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is Modine a high quality brand?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockin_rick
  • Start date Start date Mar 18, 2004
R

rockin_rick

Member
Oct 9, 2003
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Mar 18, 2004
#1
  • Mar 18, 2004
  • #1
I just got a new "high quality" heater core from Latemodel Restoration Supply, and it's a Modine. Does Modine have a reputation of being high quality or not??

If I'm going to the trouble of replacing the heater core, I don't want to put a low quality one in there, only to have to do it again soon. Any thoughts?

Rick
 

cardudeusa

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
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Mar 18, 2004
#2
  • Mar 18, 2004
  • #2
I dont know anything about them, but I figure an OE one lasted about 10+ years, so I'll be going to Ford to get mine.
 

408stroker5.0

The world would be a better place if all males jus
Mar 10, 2004
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Mar 18, 2004
#3
  • Mar 18, 2004
  • #3
Yes, Modine is known for good quality.
 

rd

Founding Member
Jan 12, 2000
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63
109
Ocean Springs MS
Mar 18, 2004
#4
  • Mar 18, 2004
  • #4
rockin_rick said:
I just got a new "high quality" heater core from Latemodel Restoration Supply, and it's a Modine. Does Modine have a reputation of being high quality or not??

If I'm going to the trouble of replacing the heater core, I don't want to put a low quality one in there, only to have to do it again soon. Any thoughts?

Rick
Click to expand...

Modine has been around forever, seems to be quality, and I think they are an oem supplier.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Mar 19, 2004
#5
  • Mar 19, 2004
  • #5
again agreed
 
R

rockin_rick

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Oct 9, 2003
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Mar 20, 2004
#6
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #6
Here's a new twist. I peeled back the Modine label to find another label. It's a Ready Aire #39 8307. Does Ready Aire source Modine's heater cores? Is someone trying to pull a fast one? Did the two companys (recently) merge?

Latemodel Restoration Supply listed this as "Made in America" in their catalog, and the box says "Made in Mexico". Should I make them take it back? Or is Ready Aire a high quality product, also?

Rick
 

Attachments

  • modine label.webp
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  • ready aire label.webp
    16.4 KB · Views: 192

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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Mar 20, 2004
#7
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #7
rockin_rick said:
Here's a new twist. I peeled back the Modine label to find another label. It's a Ready Aire #39 8307. Does Ready Aire source Modine's heater cores? Is someone trying to pull a fast one? Did the two companys (recently) merge?

Latemodel Restoration Supply listed this as "Made in America" in their catalog, and the box says "Made in Mexico". Should I make them take it back? Or is Ready Aire a high quality product, also?

Rick
Click to expand...

Thats wierd... Ready Air is what we carry at Advance Auto.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
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Charlotte, NC
Mar 20, 2004
#8
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #8
Rick - in the global economy that we're all a part of (even those in denial) it's very common that companies will either buy parts for resale from another manufacturer, or buy the whole company to participate in a new market segment. Modine has been known for years in the heat transfer coil business -- my guess is, as with so many other things, they found they could buy the core from another supplier and resell it for a greater profit margin than they could manufacture it themselves. Probably from an offshore supplier. Would it surprise you to know that Ford Racing makes virtually none of the stuff they sell? Others make it and their name goes on it -- in the case of 1.7 rockers, you can clearly see the "Crane" logo on every one.

No fast ones have been pulled - put your heater core in. A tip for making it last. The coolant in our cars picks up minerals from tap water (should use distilled) and from the metal bits it's circulating in. It often creates a solution that will actually conduct small amounts of electrical current. In effect your engine/coolant system acts like a week battery - and the heater core becomes a sacrificial annode - actually losing metal as the 'battery' operates. It's called galvanic corrosion and it occurs whenever you have dissimilar metals in a common solution that will conduct electricity. It's the same process that causes water pump and t'stat bolts to corrode and break off (usually when you need to change the pump and are stranded far from home with the wrong tools). As more metal is lost from the core, it eventually springs a leak. In the worst cases a new copper core can be leaking in as little as 2-4 years. To avoid that, when you install, take a piece of wire and strip the insulation back. Attach it to your copper core and then ground the other end of the wire to the chassis somewhere. I simply stripped about 2" of insulation off, wrapped the expose wire around one of the copper hose connections, and put a stainless clamp around it to hold the wire in contact with the core. That ground connection basically keeps the core from being a sacrificial annode in the weak electrical circuit that can form from salts in the coolant, and the dissimilar metals of the block, heads and heater core. Your heater core will last longer. A freebie from Mikee.
 
R

rockin_rick

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Oct 9, 2003
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Mar 20, 2004
#9
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #9
Michael Yount said:
A freebie from Mikee.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mikee, I do appreciate it when you step in and help me out. I knew to ground my Fluidyne radiator, I never though of the heater core. I will do that.

Rick
 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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Mar 20, 2004
#10
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #10
Michael Yount said:
Rick - in the global economy that we're all a part of (even those in denial) it's very common that companies will either buy parts for resale from another manufacturer, or buy the whole company to participate in a new market segment. Modine has been known for years in the heat transfer coil business -- my guess is, as with so many other things, they found they could buy the core from another supplier and resell it for a greater profit margin than they could manufacture it themselves. Probably from an offshore supplier. Would it surprise you to know that Ford Racing makes virtually none of the stuff they sell? Others make it and their name goes on it -- in the case of 1.7 rockers, you can clearly see the "Crane" logo on every one.

No fast ones have been pulled - put your heater core in. A tip for making it last. The coolant in our cars picks up minerals from tap water (should use distilled) and from the metal bits it's circulating in. It often creates a solution that will actually conduct small amounts of electrical current. In effect your engine/coolant system acts like a week battery - and the heater core becomes a sacrificial annode - actually losing metal as the 'battery' operates. It's called galvanic corrosion and it occurs whenever you have dissimilar metals in a common solution that will conduct electricity. It's the same process that causes water pump and t'stat bolts to corrode and break off (usually when you need to change the pump and are stranded far from home with the wrong tools). As more metal is lost from the core, it eventually springs a leak. In the worst cases a new copper core can be leaking in as little as 2-4 years. To avoid that, when you install, take a piece of wire and strip the insulation back. Attach it to your copper core and then ground the other end of the wire to the chassis somewhere. I simply stripped about 2" of insulation off, wrapped the expose wire around one of the copper hose connections, and put a stainless clamp around it to hold the wire in contact with the core. That ground connection basically keeps the core from being a sacrificial annode in the weak electrical circuit that can form from salts in the coolant, and the dissimilar metals of the block, heads and heater core. Your heater core will last longer. A freebie from Mikee.
Click to expand...

Wow, never knew that. Could you solder the wire to the heater core?
 
R

rockin_rick

Member
Oct 9, 2003
968
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17
Mar 20, 2004
#11
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #11
cardudeusa said:
Could you solder the wire to the heater core?
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking of doing, I don't see why not. Here's a pic of the heater core. This is for a 94-98, fox's are different.

The yellow circle is about where I was thinking of doing it.

Rick
 

Attachments

  • end shot of heater core.webp
    25.5 KB · Views: 149
  • overhead view of heater core.webp
    20.6 KB · Views: 163

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Mar 20, 2004
#12
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #12
Yeah - you could solder it. Mine was already installed (forgot to do it during installation); I could barely reach the two hose connections with everything back together, so I sanded the copper to clean it up, and just clamped the wire to it. The ohm-meter indicated virtually no resistance between the core and the ground, so I figured I was ok. But soldering it before you put it in is much more elegant.
 

bart

New Member
May 16, 2003
243
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0
tn
Mar 21, 2004
#13
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #13
modine is here in our town, they make alot of rads for oem vehicles. mostly dodge and ford. ive had alot of freinds work there. theres an ironic thing to it also....we also have a plant called Dura here, makes windows for autos, and they make alot of mustang and rear windows for Ford SUVs. so two plants in a small town makin ford stuff. kinda pointless. sorry. lol.
 
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