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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Intake/Cam on stock engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter DRock9
  • Start date Start date Jan 7, 2007
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DRock9

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
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Jan 7, 2007
#1
  • Jan 7, 2007
  • #1
I am looking to upgrade my intake and cam on my Fox, mods are in my sig.

I want to eventually work my way up to heads and I want to go with the Trickflow Street Heat intake and a Stage 1 cam, is this a good combo and will it work with a stock engine? It is going to mainly be a street car, so is the Stage 1 the cam for me or should I get the stage 2?

Also, if I do the Top-end gradually buying eveything separately it seems like I will end up spending a lot more money in the long run since the heads don't come with rockers/lifters/pushrods...and I am debating sticking it out for 1-2 more months and buying it as one kit.
 

ponyboy19

Founding Member
May 24, 2000
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Jan 7, 2007
#2
  • Jan 7, 2007
  • #2
If your a month or two out, buy it all as one kit and be done.
As far as your question, personally I would leave the stock cam in as long as you are using the stock heads. I would add an intake such at the street heat or Edelbrock performer, 73-76mm maf, CAI, and a 65-70mm throttle body to it though. Once upon a time, I used and eldelbrock performer intake with stock heads and cam (everything else changed from induction to exhaust) and picked up a TON in the quarter mile.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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Jan 7, 2007
#3
  • Jan 7, 2007
  • #3
Thanks, I think i'll wait till I have enough!
 

ponyboy19

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May 24, 2000
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Jan 8, 2007
#4
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #4
DRock9 said:
Thanks, I think i'll wait till I have enough!
Click to expand...

that's what I'd do
 

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Jan 8, 2007
#5
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #5
PonyBoy has alread given you the best advice you are gonna get.

From a Dollar vs HP issue you are better off waiting untill you can afford the entire kit as a whole (especially if the end result is to acquire all the parts that come in the kit).

IF you know you won't be able to realistically afford the kit for a long while work on building the car in different ways with cheaper supporting mods... I.E. exhaust, gears, and suspension/chassis work like LCA/UCA's, subframes, and etc.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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Jan 8, 2007
#6
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #6
Done exhaust, gears, sfc's, and I was going to get LCA/UCA's along with Strut Bar and K-member brace but I decided to do engine mods instead because with the closest track 2hrs from me...most I do is roll racing.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#7
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #7
I just added it all up and if I purchase everything separate I will only be spending about $150 more than if I bought it as a kit, which isn't a large enough difference to warrant waiting another 1-2 months to purchase it as a whole IMO. So which cam would you guys suggest for a street machine? Stage 1 or 2?
 

ponyboy19

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May 24, 2000
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#8
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #8
It may be only a 150 dollar difference, but you led us to believe you could have the complete kit in a month or two, so why would you want to tear it all apart to do a cam swap and intake, then tear the top half back apart in just a short while to do heads? Save yourself some work and money in gaskets and fluids and do it all at once IMO.
But to answer your question stage 1 is plenty on a 9:1 302/306 with box stock aluminum TFS heads. Bigger is not always better. But if you choose to add a cam before a set of good heads, you may have issues with valve float due to weak and worn out valve springs in your stock E7's. So you may want to replace your valve springs on the stock E7's with a cam swap. Personally I'd leave the stock cam in there with the stock heads, it's a pretty decent match IMO
 
S

seijirou

Founding Member
Aug 15, 2002
2,417
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48
DFW
Jan 8, 2007
#9
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #9
Hey I could use $150 for anybody else who needs to throw it away
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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#10
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #10
ponyboy19 said:
It may be only a 150 dollar difference, but you led us to believe you could have the complete kit in a month or two, so why would you want to tear it all apart to do a cam swap and intake, then tear the top half back apart in just a short while to do heads? Save yourself some work and money in gaskets and fluids and do it all at once IMO.
But to answer your question stage 1 is plenty on a 9:1 302/306 with box stock aluminum TFS heads. Bigger is not always better. But if you choose to add a cam before a set of good heads, you may have issues with valve float due to weak and worn out valve springs in your stock E7's. So you may want to replace your valve springs on the stock E7's with a cam swap. Personally I'd leave the stock cam in there with the stock heads, it's a pretty decent match IMO
Click to expand...

I can have the whole kit in a month or two...I am not sure I need to make the decision though...I might just end up building a motor myself out of the car then put it in. How much does it cost for a shop to do HCI?
 
M

MustangGT95

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Jul 29, 2003
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Jan 8, 2007
#11
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #11
I wish I still had my stock cam. I replaced it when I got a new motor. Stuck an e303 cam in...lost all low end. It sucks.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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Jan 8, 2007
#12
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #12
Well of course if its not paired with proper heads/intake.
 
1

1SLO306

My 97 GTP owns you ALL!
Mar 31, 2005
904
1
17
Muhlenberg, ky
Jan 8, 2007
#13
  • Jan 8, 2007
  • #13
yup i agree wait. plus the intake and cam wouldnt do much with stock heads anyway
 
S

seijirou

Founding Member
Aug 15, 2002
2,417
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48
DFW
Jan 9, 2007
#14
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #14
MustangGT95 said:
I wish I still had my stock cam. I replaced it when I got a new motor. Stuck an e303 cam in...lost all low end. It sucks.
Click to expand...

replace your timing chain, while you're at it get an adjustable timing gearset, and advance that cam 4 degrees to get your low end back.
 
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DRock9

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Aug 22, 2006
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Jan 9, 2007
#15
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #15
Which kit should I get? I think I will be getting it here since it is free shipping...

http://www.apdperformance.com/874-k514350370b.html

http://www.apdperformance.com/874-k514360350b.html

For some reason the second kit has the Track Heat Manifold and the first has the Street Heat...I think I will get the Street Heat for the sake of matching powerbands plus I dont want to sacrifice 25lbs of torque for 10hp.

And why do no top end kits come with lifters? Can I use the stock ones?
 

Flavadave4

Active Member
Nov 28, 2003
1,044
21
49
Utica, NY
Jan 9, 2007
#16
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #16
Save your money untill you can afford the kit. You will happy you did when you start the install.
 
1

1SLO306

My 97 GTP owns you ALL!
Mar 31, 2005
904
1
17
Muhlenberg, ky
Jan 9, 2007
#17
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #17
MustangGT95 said:
I wish I still had my stock cam. I replaced it when I got a new motor. Stuck an e303 cam in...lost all low end. It sucks.
Click to expand...

i have a stocker sittin in the garage. its can be urs for 40 shipped
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Jan 9, 2007
#18
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #18
get the whole kit and upgrade heads, cam and intake all at once. just putting a cam and intake on wont do much bc the stock heads would choke it badly. all u would get from that is a cam lope and loss of your low end. then by the time the cam and intake really start wanting to scream, the stock heads wont have it and u will hit a wall.
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Jan 10, 2007
#19
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #19
DRock9 said:
Which kit should I get? I think I will be getting it here since it is free shipping...

http://www.apdperformance.com/874-k514350370b.html

http://www.apdperformance.com/874-k514360350b.html

For some reason the second kit has the Track Heat Manifold and the first has the Street Heat...I think I will get the Street Heat for the sake of matching powerbands plus I dont want to sacrifice 25lbs of torque for 10hp.

And why do no top end kits come with lifters? Can I use the stock ones?
Click to expand...

The Street Heat heads are plumbed for the factory air pump and the Track Heat heads are not. If you do or think you may have to do emissions in the future get the Street Heat kit.

You can reuse the original roller lifters but if they have some miles on them I'd spend the extra hundred bucks and replace them. I've never heard of a roller lifter going bad but I wouldn't want to be the first guy to have to write about it.
 
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