up and have them let go. this takes the pressure plate off of the fly wheel and allows it to rotate with the throw out bearing allowing the splines on teh trans to align with the pressure plate. Sometimes you can try and rotate the main shaft by spinning the rear shaft by hand (might need to be in gear) this is more difficult that have someone just step on the clutch. and it works perfect. taking it out wont do anything except probably leave you in the same situation.

 

robl110

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Mar 7, 2006

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 14, 2010

#25

• Jun 14, 2010

• #25

Soon as I get the clutch cable reconnected to the pedal I will have a friend (wife) step on it while I hoist in the trans. I went to attach the clutch cable to the fork and realized I had a bunch of slack. Went inside the car and the pedal was loose. Now I need to find the clutch cable end and figure out how it attaches to the pedal. Any tips or tricks before I tackle the clutch cable =)

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 14, 2010

#26

• Jun 14, 2010

• #26

Its IN!!! I took out the front seat so I could squeeze under the dash and get the clutch cable hooked back up. I then had my wife press the clutch pedal while I used the alignment tool to center the clutch. She then had to leave for work so I was on my own. Trans slid in just like yesterday, still a 1/4 inch gap. With the trans secured with the jack I reached inside and pushed the pedal a few times. When I crawled back under the car it only took a slight push to get the trans and bell to mate.

Thanks for all the advice it's been a HUGE help!!!

 

87GT Drop Top

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May 1, 2009

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Jun 14, 2010

#27

• Jun 14, 2010

• #27

WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 15, 2010

#28

• Jun 15, 2010

• #28

Ok, I got everything back together. The local performance shop informed me I will probably experience some chatter for the first 1000 miles while breaking in. Could you guys take a listen to these videos and let me know what you think? The noise occurs when the pedal is out. Soon as I even rest my foot on the pedal the noise goes away.



YouTube - Mustang Spec Stage 3 Noise

YouTube - Spec stage 3 chatter mustang

As you can tell it sound much worse outside the car.

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 15, 2010

#29

• Jun 15, 2010

• #29

Noise is gone. I watched the Firewall Adjustment 101 video. Went back and adjusted it so a dime would just fit like the video stated. No noise at all now =)

 

V

v8only

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Jul 3, 2003

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Jun 15, 2010

#30

• Jun 15, 2010

• #30

sounds like your clutch adjustment is too loose.

the newer mustang style clutches are designed to have constant preload on the t/o bearing.

if it's a noise that goes away with partial pedal pressure, it's def a loose adjustment.

tighten the slack out of the clutch cable until it grabs slightly less than halfway or so in it's travel up.

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 16, 2010

#31

• Jun 16, 2010

• #31

v8only said:

sounds like your clutch adjustment is too loose.

the newer mustang style clutches are designed to have constant preload on the t/o bearing.

if it's a noise that goes away with partial pedal pressure, it's def a loose adjustment.

tighten the slack out of the clutch cable until it grabs slightly less than halfway or so in it's travel up.

Click to expand...

Yes Sir that's what was making the noise Thanks!

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 16, 2010

#32

• Jun 16, 2010

• #32

Just got home from test driving. All is working good. I really like the feel of the Spec Stage 3. I can tell its going to be fun when I can really push on the go pedal .

Thanks for all of the help!

Rob

 

V

v8only

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Jun 16, 2010

#33

• Jun 16, 2010

• #33

don't forget to break it in, 500 miles, no heavy throttle period!

 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

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Jun 16, 2010

#34

• Jun 16, 2010

• #34

Breaking in clutches is overrated

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 16, 2010

#35

• Jun 16, 2010

• #35

I am going to shot for 750 to 1000 mile break in. I hope there is plenty of sunny days so I can drive to work to rack up some miles.

 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

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Jun 16, 2010

#36

• Jun 16, 2010

• #36

Mine got 100, and that's because I was still adjusting everything else. Grabs hard as hell, no chatter. I don't drive my car 500 miles in a year, so the idea
of breaking my clutch in for 2 years wasn't cutting it.

 

robl110

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Oakdale, MN

Jun 16, 2010

#37

• Jun 16, 2010

• #37

Tanner I hear you on the miles. My car only has 37000 miles. If I was to drive it like I normally do it would take all summer. Kind of pains me to drive it a bunch just to get the break-in over.