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Is a 289 worth building?

  • Thread starter Thread starter budguy211
  • Start date Start date Sep 8, 2005
B

budguy211

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Apr 16, 2004
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Sep 8, 2005
#1
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #1
I got a 289 block (C5AE) that is punched .40 with a stock crank and a comp cam, and that is about it for the block. Is this even worth trying to build or should I just get a roller block and build that one? Thanks for any info.
 

Lyncher

New Member
Jun 14, 2005
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Sep 8, 2005
#2
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #2
go wit h a roller 302 imo
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
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42
69
Tuscola, tx
Sep 8, 2005
#3
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #3
if memory serves, the C5 block is a 5 bolt bell pattern, which won't even bolt up to a late model tranny, so go for a newer block...
 

bobcatv8

Member
Aug 25, 2004
141
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16
Ocala,FL
Sep 8, 2005
#4
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #4
.040 over is gettin' on the "run hot" side of things with a 289-302. Also if you want to use a 50 oz. 302 one piece rear main seal crankshaft you'll have the old 2 pc./1 pc. crank seal problem. All 289s were 28 oz. balance engines if you use the 289 rotating assy.
Stick with a 80's roller block for headaches sake!
 
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budguy211

New Member
Apr 16, 2004
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Sep 8, 2005
#5
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #5
Thanks for the help. It is a 6 bolt bell pattern. Do you know anyone/anywhere where I can get rid of the block?
 

Lyncher

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Jun 14, 2005
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Sep 8, 2005
#6
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #6
Yeah the junkyard lol
 

Dbeck002

New Member
Apr 30, 2005
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South florida
Sep 8, 2005
#7
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #7
Build it up, not everyone has a 289. Plus they are just as reliable as the 302.


Oh and they can rev high
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
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Tuscola, tx
Sep 8, 2005
#8
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #8
bobcatv8 said:
.040 over is gettin' on the "run hot" side of things with a 289-302. Also if you want to use a 50 oz. 302 one piece rear main seal crankshaft you'll have the old 2 pc./1 pc. crank seal problem. All 289s were 28 oz. balance engines if you use the 289 rotating assy.
Stick with a 80's roller block for headaches sake!
Click to expand...

yeah, the older blocks have a 2pc RMS, but that's what i'm running in mine right now...after 10 years, I still have no leaks-while other friends of mine running the late model 1pc seals are having leaking problems...oh well

the blocks really aren't that much different save for a few things; water passages are different, the main webbing is centered instead of offset like the roller blocks, and the old style has shorter lifter bores...you'd either have to run a flat tappet cam, or do one of the two types of conversions to run a hyd roller...1) run the stock type lifters and spyder with a small base circle cam (~$300), or run the stock type roller cam with the really expensive bar type lifters ($425-$450/set)

but, like several have said-it's gonna be easier to get yourself a roller block
 

giddyup306

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
3,041
2
59
Sep 9, 2005
#9
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #9
Dbeck002 said:
Build it up, not everyone has a 289. Plus they are just as reliable as the 302.


Oh and they can rev high
Click to expand...


Yes as a matter of fact the old shelbys revved in excess of 8k and made good hp at high RPM. Farly durable too.
 
R

ratrapp2

New Member
Jun 24, 2005
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Sep 9, 2005
#10
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #10
build the 289.i had one in a 65 galaxy when i was in high school back in the late 80s and i gave all the new mustangs all they wanted.i miss how hard they rev.i would try to find another block because anything over .030 does make them run alittle warm unless you have a nice radiator/fan combo.
 

Paul Perreca

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Sep 9, 2005
#11
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #11
keep your eyes peeled, i got my 302 block w/ pistons, crank, cam, lifters, etc... shortblock for only 250, and its bran new.... they are out there, better off w/ a 302 in my opinion, because so many ppl do them, theres more ppl to answer any of your questions, and a better chance that the answers willbe right....
PauL Perreca
 
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