Installing rack and pinion and lowering car question

When lowering the car, you should also replace the isolaters. The stock rubber ones are crap. That being said, if you are going to lower the car that much, it would be a good idea to get caster/camber plates.

hey.any lowering past 1.5 changes the geometry of the front end.caster camber definatly,also a bump steer kit to raise the rack to correct level.i just did it on my 89.also recommend solid rack bushings from maximmum motorsports.well worth the 50 bucks,tightens up the steering nicely.

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

You might want to think about new shocks & struts if you don't have aftermarket ones on there already. OE or stock replacement stuff usually doesn't handle the increased spring rate of lowering springs very well.

Definately install poly or solid rack bushings when you replace the rack.

You may not need a bumpsteer kit or c/c plates if you lower less than 1.5", though many say c/c plates are beneficial even on stock height cars.

If you go with a bumpsteer kit, definately get standard center drilled rack bushings, not the offset ones.

Kerpal said:

Definately install poly or solid rack bushings when you replace the rack.

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I've been meaning to ask this, and what better time................ It seems to me that MM doesnt recommend the above with stock K-members. How has your guys' experience been with doing so?

HISSIN50 said:

I've been meaning to ask this, and what better time................ It seems to me that MM doesnt recommend the above with stock K-members. How has your guys' experience been with doing so?

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Do you mean they don't reccomend solid bushings, or they don't reccoemnd poly as well?

I've been running center drilled ES poly bushings on my car for a few months with no problems so far.

Kerpal said:

Do you mean they don't reccomend solid bushings, or they don't reccoemnd poly as well?

I've been running center drilled ES poly bushings on my car for a few months with no problems so far.

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First off, my bad. I thought I read you mention offset bushings the first time. Your recommendation of straight-cut poly seems nice (I have some myself).

As for MM, I dont think they mind poly (which makes sense since it's still pliable), but I think they are against solid and off-set bushings. Here's a link to some of the info on their site about that.

I realize that as enthusiasts we do things that arent always recommended, and my intention in asking was to find out if you guys have actually had decent luck with offset or solid bushings. I didnt know if the recommendation was because 1% of cars have issues, or if many cars do. That's where real-world feedback comes into play.

And Webshot, I'm sorry to have intruded into your thread. I thought the info might be useful because if you are as lucky as I was, your reman'd rack (I didnt know if it was reman'd or brand new) will have the wrong bushings and you'll have to use your old craptastic ones or have some nice new ones on hand (that's why I have new poly bushings on the shelf).