installing springs this weekend.. Need some help...

[BigChiefSmokem]

SO, if you've been following any of my other threads, you'll know i had some eibach springs installed on my car, and honestly i'm not sure if they were installed right, cause the car is sitting kinda high.. Then again, it could be my tire size, etc.. etc. Either way i dont think i will be happy with a 1.5" Drop in the front and want to go to 2"... to make a long story short i bought the H&R super sports and will be putting these on myself this weekend. All of the install instructions say to be aware of which way the end of the pigtail on the bottom of the springs is facing when you take the originals off, but since i had a shop install ther eibachs, and i dont know if they put them on right, i cant tell for sure which way the pigtails are supposed to sit for it to be correct. can anyone help me out before i tackle this job this weekend? Can anyone tell me which way the very end of the pigtail is supposed to face front and rear, drivers side/passenger side? Any help would be appreciated... (I though the H&R's would come with instructions.. I was wrong..

 

[TruBlu03]

If I'm not mistaken, on the front there should be a groove to set the "pigtails" in. The back are the same on both sides I believe, so it shouldn't matter which way they go.

 

[ns80]

The rear springs should have their pigtails pointing at the drivers side of the car. The fronts don't really matter except that you're supposed to make sure one of the 2 drain holes aren't covered.

 

[Rocketman]

Back pigtails should both be pointing to the drivers side and the ends should set right at centerline of the lower control arms. Fronts should sit in the spring pockets of the A-Arm.

 

[Seraphitia102]

SO, if you've been following any of my other threads, you'll know i had some eibach springs installed on my car, and honestly i'm not sure if they were installed right, cause the car is sitting kinda high.. Then again, it could be my tire size, etc.. etc. Either way i dont think i will be happy with a 1.5" Drop in the front and want to go to 2"... to make a long story short i bought the H&R super sports and will be putting these on myself this weekend. All of the install instructions say to be aware of which way the end of the pigtail on the bottom of the springs is facing when you take the originals off, but since i had a shop install ther eibachs, and i dont know if they put them on right, i cant tell for sure which way the pigtails are supposed to sit for it to be correct. can anyone help me out before i tackle this job this weekend? Can anyone tell me which way the very end of the pigtail is supposed to face front and rear, drivers side/passenger side? Any help would be appreciated... (I though the H&R's would come with instructions.. I was wrong..

When did you put the Eibach's on? I heard that they take about 2-6 weeks to settle in, and then they'll be at their peak drop.

 

[Wikkdgt]

yeah the backs should face the driver side. You should've just got the sportlines. It's probably your tire size. I think when you run 18's you end up running a more low profile tire. I might be wrong on this though. Anyone else know for sure.

 

[MT1083]

Here's a pic in these instructions for a control arm install...
http://maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMRLCA-5r1.pdf

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

When did you put the Eibach's on? I heard that they take about 2-6 weeks to settle in, and then they'll be at their peak drop.

they have been on almost 3 weeks now. But even after the drop, and if they settled into the 1.5 inch drop, its still not enough for me.. i thought it would be, but its not.l plus i'm running a lower profile tire, so the gap is even more exagerrated...

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

yeah the backs should face the driver side. You should've just got the sportlines. It's probably your tire size. I think when you run 18's you end up running a more low profile tire. I might be wrong on this though. Anyone else know for sure.

So the passenger side rear should face towards teh driver side...and the driver side rear should face INWARD toward the driver side, or the same way the passenger side rear faces?

 

[blackink00]

i did they sportlines and theyre low. im goign to raise mine up though cause i cant stand being that low anymore. im going with some drag launch spring.

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

i did they sportlines and theyre low. im goign to raise mine up though cause i cant stand being that low anymore. im going with some drag launch spring.

No offense dude, but this has WHAT exactly to do with my thread topic?

 

[blackink00]

No offense dude, but this has WHAT exactly to do with my thread topic?

i dont know just getting a TECH POST

 

[flashstang04]

troll..


btw..make sure and get them adjusted right...

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

troll..


btw..make sure and get them adjusted right...

Make sure they're Adjusted right??? Um, you gonna have to be a bit more specific with what the heck you're talking about... BTW I wen to Pep Boys and picked up some spring fluid to go along with my headlamp fluid, which was low.

 

[mustang70]

So the passenger side rear should face towards teh driver side...and the driver side rear should face INWARD toward the driver side, or the same way the passenger side rear faces?

It should face the same way as the passenger side spring.

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

It should face the same way as the passenger side spring.

Thanks man. Any advice for the fronts, someone earlier mentioned how they should line up in the a arm, any further advice?

Also, and stupid stupid question... SHould i jack up the front and rear of the car by my MM Subrame mounts? Would that be ok?

 

[mustang70]

When you look into the lower control arms you'll see a pocket for the end of the spring to sit in. You'll see what I mean when you look. Then it's just a matter of lining it up as you slide the spring in.

Are you talking about where the subframes connect to the unibody? If so, it should be fine. What are you going to do with the Eibachs when you're done?

 

[flashstang04]

Make sure they're Adjusted right??? Um, you gonna have to be a bit more specific with what the heck you're talking about... BTW I wen to Pep Boys and picked up some spring fluid to go along with my headlamp fluid, which was low.

Oh, specifics hmmm ok:

*ahem*


Removal procedure:

1. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on Jackstands. Remove the
rear wheels.
2. Remove the upper shock absorber stem nut, washer and grommet (save these pieces, they will be
reused). If the stem turns use locking pliers or very small open-end wrench to keep it from turning.
3. Remove the lower shock-mounting bolt. Remove the shock.
4. Remove the factory lower shock mounts.
5. Using a spring compressor, remove the factory coil spring.

Coil-over assembly:

1. Remove the lower rubber shock eye bushing from the shock absorber.
2. Install the o-ring into the threaded sleeve (Lakewood and Koni shocks only, Monroe GP shocks do
not use the o-ring.)
Note: For Koni and Monroe GP shocks, the steel dust cover must be cut off. Koni shocks also require that the
service nut be turned or ground down to 1.68” in diameter.
3. Install the aluminum-bronze shock eye bushing by holding them in place and sliding the safety sleeve
over the shock absorber body and bushings. (Note: The holes in the expanded end of the safety
sleeve should line up with the holes in the bushings.)
4. Slide threaded sleeve should line up with the holes in the bushings.
5. Thread on the adjusting ring and run it all the way down on the threaded sleeve. (Note: The shoulder
on the adjusting nut faces upward.)
6. With the shock absorber fully extended, install the new coil spring, hat, and 2” diameter rubber
grommet provided.

Installation (Note: It maybe necessary to remove the quad shock for adequate spring clearance.):

1. With the lower shock mount removed; Use a ½” drill to pin up the square hole in the axle directly
above the bolt hole for that factory shock mount. Install the new lower shock mount with the
hardware provided. Note: 5/16” thick spacer goes on the top stud between the mount and axle.
2. Install the coil-over assembly by positioning it in place and inserting the shoulder bolt through the
lower mount, safety sleeve, and aluminum-bronze bushings. (Note: Be careful not to over tighten
the 3/8” lock nut.)
3. Insert the shock absorber stem through the mount in the body by placing a jack under the axle and
slowly raising it (make sure to center the stem in the mounting hole). From inside the car, install the
factory grommet, washer and stem nut. Tighten the stem nut securely.
4. With the axle unsupported, thread the adjusting ring upward approximately 2-1/2 inches as an initial
setting.


Shouldve got the fluid at autozone .99 cent special

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

Oh, specifics hmmm ok:

*ahem*


Removal procedure:

1. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on Jackstands. Remove the
rear wheels.
2. Remove the upper shock absorber stem nut, washer and grommet (save these pieces, they will be
reused). If the stem turns use locking pliers or very small open-end wrench to keep it from turning.
3. Remove the lower shock-mounting bolt. Remove the shock.
4. Remove the factory lower shock mounts.
5. Using a spring compressor, remove the factory coil spring.

Coil-over assembly:

1. Remove the lower rubber shock eye bushing from the shock absorber.
2. Install the o-ring into the threaded sleeve (Lakewood and Koni shocks only, Monroe GP shocks do
not use the o-ring.)
Note: For Koni and Monroe GP shocks, the steel dust cover must be cut off. Koni shocks also require that the
service nut be turned or ground down to 1.68” in diameter.
3. Install the aluminum-bronze shock eye bushing by holding them in place and sliding the safety sleeve
over the shock absorber body and bushings. (Note: The holes in the expanded end of the safety
sleeve should line up with the holes in the bushings.)
4. Slide threaded sleeve should line up with the holes in the bushings.
5. Thread on the adjusting ring and run it all the way down on the threaded sleeve. (Note: The shoulder
on the adjusting nut faces upward.)
6. With the shock absorber fully extended, install the new coil spring, hat, and 2” diameter rubber
grommet provided.

Installation (Note: It maybe necessary to remove the quad shock for adequate spring clearance.):

1. With the lower shock mount removed; Use a ½” drill to pin up the square hole in the axle directly
above the bolt hole for that factory shock mount. Install the new lower shock mount with the
hardware provided. Note: 5/16” thick spacer goes on the top stud between the mount and axle.
2. Install the coil-over assembly by positioning it in place and inserting the shoulder bolt through the
lower mount, safety sleeve, and aluminum-bronze bushings. (Note: Be careful not to over tighten
the 3/8” lock nut.)
3. Insert the shock absorber stem through the mount in the body by placing a jack under the axle and
slowly raising it (make sure to center the stem in the mounting hole). From inside the car, install the
factory grommet, washer and stem nut. Tighten the stem nut securely.
4. With the axle unsupported, thread the adjusting ring upward approximately 2-1/2 inches as an initial
setting.


Shouldve got the fluid at autozone .99 cent special

Coil Overs? I didnt get coil overs

 

[BigChiefSmokem]

When you look into the lower control arms you'll see a pocket for the end of the spring to sit in. You'll see what I mean when you look. Then it's just a matter of lining it up as you slide the spring in.

Are you talking about where the subframes connect to the unibody? If so, it should be fine. What are you going to do with the Eibachs when you're done?

Thanks, and yes i'm talking about where the subframes connect to the unibody. Good to know i can jack her up there. The place i bought the eibach's from offers a 60 day money back guarantee, no questions asked. So i'm returning them.