Is there anybody local (Portland) who can burn custom Predator tunes?

[Rootus]

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[Rootus]

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[Jon]

One thing that would be very handy when tuning on your car is having your own wideband. It'll save you money in the long run. We've been selling a bunch of the www.widebandcommander.com widebands. They have a simple sweeping gauge and you can data log. You'll see more cool features if you look at their website. Just something to think about.

 

[duner]

Man, Ed, you sure are doing a lot of smack talking lately. Little man syndrome?

Dave

 

[duner]

Just something to think about.

This is the safe way to do it. I know how expensive these engines are however, the wideband commander is freaking expensive.

So you guys aren't making tunes for the Predator yet either huh?

Two hi-po Mustang shops in town, lots of Cobras running around and neither have the ability to write custom Predator tunes.

 

[Rootus]

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[The Factor]

Man, Ed, you sure are doing a lot of smack talking lately. Little man syndrome?

Dave

 

[Jon]

Duner: we can do the Predator tunes.

Rootus: I don't want to break the Stangnet rules by posting too much about selling stuff. Their rules are pretty lame when it comes to talking about local shops. Give me a call at the shop or email me and we'll talk. So far we have not had one of them fail under continuous use. What causes widebands to fail is running the car without the wideband being powered up.

 

[Rootus]

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[Jon]

Yep, they fit perfect in an autometer pod. In fact, the gauge is made by Autometer. If we only install the wideband we typically use the steering column pod and if we do 2 or 3 gauges then we use the pillar pod.

 

[Skoobie]

As far as tuning goes, you need the whole car, to make sure it took correctly and to test drive it. That would be more if you were burning a very basic chip, just to disable a feature or make light changes, the best option is to drag chung to the dyno and make him burn a custom chip based on the dyno numbers and the A/F. You will get the most out of it that way. Hard to put a number to it, all cars differ so much, but it is rare to come back without making a double digit improvment over where it was without the chip.

Im fairly ignorant when it comes to 'tuning'. My concept of tuning is changing spark plugs, checking the TPS voltage, slapping it on the ass and sending the car on its mary way. That being said; is it worth it to 'have your car tuned' at a shop if your not running any forced induction? What kind of price range are you looking at to have it professionally done? How often do you need it? Meening is it something that 'wears off' as you put more miles on the car? Ok newb tuning questions done

 

[gospeedgo]

If you car is fairly stock, you will not gain much. In fact, you should probably spend money elsewhere. The more mods you make, the more a chip is valuable. Some years respond better to a chip as well. Like a fox body chip wont do much for you, and they are sometimes finiky. A 96-newer allows more control, but you need to "need" the changes that are being made. On the newer cars yet, the first changes are usually to disable downstream o2's for catless h/x pipes, and to turn off limiters. Cars that have turbo(s) or blowers will pretty much need a chip and then to be tuned on the dyno to get everything right on the air/fuel. If you took a supercharger kit, installed it, and used their chip, for example....and then had a chip custom burned for you on the dyno, for YOUR car specifically, you should see some good gains in HP. We generally order the kits without the generic chip, so we can provide a custom chip for that very reason. As for N/A applications, there are still alot of things that are involved in tuning, but timing and fuel adjustments are the keys. Tuning on a dyno will ensure you have the correct A/F. Price range varies by the shop. When do you need to be re-tuned? Its not like a tune-up, it only needs to be done when there is a problem, or something in the system has changed.

 

[Skoobie]

Well in the 5.0 Tech section I've got a thread going that involves an idle problem. At first I though it was a vac problem but now Im not sure. The car is moderatly modified N/A(see my garage, basically non-stock from the heads up with an E-cam). When I got the car is had a nice smooth lope to the idle. The only thing Ive done to the car is add a CAI, cap, rotor, plugs, and a 3G alt. Now the idle seems to cycle between a smooth lope and a shuddery idle then back again. Cycle maybe lasts 10-20 sec? Not sure on that. Anywho my next recourse if I cant find a vac leak is to have it tuned. I just dont want to spend the money if its gonna make little or no differance

 

[gospeedgo]

Got the defrost on?

Tuning is not a tune-up.
You cant "tune" out a problem. You need to find the problem first. If the problem has gotten worse, and you havent been tweaking on it or adding stuff, you have a legitimate concern that you need to fix. If you had just installed something and then it started acting funny, that would be different.

 

[Skoobie]

Ahh thats the answer I was looking for Still wish I had an idea about what was going on though Assuming I fix the problem what kind of benifits would I get from a pro tune with the mods Im sporting?

 

[gospeedgo]

.....what kind of benifits would I get from a pro tune with the mods Im sporting?

Hard to say. It really depends on the tuner and how conservative they are. Or how much they know about what they are doing. Some tuners are simply tuning GODS and some are far from it.

 

[Jon]

Ahh thats the answer I was looking for Still wish I had an idea about what was going on though Assuming I fix the problem what kind of benifits would I get from a pro tune with the mods Im sporting?

Fox body era cars don't respond as well to chip tuning as OBDII cars. If you have an adj. fuel pressure regulator and a timing light you should be able to get your car pretty well dialed in (as long as parts are installed correctly and it's been tuned up recently).

 

[WaterPog]

I wonder, though, how long a wideband O2 will last when used full time?

Remember the Wideband sensors were originally designed for OEM use and then ported over to the aftermarket, the NTK sensor was originally used in a Honda application and the new Bosch sensors are used in production VW's and others. Their durability should be at least as good as a standard O2 sensor, and the Bosch sensors that most of the new systems use are far less $$ than the old L1H1 NTK sensor that the first systems (FAST included) used.

 

[jordanvraptor]

That'll mean Ed will be stepping up to the Whipple

Guess that means I'll have to go TURBO...

 

[Jon]

Guess that means I'll have to go TURBO...

NOW you're talking!