Issue with DCC FK35
- Thread starter blackcloud50
- Start date
Black Sun 5.0
Founding Member
baskin said:
The link overheated and melted. I then replaced it with a 30 amp inline fuse that lasted about 20 minutes till the fuse popped. Only the high speed is connected.
What I did notice is that after the fusible link melted (b4 replacing with inline fuse) I was far away from home...So I connected the wire directly to the battery but fan still wouldnt turn on. I had car towed to my friends shop where he ran direct power to the fan and it was working fine. He said he touch the temp probe connection at the controller and then the fan started to work.
What size fusible link or fuse should be inline to battery?
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Nick, are you refering to my thread? In the end, it was my fault that the control failed. There wouldn't have been anything wrong with my controller except I used a bad alternator (should have tested it before I put it on) and it cooked the box. I take all of the blame for that... Baskin's controller is still top notch and he went out of his way to help me. LXwants 12's was also operator error if I read that thread right...
lxwants12's
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- Sep 22, 2004
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yea mine is operator error i guess since i didnt specify that its working...i am just starting to think its more of a hassle.....and if he had it on his car for 8 months...then i dunno if i wanna keep mine and not have dependibilty......its an expensive unit.....and i bought it instead of another adjust. temp controller that i know work well for less then half the cost.....so im gonna order the filter this weekend and connect it as baskin said and if it doesnt work out for me then i will ask Baskin for a refund...
Black cloud; a 30 A fuse won't work, a fuse has a negative temperature coefficient of -6% for every 18 degrees F, so the 30A fuse is good for less thqan 20A @180F, If you have a kragens or checker auto there, they have the 14 gauge link. Fold the end of the 14 gauge over so that it will fit correctly in the 12 gauge splice, and you should be good to go.
A fusible link or a fuse will protect wiring and that's about it.
A fusible link or a fuse will protect wiring and that's about it.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Mine was an overvoltage not a overamperage. All of my wiring is fine, the fuse-link is still intact, but the alternator supplied too much voltage for 2 weeks straight. I am kind of glad that I had the failure, bucause it pointed out a problem that I wouldn't have checked on my own (bad practice)
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
The spec is 13.8 - 14.4... I was seeing 14.8/14.9 so i took it in for testing. The regulator was faulty so I'm thinking that the warmer my car got the worse the regulation was on the alternator voltage...
The day of the failure: Everything went bad after a 1/2 hour drive home from work. It's kind of ironic, that a guy in a black aero nose GT was showing off next to me on the way home and I thought his car sounded really bad. See what I get for frowning on another guys Mustang! My alternator was getting back at me...
The day of the failure: Everything went bad after a 1/2 hour drive home from work. It's kind of ironic, that a guy in a black aero nose GT was showing off next to me on the way home and I thought his car sounded really bad. See what I get for frowning on another guys Mustang! My alternator was getting back at me...
Frank; there's over a thousand units out there. There are three negative posts, this one, which can be resolved by replacing the fuse with a link. A car with a bad alternator, which is really no ones fault other than the manufacturer of the alternator, and yours, which is missing a necessary accessory.
Now, if you ask srothfuss how I dealt with his unit, he'll tell you that I looked at his install, told him that the symptoms indicated a voltage breakdown, but that I saw nothing wrong with his install,. I then told him that it could possibly be my fault, and offered a new unit byway of express mail.
I can also tell you that from this, all of the units shipped this week were specifically tested for voltage breakdown, that destructive tests have been done on the part's most likely to break down, and that I found all of these parts and units to be well in spec, with a breakdown voltage of over 30V. I told him that I would run his new unit over a 24 hr period before shipping it. I've gone further than that, what I've done instead is tested an un-potted unit as if it a prototype, in that I've not only checked overall performance, but also verified on this and nine other units that all of the internal circuit voltages are correct..
In my opinion, failure rate is certainly important, but what is just as important is how a vender deals with these. Make no mistake, sooner or later I will have a or some failures, everyone does. Now, you can either see srothfuss’ unit as a negative, or consider how I’ve dealt with what was essentially a false alarm as a positive. I don’t know of any other vender who takes the time to put in this amount of effort in order to prevent field failures.
The irony here is that neither srothfuss or myself tried to lay blame on the other person, and in fact both assumed responsibility when it was in the end neither one of our faults, while poopdawg, who has never owned or even seen a unit is on the sidelines pointing his finger. If his opinion means more to you than what’s stated by the people involved, then by all means, pack your unit up and send it back.
Now, if you ask srothfuss how I dealt with his unit, he'll tell you that I looked at his install, told him that the symptoms indicated a voltage breakdown, but that I saw nothing wrong with his install,. I then told him that it could possibly be my fault, and offered a new unit byway of express mail.
I can also tell you that from this, all of the units shipped this week were specifically tested for voltage breakdown, that destructive tests have been done on the part's most likely to break down, and that I found all of these parts and units to be well in spec, with a breakdown voltage of over 30V. I told him that I would run his new unit over a 24 hr period before shipping it. I've gone further than that, what I've done instead is tested an un-potted unit as if it a prototype, in that I've not only checked overall performance, but also verified on this and nine other units that all of the internal circuit voltages are correct..
In my opinion, failure rate is certainly important, but what is just as important is how a vender deals with these. Make no mistake, sooner or later I will have a or some failures, everyone does. Now, you can either see srothfuss’ unit as a negative, or consider how I’ve dealt with what was essentially a false alarm as a positive. I don’t know of any other vender who takes the time to put in this amount of effort in order to prevent field failures.
The irony here is that neither srothfuss or myself tried to lay blame on the other person, and in fact both assumed responsibility when it was in the end neither one of our faults, while poopdawg, who has never owned or even seen a unit is on the sidelines pointing his finger. If his opinion means more to you than what’s stated by the people involved, then by all means, pack your unit up and send it back.
lxwants12's
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- Sep 22, 2004
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ok there Baskin relax im not blaming you at all....just that i have had nothin but problems with mine...did i ever say your customer service isnt good...no..you have pm me and helped me and i appreciate it, like i said before i will order this filter, if it doesnt work then i will ask you for a refund. I am not a person of conflict and dont expect it from any1 towards me on the site or i wouldnt be on here and dealing with that ****. I, like you do not have time for bull****
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