Internal Problems, should i sell the stang?

va01gtstang · Jun 21, 2005

My motor keeps making a weird tapping noise and i went to a few local shops and both places said its a wrist pin that is out of place and it will cost around 2000 grand to fix (1400 for labor). They also said that if they just fix the one wrist pin this doesn't mean its a sure fix. Both places also had many GTs there also for the same reason and they said it must be the year where all modular motors decided to screw up. So...should i just fix the problem or sell the car (I don't have enough money to rebuild the motor)?

hotdog71 · Jun 21, 2005

Does your tapping noise come and go and what the hell is a wrist pin? how bad is it?

My 03 GT makes a wierd tapping noise on driver side some times I only have 29k miles on the clock, in fact my brother in-laws 03 GT does the same thing he has like 35k.
The car doesn't feel any different performance wise.

If it's my money and a shop that says it's may fix it! then I wouldn't let them touch my car or you could be waisting your money.

What did Ford tell you?

lgndracer · Jun 21, 2005

hotdog71 said:
what the hell is a wrist pin?

The wrist pin is what holds the piston and the connecting rod together.

hotdog71 · Jun 21, 2005

oh! so it's rather an important part then!!! thanks

So would that cause the noise being discribed above then? humm!! maybe I have the same problem then

rjstaaf · Jun 21, 2005

This TSB might apply to your situation.

Engine - Ticking Noise When Idling
Article No.
03-25-6

12/22/03

ENGINE - ROMEO BUILT 4.6L 2V - TICK NOISE FROM ENGINE - ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003
FORD:
2001-2004 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, E SERIES, EXPEDITION, F-150
2002-2004 EXPLORER

LINCOLN:
2001-2004 TOWN CAR

MERCURY:
2001-2004 GRAND MARQUIS
2002-2004 MOUNTAINEER

This article supersedes TSB 03-16-4 to update the engine, engine build date and part numbers.
ISSUE
Some vehicles, equipped with the Romeo built 4.6L 2V engine, with an "ENGINE BUILD DATE" prior to 9/17/2003 may exhibit an engine tick noise that is present at all temperatures during idle. The noise may be emanating from the valve guide area in the cylinder head. The noise may be more prevalent in the front wheel well area and may not be heard with the hood open.

ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure listed in this article to properly evaluate/diagnose the vehicle condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE THIS ARTICLE APPLIES ONLY TO VEHICLES WITH A "ROMEO ENGINE" BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003 (ENGINE BUILD DATE NOT VEHICLE BUILD DATE). THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS TYPICALLY FOUND ON THE ENGINE LABEL LOCATED ON THE VALVE COVER.

1. Verify the source of the noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.

2. Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter area, from underneath the vehicle).

3. Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks.

4. Verify that the tick noise is still present when canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the injectors one at a time.

5. Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01) and retest vehicle.

6. Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque, re-torque to specification (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01).

7. Check hydraulic lash adjusters for a possible "spongy" condition (refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-00).

8. Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has been removed.

If the above diagnostics do not eliminate the noise while the cylinders are cancelled, replace the cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number 4L3Z-6049-AA (RH) or 4L3Z-6049-BA (LH). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.
NOTE THE REPLACEMENT CYLINDER HEAD WILL NOT IMPROVE OR REDUCE PERFORMANCE.

hognutz · Jun 21, 2005

Sounds to me like that is a "guess" on thier part unless they were able to localize and exact cylinder.

I would look into the ticking head issure a bit.

If it really is a problem on the bottom end you just have to ask youself do you want to keep the car??? Mine is paid for so if my bottom end went I would just upgrade and throw 14psi at it with a KB.

now if you still owe on the car our are a bit upside down I would cash out of it if there is a major problem.

showstopper2 · Jun 21, 2005

I have not heard a late model 2v yet that doesn't have this noticeable tick coming from the driver side. my 04 makes it but it hasn't affected performance one bit yet. just sounds like a lifter not getting oil. the driver side head also has cooling issues since the hot coolant puddles at the back of the head with no place to go get recirculated like on the passenger side.

va01gtstang · Jun 21, 2005

I know what tick everybody is talking about and its not the same tick that i'm talking about. This noise is more of a knocking noise. Its happens when i idle and when i'm just cruising around 2000 rpm. But when i get on it, the knocking goes away, then when i slow down, it comes back again. I was told by other people that it may be my lifters. Also, if it were an internal engine part such as the wrist pin, i would think that i would lose a lot of power since one cylinder wouldn't be working properly, but it doesn't really feel as if I lost any power at all that i can notice.

stangman · Jun 21, 2005

you could possibly be detonating on one cylinder. put some hgh test in there & see fi that helps. you could also have a spark plug that is loosening and/or getting ready to come out of the head, so check the plugs too

inferno9898 · Jun 26, 2005

i think i might have the noise that is discussed in that TSB, and I want to go check to see if its still there when i cancel all the cylinders. It says to unplug each injector individually...is this as easy as it sounds? something i could do in 15-20 minutes while the car is idling?

Superhereaux · Jun 26, 2005

inferno9898 said:
i think i might have the noise that is discussed in that TSB, and I want to go check to see if its still there when i cancel all the cylinders. It says to unplug each injector individually...is this as easy as it sounds? something i could do in 15-20 minutes while the car is idling?

each injector (8 pink/orange things under the hood ) has an electrical connection. just unplug 'em, no tools required

will take 10 min to check all 8

inferno9898 · Jun 26, 2005

exactly what i wanted to hear, thanks

inferno9898 · Jun 26, 2005

alright, removing the injectors didn't affect the noise. it is heard most clearly in between the frontmost two injectors on the drivers side. i can hear the ticking coming out of one exhaust pipe, in time with the exhaust pulses, but cannot hear it very well at idle from the front of the car or inside the car, mostly because of the exahust note. does this sound about right? if so, is this something i need to learn to live with, or something i should get looked at?

Roger_4.6_96 · Jun 26, 2005

inferno9898 said:
alright, removing the injectors didn't affect the noise. it is heard most clearly in between the frontmost two injectors on the drivers side. i can hear the ticking coming out of one exhaust pipe, in time with the exhaust pulses, but cannot hear it very well at idle from the front of the car or inside the car, mostly because of the exahust note. does this sound about right? if so, is this something i need to learn to live with, or something i should get looked at?

Exhaust leak ticks really bad.

inferno9898 · Jun 26, 2005

the noise comes more from the topside of the cylinder head (where it meets the intake) than from the bottom (where it would meet the exhaust). that leads me to believe its somewhere in the valvetrain

Valnar300 · Feb 21, 2015

va01gtstang said:
I know what tick everybody is talking about and its not the same tick that i'm talking about. This noise is more of a knocking noise. Its happens when i idle and when i'm just cruising around 2000 rpm. But when i get on it, the knocking goes away, then when i slow down, it comes back again. I was told by other people that it may be my lifters. Also, if it were an internal engine part such as the wrist pin, i would think that i would lose a lot of power since one cylinder wouldn't be working properly, but it doesn't really feel as if I lost any power at all that i can notice.

Mine acts like va01gtstang does. anybody ever figure out what it is/was?

Ryan03Roush2 · Apr 18, 2017

va01gtstang said:
I know what tick everybody is talking about and its not the same tick that i'm talking about. This noise is more of a knocking noise. Its happens when i idle and when i'm just cruising around 2000 rpm. But when i get on it, the knocking goes away, then when i slow down, it comes back again. I was told by other people that it may be my lifters. Also, if it were an internal engine part such as the wrist pin, i would think that i would lose a lot of power since one cylinder wouldn't be working properly, but it doesn't really feel as if I lost any power at all that i can notice.

I have the EXACT same issue you are reffering to, did you ever figure out what exactly caused it? Frustrating

Dark04GT · Apr 18, 2017

Ryan03Roush2 said:
I have the EXACT same issue you are reffering to, did you ever figure out what exactly caused it? Frustrating

Louder exhaust, a vortech supercharger, and a Tial BOV will mute out all mild tick sounds.

Internal Problems, should i sell the stang?

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