How hard is this to do in a garage with jack stands?? Never done it before, any advice or "how to"?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Installing Upper/Lower Control Arms
- Thread starter 88GTStreetRod
- Start date
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
It's a good days worth of work, and some muscle required, but I did mine alone and with no previous experience..took me 10 hours to complete. Must haves for the job...complete 3/8 and or 1/2 drive socket set with deep sockets in metric and imperial sizes, breaker bar, big hammer, steel punches, four jack stands and definately two jacks. You'll also need to read up as much as you can for tips and get some replacement axle bushings (no sense in not replacing them then..the'll need it). One tip I'll give is watch the break lines on the axle and the line from axle to body they will be in the way at times and you'll need to use caution when working around them. I did the lowers first and had some difficulty aligning the axle for the uppers, that's were the mucle comes in...but in the end I would put it at a 6 in difficulty if you have the tools.
If your sleeves on the insides of the bushings are rusted to the bolts, your fuct.
bubba-dough
Active Member
Since you have never done it set aside a full day since chances are they have never been off and you will more than likely run into the dumbest crap for problems that will set you back (like the axle bushings). Get another person to help you. Its a pretty straight foward job. After they have been changed the next time you upgrade or whatever it should only take like 2 hrs tops.
FORCED2DV8
New Member
Yeah i agree with the others, If they have never been off, its going to be a pain. A torch doesnt hurt either.
Blk91stang
Member
Not a fun nor easy job at the least, especially on jackstands! (I did mine on a lift and had problems). If you decide to tackle it yourself do yourself a favor and get some new GRADE 8 BOLTS for the lower control arms from your local hardware store. Chances are they are rusted away and being they support your car, I would get some new ones for a couple bucks!!!
btw- Pry bars, hammers, breaker bars, and Penetrating oil are ALL your friends!!!
btw- Pry bars, hammers, breaker bars, and Penetrating oil are ALL your friends!!!
Thanks for the info... I have the originals on the car, never been off. You would think if you replace one control arm at a time, it would not be that bad. I would think the hardest part is getting to them while the car is on jacks.
I am assuming that you use the floor jack to raised and lower the axle to get the control arm to drop into place?
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
i did my lowers, and the uppers had been done, if i were to do them both at once i would first put the car on jack stands then jack under the pumpkin with one jack, with the other jack put it under one lca, take the all the nuts off both ends and the shock, take the rear bolt out and slowly release the jack under the lca watch out b/c that spring is under pressure, then repeat on the other side, now slowly drop the jack under the pumpkin watching for the break line, as mentioned above, then you can tackle the uppers and then go and do each side of the lcas,
fyi, i used and ratchet strap to pull the rear tire forward so i could line up the bolts on my new lca, if you have a friend you wont need the strap.
fyi, i used and ratchet strap to pull the rear tire forward so i could line up the bolts on my new lca, if you have a friend you wont need the strap.
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
04sleeper
Founding Member
Did all four several times on several cars. Not too hard. Took me about 2 hours.
I wouldn't pay someone to do it. Thats just me.
I wouldn't pay someone to do it. Thats just me.
rd
Founding Member
Its not that hard, but there are some ins and outs.
From my 79 and 82 experience, you need an 18mm deep socket and an 18 mm box wrench. Remove the swaybar first. They are a pain.
You will need at least a pair of jack stands, two pair is better, because you need to support the car and the axle while it is disconnected, separately.
Jack the car by the frame in front of the lower arms, pull the lower rear bolts, and get the springs out. Then pull the uppers.
I have always reinstalled the uppers first, but last time, I reinstalled the lowers and springs first, and then did the uppers and it worked. Just a suggestion.
If you are just doing the arms, you can leave the brakes and stuff untouched.
From my 79 and 82 experience, you need an 18mm deep socket and an 18 mm box wrench. Remove the swaybar first. They are a pain.
You will need at least a pair of jack stands, two pair is better, because you need to support the car and the axle while it is disconnected, separately.
Jack the car by the frame in front of the lower arms, pull the lower rear bolts, and get the springs out. Then pull the uppers.
I have always reinstalled the uppers first, but last time, I reinstalled the lowers and springs first, and then did the uppers and it worked. Just a suggestion.
If you are just doing the arms, you can leave the brakes and stuff untouched.
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
tunedin302 said:I was j/k
i know but it was funny
i always get so fing giddy when i get new parts i just rush into things, ive started to learn to slow down but its so hard when the big boy gets his new toys
Once your done your gonna feel good about your self, till you drive it, then you might not feel so good if something's wrong
CoupedUp
Banned
Last minute point ... don't tightened the bolts completely until the suspension is compressed (as if it was sitting on level ground) ... you want to avoid binding the bushings as much as possible.
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