intake gasket question

S

schwbs5.0

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Oct 29, 2004

#1

• Oct 29, 2004

• #1

intake gasket question need help fast want to do this tomorrow!!!

where my lower intake gose to the heads can i just use that make a gasket stuff.or should i go get the gaskets and if so where can i buy them?
the intake is a trickflow street.

 

5spd GT

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#2

• Oct 29, 2004

• #2

schwbs5.0 said:

where my lower intake gose to the heads can i just use that make a gasket stuff.or should i go get the gaskets and if so where can i buy them?
the intake is a trickflow street.

Click to expand...

Don't use the gasket maker...use an actual gasket...

Summitracing sells gaskets (I use the FEL-1250 gasket) but that is for the AFR heads and Performer intake...I'm not for sure what intake gasket you need...

The only reason I use gasket maker for an intake gasket is to put a couple dabs underneath the gasket to hold it in place while you lower the intake on...

Good Luck

 

8

88gtpower

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leander,tx

Oct 29, 2004

#3

• Oct 29, 2004

• #3

USE GASKETS!!!! you can get them at any parts store... i just put a new intake on mine and like a dumbass re-used the ones on thier, and pumped my engine full of anti-freeze and now i have a bearing knock!!!! so i gotta pull the whole damn engine , for not buy new gaskets for 20 bucks

 

S

schwbs5.0

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#4

• Oct 29, 2004

• #4

thanks for the info
how long you think it will take to put the upper and lower on?

 

jwzg

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Oct 29, 2004

#5

• Oct 29, 2004

• #5

It's about a 1 hour job. One felpro kit for the lower contains endgaskets that are blue silicone and have a channel in the top and bottom for a bead of RTV as well as a locating dowel. See if you can find use those. The RTV on top and bottom makes for a positive seal and takes the guess work out of simply using a bead of RTV in place of the end gaskets.

Also, find four bolts the same size as your manifold bolts and remove the heads from the bolts. Screw them into each corner and place your gaskets on the heads and ends. Set the manifold over the headless bolts, remove them and replace with the manifold bolts. Your manifold is now ready to be torqued down. (Courtesy: Michael Yount)

 

5spd GT

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#6

• Oct 30, 2004

• #6

Here is what I did and seems to be very successful and was showed this by a buddy of mine that builds race cars...

I put a couple dabs under the 1250 gasket and positioned the gasket over the ports as perfect as possible and then allow those dabs under the gasket to dry...so it will not move as I lower the intake on...

I put a nice thick bead of high temp silicone on the block ends and let it sit for about 10 minutes to "film" over and then set the lower intake on...you can use long studs installed into your heads to help you lower the intake down and then remove the studs after it is seated...

I slightly torqued the intake down after the "filming" (about 10 minutes) and lay the intake down just to get a little "squish" on the silicone and then let it sit overnight...

The next day I did the final torqueing procedure with the torque numbers (somepeople go by feel) and that was that...absolutely no leaks of any kind...

On mine I had to trim a little bit of the coolant passages on the gasket because it was protruding into the passageway...

Don't use the block ends that come with your gasket kit (it caused me to do the "intake install" twice because it "squished" out)...just put a nice thick bead of silicone...

Expect a few hours to do it...one hour simply isn't enough time for a first timer and you have to transfer some of the "hardware" from your old intake to the new one...and then letting things sit and dry...

Don't start your car up after completing the silicone/intake...let it sit overnight to cure and then fire it up and go from there...

Mark your distributor before removing so you know how to install it when you take it out...

Good Luck

 

TrickStang37

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#7

• Oct 30, 2004

• #7

dude your trippin if you think for a first timer its gonna be a one hour job.

 

jwzg

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#8

• Oct 30, 2004

• #8

Yup, I'm trippin. That is provided everything is labeled, well organized and pre-assembled as much as possible (i.e. coolant return lines, throttle body and vaccum lines). However, if you use the "bead of RTV" method of making an end gasket, you'll be half a day or more waiting for it to set up. The factory has been using endgaskets for years, and with the RTV on the top and bottom of the silicone end gasket, you can't beat it. Use the trick above with the four cut off studs to line it up and it's pretty straightforward if a bit intimidating.

 

R

Ray@VSK

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#9

• Oct 30, 2004

• #9

I think he meant one hour once the upper is all torn down.

 

jwzg

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#10

• Oct 30, 2004

• #10

Ray@VSK said:

I think he meant one hour once the upper is all torn down.

Click to expand...

....and lower.

 

TrickStang37

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#11

• Oct 30, 2004

• #11

those gaskets can take a while to clean off the heads too if they are really stuck on there.

 

jwzg

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#12

• Oct 30, 2004

• #12

TrickStang37 said:

those gaskets can take a while to clean off the heads too if they are really stuck on there.

Click to expand...

Geez, you just keep adding time I forget that I did my install on clean heads. You are right...that is a big PITA. BTW, lay some cardboard in the lifter valley to keep all of the gasket bits from finding their way into the oil galleys, and keep a shop vac handy to suck out coolant and old oil as well as the pieces that get into the intake ports. Don't forget to take it all out when you're ready to put on the intake.

 

TrickStang37

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#13

• Oct 30, 2004

• #13

thats what im here for Im just remembering the nightmare scraping the intake gaskets off the the stock heads was, the egr ports were horrible. after a couple hours and gallons of gasket remover I gave up and said **** it and ordered the trickflow heads. I had planned on puttin my motor back to stock after it got stolen and everythin was missin, but the gasket scrapin was enough to change my mind. so i guess im keeping the car

 

5spd GT

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#14

• Oct 30, 2004

• #14

jwzg - You say you have to wait on the silicone to setup...but your using silicone on your end gaskets? So why not just use silicone all the way thru because the "curing" time of the silicone will be the same (filming on the top)...

I (as in above post) used silicone and the end gaskets and it squirted out...(and could have blown out if it isn't allowed to dry properly - overnight would be good enough)...so I went the pure silicone route and have had no problems whatsoever and drive it everyday...so that is my method...the one that works

No need to rush an intake install...do it right or do it twice...

 

TrickStang37

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#15

• Oct 31, 2004

• #15

yeah, ive used the pure silicone method a few times with zero problems.

 

jwzg

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#16

• Oct 31, 2004

• #16

The silicone is there simply to assist in sealing and locating the gasket, it's not to be the gasket itself. Use a little on the corners where the heads and block come together for additional sealing. It's cleaner, takes the guesswork out how high to build the bead, and if you screw it up you don't have a complete mess to fix. The "build a bead of silicone method" was originally started becasue all of the factory and aftermarket gaskets were cork and were notorious for blowing out. The silicone gasket is channeled the bottom so it fits over the lip of the block mating surface as well as uses a dowel to keep the front located. There is no way that's blowing out once the manifold is torqued down, and I didn't have wait for it to cure before I started it.

 

5spd GT

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#17

• Oct 31, 2004

• #17

jwzg said:

The silicone is there simply to assist in sealing and locating the gasket, it's not to be the gasket itself. Use a little on the corners where the heads and block come together for additional sealing. It's cleaner, takes the guesswork out how high to build the bead, and if you screw it up you don't have a complete mess to fix. The "build a bead of silicone method" was originally started becasue all of the factory and aftermarket gaskets were cork and were notorious for blowing out. The silicone gasket is channeled the bottom so it fits over the lip of the block mating surface as well as uses a dowel to keep the front located. There is no way that's blowing out once the manifold is torqued down, and I didn't have wait for it to cure before I started it.

Click to expand...

Well if you put silicone in the corners you would need to wait till it drys anyways...if you were using the "proper waiting period" - overnight

Well when you find out the "build-up of the silicone" ins't enough it is usually still wet...so either you can wipe it off or add more

 

04sleeper

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#18

• Oct 31, 2004

• #18

I've used Blue RTV for the front and rear of the intake/block gasket for years now and never had a leak.

 

jeffnoel

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#19

• Oct 31, 2004

• #19

89sleeper said:

I've used Blue RTV for the front and rear of the intake/block gasket for years now and never had a leak.

Click to expand...

Same here but with the Black RTV, never had a leak.

 

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2002BLGT

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#20

• Oct 31, 2004

• #20

I was taught by an old timer ...( guy 4 houses down from my parents that worked on nothing but fords since time began ) to put silicone on heads right around the coolant jackets along with on the corners , he said if you ever had a sealing issue it would be on the coolant jackets since you have the pressure on it when its hot and the silicone just adds a little more protection from blowing out under pressure ...I have always done this and advised others to do so and never seen one leak ....