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Intake manifold gaskets: Cork "strips" or just RTV sealer?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ozanracing
  • Start date Start date Jan 31, 2007

ozanracing

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Nov 28, 2006
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Jan 31, 2007
#1
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #1
Just ordered these intake gaskets, fel pro 1262, do you guys use the cork strips or just a bead of RTV sealer? I couldn't find the felpro blue rubber ones.
Got a PN# for those BTW?
 

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blue87stang

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Jan 2, 2007
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#2
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #2
rtv with no cork gasket. the cork will just push out
 

twolo4u2c2

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Jan 31, 2007
#3
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #3
the intakes I just got at autozone.... and the blue rubber one are in there.
 

Mustang78

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Feb 8, 2006
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Jan 31, 2007
#4
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #4
ultra grey RTV here, i've bene taught to use that and nothing else, so i dont have any experience with the cork except pullign apart an engine that used em, without problems it seemed, but they can slip out of palce easily

~Mark~
 
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mfewtrail

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Jan 31, 2007
#5
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #5
I use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker from Permatex on the corners of intake manifolds(it drys to form a rubber gasket which is pretty easy to cleanup the next time you need to work on the engine).
 

mob

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#6
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #6
The cork gaskets work fine. Jrichker helped me do mine a while ago and we used blue silicone on the ends, and the cork gaskets. Ive also used the blue ones. You should be fine either way.
 

OonDeanisS

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Feb 1, 2007
#7
  • Feb 1, 2007
  • #7
i'd look for the blue rubber kind, i got mine at autozone also, and i just put rtv at the corners of that and not a drop leaked.
 

ozanracing

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Nov 28, 2006
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Feb 1, 2007
#8
  • Feb 1, 2007
  • #8
Thanks guys.
 

jrichker

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#9
  • Feb 1, 2007
  • #9
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
 
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