Is the factor weight on the rear diff necessary?

[pissedoff92]

I'm rebuilding a rear end for my car and I want to install the upr axle tube braces but the picture looks as though you use the holes where the factory weight bolts. Is the weight a necessity? or is it safe to remove it. The whole reason im even building a rear end is because I blew the axle tube out of the centersection on the original rear end. so the braces are sort of added insurance

 

[Gearbanger 101]

If you're talking about the rear "dog bone" that bolts to the diff, then it will depend if you've changed out the stock gears when you did the rear end or not. The weight was designed to dampen vibration in the driveline. Swapping out to higher numeric gearing makes it next to useless anyway, so unless you're picking up any vibration in the dirveline, feel free to leave it off.

 

[jrichker]

The answer is: it cost Ford money to put it on there. If they could have figured a way to leave it off and save a buck, they would have done it. Sometimes you can take it off and if everything is balanced just right, it won't be noticeable. If not you'll feel a tingling sensation in the shifter and the seat of your pants...

 

[Shakerhood]

If you're talking about the rear "dog bone" that bolts to the diff, then it will depend if you've changed out the stock gears when you did the rear end or not. The weight was designed to dampen vibration in the driveline. Swapping out to higher numeric gearing makes it next to useless anyway, so unless you're picking up any vibration in the dirveline, feel free to leave it off.

I believe that is an old internet myth, the part number for the dogbone covers a wide range of gear sets.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I believe that is an old internet myth, the part number for the dogbone covers a wide range of gear sets.

Agreed...but the fact remains that the weight is there, to dampen vibrations created by the driveline. With higher numeric gear sets, comes faster driveshaft speeds. With faster driveshaft speeds, comes increased driveline vibration...which at some point makes the dog bone a useless pile of metal and forces the owner to concentrate on balancing the components themselves....not masking them with a heavy steel damper.

 

[Blandnuts]

At what point does it become "a useless pile of metal"? Do you have data that shows this? Like, the increase in vibration for different gear sets.

 

[Mustang5L5]

After rebuilding my diff and painting it, I chose to leave it off.

I still have it. If I feel any vibration I'll put it back, but do far so good


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

 

[Gearbanger 101]

At what point does it become "a useless pile of metal"? Do you have data that shows this? Like, the increase in vibration for different gear sets.

Have you any data to disprove my point? It's not rocket science. The faster you spin a driveshaft, the more out of whack it becomes. Higher numeric gear sets, increase driveshaft speed. This is a fact. Consider how "thrown together" our Fox's are, along with the spongy rubber isolators and bushings that separate our drive train components and it's no wonder that almost every Fox I’ve ever been in is plagued with driveline vibration. Fords answer....well, a well built and balanced driveline and suspension would drive the overall cost of the vehicle up and hurt sales, so....band aid the issue with a big, heavy weight on the pinion to absorb vibration and call it "good enough".
I'm not saying removing it makes the problem go away any point. I'm saying that at some point, that band aid won't address the problem any longer and one should look into other area's to correct the issue.

 

[stang&2Birds]

bla, bla, bla

IMHO, people ignore anything other than:
"THE FOLLOWING RICER MOD WILL GAIN YOU 500HP, 200MPG, AND REDUCE YOUR QTR MILE TIME BY 20SECONDS".

Fact of life.


WARNING!
DO NOT READ THE FOLLOWING ARTICLE! IT WILL FRY YOUR BRAIN!
DO NOT SPEND 15 MINS TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE FOLLOWING ARTICLE!!!
INSTEAD, SPEND 20+ HOURS ARGUING PURE AND TOTAL BS ON THE FORUMS!
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page17.shtml

 

[Gearbanger 101]

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page17.shtml

You do realize that this article just proved my point and backed up everything I said, right?

 

[stang&2Birds]

You do realize that this article just proved my point and backed up everything I said, right?

I was nice and edited out most of my initial reply.
I thought that I left enough to make my view obvious. Clearly, I didn't.

Here's part of my orig post:
=========
So, yes, remove the cost adding and weight adding part on your LOW COST Mustang! IGNORE that the Fox Mustang was made to be LOW COST, with 4-lugs to REDUCE COST and weight, etc.

Yup, the Ford Engineers are clueless idiots.
=========

 

[stang&2Birds]

BTW, no easy way to cut and paste from the tccoa.com ******ing flash-based article.
I did try to cut out the paragraph that directly addresses the "mooseballs".

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I was nice and edited out most of my initial reply.
I thought that I left enough to make my view obvious. Clearly, I didn't.

Here's part of my orig post:
=========
So, yes, remove the cost adding and weight adding part on your LOW COST Mustang! IGNORE that the Fox Mustang was made to be LOW COST, with 4-lugs to REDUCE COST and weight, etc.

Yup, the Ford Engineers are clueless idiots.
=========

You could have left it in if you'd liked. It's not a whole lot different than what I said. If there aren't any vibration issues with it off, then leave it off. As I stated, and you confirmed these cars were put together with spit and bubble gum. If he's swapping out to higher numerically gears, then the driveshaft speed increases, as does drive train resonance and vibration. A better way of controlling vibration would be to address the rest of the drive train (IE the driveshaft). If you'll check my post recent post history, you'll see that I'm currently in the process of fixing driveline vibration issues of my own.....with an aluminum driveshaft...just as it's suggested in the article.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...star-aluminum-driveshaft.854763/#post-8599851

I really don't see the argument here?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I did try to cut out the paragraph that directly addresses the "mooseballs".

Interesting terminology for it.

 

[stang&2Birds]

I really don't see the argument here?

I agree with you.
But, more so, I think that people should leave it on - unless they have a 100% pure quarter-mile car (weight is more important at that point).

Just because people "don't feel or hear a problem", does not mean that there isn't a problem.

However, at the same time, we are not talking about people using a Fox as a daily driver driving 15K miles a year.

Considering how many miles really drive their Fox Stangs, and the age of the components anyway, it likely won't make any real difference. Heck, if the u-joints go, who can really say if it's from the beat-up body/components, or if it's because someone removed the rear-axle damper?
IMHO, people can leave the axle damper on, or take it off.

However, if people really want to know what it does, and why it's there, then I care that people get the correct information. IMHO, after that, it's up to each individual to decide what to do with their car.

Interesting terminology for it.

That was the common term used for the axle damper back in the 90's.

 

[Mary brown]

a great site,many useful information!

 

[stykthyn]

Fwiw when I swapped rear ends the new unit didn't have the weight and I haven't noticed any real difference. Not saying a vibration isn't there but I can't feel it.

 

[pissedoff92]

gearbanger yes I am throwing in frpp 4.10's thanks for the answers and debate haha

 

[Blandnuts]

Have you any data to disprove my point?

Hey buddy, don't get your panties in a wad. You stated facts and I asked for the data. Thought you might of had some data that would of been beneficial to other members...guess not.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

My panties are not in a wad. You sounded as thought you were trying to be condescending in your post. If you’re saying that wasn’t your intention, then I apologize. As for the data. Grab a hold of your shifter at highway speeds, and feel for yourself. If it shakes your fillings loose, or you can't make out objects in your rear view mirror, and the rest of your driveline components are in good shape, then there's a good bet that the "dog bone" is no longer doing it's job....take a look at the article Stang&2Birds posted above. That will contain all of the data and formula for calculating your own critical driveshaft RPM and what should be done to control it that you should need.